prusa y axis rattle 3d models

Now let me explain the assembly of this device, first, there is the Y-axis frame mount which is fixed to the frame below the y-carriage and what really secures it in place is a nut screwed onto the threaded rod, and it also gets tightened by that...

I swapped out the i3V 8" wooden switch holder for a custom-made one, allowing me to fully utilize my Y axis's maximum travel range. This upgraded end stop bracket empowers the Y rollers to reach their full extent, granting me a much wider working...

This is a modifcation of prusa i3 y motor support by uwd888, published Jul 25, 2014 the previous version does not fit the new Prusa i3 MK2 version from March 2017 Also this version has the advantage of not requiring the removal of the lower motor...

I encountered issues with my Y-axis belt skipping steps on GT2 gears, prompting me to create a solution that resolved the problem effectively. ...To achieve this, I utilized an 8mm x 22mm x 7mm 608ZZ bearing and reinforced its position with a sturdy zip...

Another modification of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153851 I've made several derivatives of the original idea by diabliyo, it's a good approach. ...This one puts the limit switch closer to the centre of the machine, stopping the Y axis sooner.

Replacement parts for the Y Axis mount of a Geeetech Pro W. Print these with PETG or ABS to get maximum stability. ... Not tested yet, but nearly a 1 to 1 replica, holes should fit, the corners are a little bit different...

... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153851 - my modification of diabliyo's innovative design is really taking shape now. ...In this latest version, the limit switch is positioned closer to the heart of the machine, significantly curtailing Y axis motion.

Determined To Get Rid of Y-axis Lash For Good, I Set Out to Design a Belt Tensioner to Replace Those Flimsy M3 Nuts. It Took Me Several Hours to Figure it All Out, but I Finally Got There. And Let Me Tell You - It Was Worth Every Minute. With My...

This is yet another Y-bearing clamp specifically designed for the Prusa I3 steel printer. I created it so that my heatbed plate would be perfectly centered, thanks to its self-centering mechanism. ...The clamps fit very snugly, likely requiring some...

... fix addresses the misalignment problems that certain MK2 printers experience with the power supply unit, causing it to not align properly with the PSU. ... You can modify your version at: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/h6lcYaUagGD-prusa-psu-y-block

The advantage of this design is that the linear bearings won't hit the backplate of the frame anymore to mark the back end of the Y axis. Instead, the belt holder under the Y carriage will hit the "STOP" part of the Y motor mount which puts less...

This is a custom Y endstop designed for the Sunhokey Prusa i3 acrylic 3D printer. I created this modification to lower my endstop, which involved recreating and modifying the original design to move the circuit board down. The original endstop...

... apart. The orange part was printed using a DC motor on x-axis but a stepper on y-axis. This is the type of motor used: Mitsumi 448P R-AB phase encoder encodes tacho motor speed disk DC3V, 24V, 5V, 12V. ...Once installed, this is the system running:

I'm not a fan of zip ties on my printer either, which is why I took matters into my own hands and came up with some custom mounts for the Y-axis - a crucial component of any reliable printer setup. ...The bolt holes in these mounts are approximately 2...

Prusa i3 Y LM8UU bushing. M3 nut and bolt are needed. Hole spacing is a crucial 20mm apart. No ziptie required. Printed with reliable PLA. Update September 27, 2016: Dimensional drawings were added to answer critical questions. Update August 14,...

Human engineers have designed specialized blocks to accommodate the longer LM8LUU (8x15x45mm) linear bearings on the Prusa i3 aluminum Y-carriage. This innovative design features two M3 recessed screw holes, spaced precisely 20mm apart, with a...

...The MK2 frame's Y axis extrusions are 20mm shorter and the bearings on the left side of the bed move very close to the frame in order to reach the entire 210mm print surface. This wasn't possible with JuanPuchol's design so I decided to make my own.

The MK2 frame's Y axis extrusions are 20mm shorter and the bearings on the left side of the bed move very close to the frame in order to reach the entire 210mm print surface. This wasn't possible with JuanPuchol's design so I decided to make my...

The MK2 frame has shorter Y-axis extrusions and the bearings on the left side of the bed are very close to the frame, which limits the print surface to 210mm. This issue made me decide to create my own mod. In essence, I moved the left side MGN12C...

The orange part was printed using a DC motor on the x-axis but a stepper on the y-axis. ... Here's the type of motor I used:...

(Use washers with the 18mm long screws otherwise they will hit the frame)6x M3 nuts--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Changelog:V2: 28.02.2023 after countless requests I...

This is a clever way to adjust tension on my y-belt with minimal fuss, requiring no new holes in my Prusa i3 Hesine frame.\nA bit excessive, I admit, but it works wonders and was an absolute blast to create!\nI printed the entire piece in one go,...

I managed to repair my Y axis belt bearing holder with a makeshift solution - holding the bearings in place with a piece of metal while printing this new design. Compared to the original holder on my printer, this one is a significant improvement. It...

Wanting to put all of my electronics below the Y-carriage, I found myself putting wiring dangerously close to the Y-axis stepper pulley and drive belt. To solve the problem, and retain the same print bed height, I relocated the stepper motor and...

After installing the Y frame bearings mount (http://www.thingiverse.com/make:218651), I had to adjust the belt holder height to match the new belt position. I borrowed an idea for belt tensioning from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:745934 and used...

The Y-axis motor mount component failed on my HICTOP printer. The motor was slightly swaying back and forth while printing, causing the belt to become loose and skip steps in the process. This resulted in a misaligned Y-axis position. I removed the...

I decided to relocate the stepper motor and adjust the belt plane to eliminate a dangerous setup that put wiring too close to the pulley and drive belt on my Y-axis. To retain print bed height, I replaced the original bearing setup in the new...

I encountered some challenges with the design: When I installed the y-axis on my new MK3s, I noticed that it was rubbing against the frame. A photo of the issue is attached. After mastering OpenSCAD, I figured out how to tweak the design to resolve...

This item allows you to press-fit sleeve or slide bearings for use with the Prusa MK3 y-carriage. The largest bearing it can support is 15 mm by 25.7 mm (outer diameter x length). Use it only with sleeve or slide bearings that are not enclosed, as...

With this stronger Y axis made of Threaded rod this is no longer the case. It also helps eliminate vibrations. 4x pieces of 7 1/4" long 8mm or 5/16" diameter threaded rod are needed. 20 Nuts that match the fit of your 7 1/4" long threaded rod must...