prusa y axis rattle 3d models

This belt tensioner is designed specifically for the Y-Axis idler on a MakerFarm Prusa i3v printer model. It has been successfully used on my own 10-inch version of the printer but I'm confident it will work seamlessly with other models as well. The...

The model this remix is based on holds the bearings much better, but it doesn't fit in a number of places on the Prusa Mini.On the left side, the extrusion is too close and on the right side both the Z-axis bracket and the Y-axis motor are in the...

Tired of attaching a paper endstop flag to the y-axis, I designed an endstop flag for optocouplers as a solution.

Initially, adjusting the y-axis belt tension involved flipping the entire printer over and manipulating the cable attachment points to tighten the belt. This process quickly became frustrating. I discovered another similar tensioner, part #807702,...

To adjust the y-axis belt tension, the original setup required flipping the entire printer onto its side and manipulating cable attachment points to tighten the belt. This process quickly became tiresome. To address this issue, I adapted a similar...

I designed a new Y-axis tensioner for my Geetech Prusa i3, which was previously plagued by belt slippage due to poor tensioning. The old design relied on drilling holes in the belt and screwing it into an aluminium block, resulting in uneven belt...

This is a modification of prusa i3 y motor support by uwd888, published Jul 25, 2014. The previous version does not fit the new Prusa i3 MK2 version from March 2017. Also, this version has the advantage of not requiring the removal of the lower motor...

On the HICTOP Prusa I3 printer, the Y-Axis rods are supported by a couple of acrylic blocks. The tolerances on the blocks are very poor, causing then to stress the rod (and the bearings) or to shatter (as mine did).</p> <p>You can easily replace...

Important adjustments: * For better resolution in our 1/16th microstep mode (steps/mm approximately), try increasing your Y-axis steps to about 400 per millimeter. However, reducing to 1/4 microsteps might be more beneficial as it increases torque...

I designed the Endstop Y axis specifically to mount directly onto an M10 threaded rod.\n\nInstructions: Print the Endstop Y axis at a moderate pace of 0.2 layer thickness, filling each layer with a dense infill percentage of 30%. ...Secure it firmly...

So this new version has some tabs attached that fit the front and back panels, keeping the bumper aligned perfectly and out of the way of the heatbed.Note that the bumpers only make sense in combination with my Y-axis bearing holders (see here) or...

This is a remix of the Prusa MINI Y Axis Linear Rails Mod by Ryper3D that I re-created from scratch from the original Prusa MINI Printable Parts with the following differences:No Ryper3D logo. This was the main motivation for remixing the...

The Makergear Prusa's XY axis endstop STL file eluded me; thus, I created a substitute when my original broke. ...Sharing it publicly for others who might face similar predicaments.

This is a Y Axis End Stop for the "Original" Prusa i3 designed by Prusa Research. The kit enables you to secure the switch to the 8mm round bar using a more robust method than zip ties, thereby eliminating any potential damage from excessive...

This is a replacement Y Axis Bearing Rod support for Prusa i3 Aluminum extrusion printers. It improves over stock versions by having a ridge that tightly aligns with the aluminum extrusion and having a bearing rod clamping feature. There are right...

Situation: Force applied by the motor onto the bed plate left bearing when reaching the end stop makes an undesired momentum, causing after days of print, play into the bearings and plate support.Remedy: Adding an end stop on the Y right shaft at the...

The design should also work with the standard bearings. I did have some issues with the original design: When I installed the y-axis on my new MK3s I noticed that it rubbed against the frame. Picture of it is attached.<br/> After learning how...

I had to free up some room on my Y-axis, so I shortened the idler holder. ...My belt tensioner was already mounted on the build table, so I didn't need it attached to the idler.

This kit enhances the precision of the Y-axis, although it operates at a slower pace. ...It's specifically tailored to fit a 6mm polycabonate frame, but can be effortlessly adapted to suit steel or aluminum frames as well.

... The genius Taurus Y axis: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3269389 I built it with this super MGN12 solution: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3847800 It probably works with LM8UU bearings too, but I haven't tried it that way. ... Blog Instagram

... have that issue. This design allows you to add adjustability to your 3D printer's Y-axis by mounting it on the outside of a P3Steel frame or on the inside as shown in the picture. ... You can attach this endstop using two M3 bolts and two M3 nuts.

Holding the nut in place under the Y-Axis corner frees up your hands to easily make adjustments and test the Y-Axis's level. To continue: Print 2, 3 or 4, depending on how many corners you're leveling by tightening the bolts. Remove the nut, attach...

I've created this new y-axis clamp to replace the broken original one without needing to disassemble the entire main frame. This versatile tool can also be used to fix the z-axis if needed. ... To make it, you'll need: * 3 M4 nuts * 1 M4x25mm screw * 2...

This is a modification of the original prusa i3 y motor support designed by uwd888, published on July 25, 2014. The previous model does not match the new Prusa i3 MK2 version released in March 2017. ... Additionally, this updated design eliminates the...

This is a remix of Grégoire Saunier's original Y axis rod holders for the Prusa Bear upgrade. Although using zip ties to secure smooth rods is perfectly in line with reprap aesthetics, I personally felt it took away from the beauty of the Bear kit.

I axis tensioner for Prusa i3 needs two 624Z 13x5mm bearings and two M4x25 screws use nyloc nut on the tension screw version 2 only uses one bearing regular M4 washers are a good alternative no raft or support is needed print at 0.2 mm resolution...

#Cons:# - Unable to home in Z with the probe, Have to move manually to Z0 and tell it with G92 Z0 (for now) - Y dimension gets stretched the higher Z gets, which causes under extrusion in Y, not in X - Bridging is difficult as it is a curve now...

#Cons:# - Unable to home in Z with the probe, Have to move manually to Z0 and tell it with G92 Z0 (for now) - Y dimension gets stretched the higher Z gets, which causes under extrusion in Y, not in X - Bridging is difficult as it is a curve now...

My take on a beefed up Y-axis motor mount with built-in end stop. Requires: 1x M3 x 10 (reuse from stock) 2x M3 x 25 (from included spares bag) 2x M3 lock nuts (reuse from stock) Recommended material: PETG or ABS. NOTE: The picture is of an earlier...

The innovative Taurus Y axis: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3269389 I assembled it with this high-performance MGN12 solution: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3847800 It likely functions with LM8UU bearings too, but I haven't tested it that...