prusa y axis rattle 3d models

RepRapDiscount EndStop Support Y-Axis For Prusa i3.

This Prusa Bear uses the MK3S's print component.

Prusa I3 2017 Back Motor Mount for FLSUN.

I build a Linear bearing PTFE Teflon Tube for my Y axis. This is what I use instead of the original SC8UU metal bearing. It operates very quietly and slides extremely well. Weighing only 7.6 grams, it's incredibly light. The used PTFE tube has an...

This is a remix of the front part of changfrancis's Y Axis corner block replacement. I adored the idea and these parts make mk2s much easier to assemble. However, I noticed too much springiness when tightening the front part and this caused...

Meanwhile, the screw that secures the sledge would collide with the pulley on the Y motor, preventing it from reaching its end stop. To address these issues, I trimmed 1mm off the block and cover to create more clearance. Additionally, I shortened...

I used the same dimensions as the half bear, made the drill holes accordingly for bolting the 2040 extrusion together.I'm not trying to build an original prusa mk2. Just customizing it as I go.</p><p>Note: &nbsp;I had a tilting &nbsp;frame from the...

Half bear upgrade for the Prusa i3 mk2 mk2s frame. I bought the frame and the carriage, so this is a build from scratch using remixes of the half bear printed parts. It doesn't require drilling into the frame, and it squares up nicely when bolted...

I used the same dimensions as the half bear, made the drill holes accordingly for bolting the 2040 extrusion together.I'm not trying to build an original prusa mk2. Just customizing it as I go.Note:  I had a tilting  frame from the original screws...

Put it back on it's feet and test If you are like me, you may want to make some better spool holders next Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: Original Prusa i3 MK2 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.3mm Infill: 50% How I Designed This...

... 1.1. Update 1.2 includes the X axis fix at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1714772. ...Print settings: Printer brand - RepRap, printer model - Geeetech Pro C and Pro X, rafts - no, supports - no, resolution - 0.2mm, infill - 40% for added strength.

After a friend and myself found we were having to change the Geetech bearings way to often and having some sets fail after a few prints we thought it was time to fix the problem once an for all. After googling the issue we couldn't find others with...

It works for both x and y axes, although on the x axis I lose about ten millimeters of build space since it's bigger than the original. Once assembled, it can be a bit tricky to take apart again, but you can lift the pin using a small flat...

I chose to incorporate the printed y-axis designed by pcky, which can be found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2836470. After experimenting with several iterations of "squash ball feet" for sound isolation on my Mk2.5 Full Bear, I finally...

This belt holder is designed with 24 mm distance between print plate and belt. ...I use this thing in my Prusa I3 custom.

As I wasn't completely satisfied with the existing Y-axis rods, I decided to switch over to MGN15(C) linear rails. This upgrade should be compatible with all Bear upgrade printers but I've only tested it on my MK3S and now I'm really happy. This...

I needed a better bushing holder for my Prusa i3 mk2 clone, but the ones provided on the Haribo Prusa GitHub page were either too loose or too tight. So I designed this one from scratch. It may look similar to other bushing holders, and yes, I...

When I put the new motor mount on my Prusa i3 rebuild, the motor started pulling sharply from the belt tension and the end stop wasn't lined up just right. ...So, I decided to modify the motor mount design, adding a standalone motor support and an...

This model is intended to fit Prusa beds that are non-standard, usually the ones that come in clone kits. They are longer, however they still work as normal with most Drylins/LM8UUs.</p><p>I printed and designed this with ABS so tolerances may vary...

The remixed part has smaller holes for 3mm screws to be able to use the screws coming with the printer. ...Print in PETg and just replace the original wheel holder - works like a charm and it's so easy to exactly adjust the Y-belt - great design!

I recently upgraded my Prusa i3 printer, but found that the original holder of steel shafts was too unstable, so I designed and printed my own custom holder to stabilize it during printing sessions. Since normal prints weren't giving me enough...

Remix of a sleek design from Mimisb13 that eliminates the need for U-bolts holding the carriage to linear bearings on a Prusa MK3. Over-tightening can cause U-bolts to crush linear bearings and score rods, limiting their usability. This design helps...

This belt holder is designed with 24 mm of space between the print plate and the belt, perfect for my Prusa I3 custom build.\nPrint Settings\nPrinter: \n CoLiDo 3D Printer DIY\n \n Rafts: \n No\n \n Supports: \n No\n \n Resolution: \n 0.2 mm\n \n...

• Two original y mounts broke on the Max Micron: one was poorly printed, and the other cracked due to over-tightening the pulley nut. • To strengthen the mount, I redesigned it with rounded edges and a larger pulley bolt/nut. • The design features an...

... redesigned the motor mount again to minimize the flat section as much as possible. The outcomes of these redesigns are presented here, showcasing how the bearing now comes into contact with the end of its travel exactly as Prusa intended.

... to both the aluminum and acrylic models. Mine is an aluminum model with some acrylic components, I created this just in case something went wrong. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:953556 has all of the other parts except for the Z axis top mount.

Broken 2 stock y mounts for the Max Micron, the first was poorly printed due to thin walls, and the second failed due to over-tightening the pulley holding nut, which cracked the support. The design should be stronger than it is. To address this...

... Broken two stock y mounts for the Max Micron, one due to cheap printing that resulted in excessive thinness, and the second from over-tightening the pulley holding nut, which caused it to squeeze and crack. However, the design should be stronger.

Update 3/10/18 - I recently checked the motor mount in a 3D model of the Prusa i3 mk3 with R2 components by jzkmath and was pleased to see that it still works beautifully, correcting any misalignment inherent in the stock mount. I've noticed many...

Compatible with 8mm threaded rods and bearings.