prusa open idler 3d models

The MMU idler door for the MMUs is tricky to open due to the lever used to activate the sensor clashing with the extruder body. This mod uses an 8mm M3 screw and bolt to disengage the lever from the idler door. To open the door, simply unscrew the...

... In this revised idler door design, the gap between the housing and idler door has been increased, which enhances the potential for a self-cleaning mechanism (though not entirely solving the issue). No adverse effects have been encountered thus far.

In this iteration of the idler door the gap between the housing and the idler door is increased, hence the possibility of some self-cleaning mechanism increased (increased, not solved). No negative effects were experienced so far. Debris falling...

In my experience, depending on the quality of the filament, every 2000-4000 filament changes it is necessary to remove debris and filament dust in order to have the Prusa working properly. In this iteration of the idler door the gap between the...

It features: - A 40x40x20mm fan mounted without compromising print volume - An improved cooler heatsink for the hotend due to enhanced airflow and increased pressure - A cooler extruder motor as some air flows into the idler compartment - No heat...

I built another idler for the axis and Prusa i3 rework printers. The old one broke, and I was getting lazy about taking out all the pink rod to put in a new one. Plus, the belt wasn't sitting well on the tumbler, so I made an idler with double...

The Prusa i3 model Y features an idler wheel system with M8 thread and uses M3 screws for assembly.

Updated Idler design for MMU2S

We've engineered a more stable idler for the Einstein variant (M10 threaded rods) of the Prusa-i3. All existing idlers suffer from two primary issues: they're mounted on a single rod, causing rotation and wobble; and since they mount on the upper...

This is a reverse engineered Prusa MMU2 idler with a few changes. As I've cracked 2 of the original ones and had some issues with idler bearings being a little too loose, I've drawn this in Fusion basing on original. Fit and size are the same. The...

Prusa i3 Y idler Upgrade Enhances Tension on Y Axis. ... Materials Needed for Assembly: * M6 Nut: 1 Piece * M6 Screw (15mm): 1 Piece * GT2 Pulley with 5mm Diameter Tread: 1 Piece * M2.5 Nut: 1 Piece * M2.5 Screw (20mm): 1 Piece

Updated Prusa MMU2S

After many years of printing I noticed my Y axis idler pulley starting to click and upon further investigation I noticed that the inner race had come out of round (or issues with the sealed bearings). I decided to do a proper upgrade by changing...

Y-Powered Idle System for Prusa 3D Printers

I suddenly discovered that many people are having my problem so I updated the Prusa part to get it stronger. This design is based on R1 prusa part. Print instructionsI have printed it with PETG 0.20 3 perimeters and 30% fill with Honeycomb 3D...

This is an upgraded Y-Idler tailored specifically for the Original Prusa MK2. The Idler body is now significantly wider to ensure superior lateral stiffness. The head and nut recesses eliminate the need for washers, simplifying assembly and...

This is the X-idler end for the Prusa i3 3D printer, specifically designed for the Geeetech I3 Pro, Pro B and Pro C models.

Hey Everyone, Here's My Conversion for the Y Axis Idler on a Prusa i3 - It's for a 624 Bearing.

This is the upgraded version of the authentic Prusa (ebay) clone Tensioner Idler for both bed and Y Axis, now utilizing 2 conventional ball bearings, along with a bolt and nut sourced from a car battery connector - an industry-standard size that...

The Prusa I3 X-end Idler is featured in this post, which I shared to easily provide the information to someone printing for me. ...Additionally, I noticed a Motor X-end listed, so I added the other required component for balance.

This is a specially designed Z Axis threaded rod idler for the Prusa I3 Rework, carefully crafted to perfectly fit with the original Z axis mounts. To successfully assemble this part, you'll need to print two essential shims that act as an interface...

The original Prusa Iteration 2 X-Idler misaligns the belt with the x-motor pulley. Pictures demonstrate this issue. By modifying the x-idler.scad file's code and adjusting dimensions, I resolved it. The updated code is: translate(v = [18.5, -21.5,...

This is a bespoke Prusa MMU2 idler with some alterations.\r\n\r\nAs I've disassembled 2 of the original ones and encountered some difficulties with idler bearings being slightly too loose, I've designed this in Fusion based on the original. Fit and...

... the MF105ZZ Model, Measuring 5 x 10 x 4 mm, and You Will Need Two of These. Print Settings for Optimal Results: Printer: Prusa I3 Rafts: Not Particularly Relevant Supports: Irrelevant to This Project Infill: A Density of 25-40 is Recommended

Here are the key modifications I made compared to the original MK3 idler door: * Switched to slide-in holes for the shaft instead of through-holes * Added a cutout for extra clearance around the bondtech gear part (*) * Expanded the opening to...

Modifications compared to stock MK3 idler door: - Slide in holes for the shaft instead of through hole - Cutout to have more clearance for the bondtech gear part () - Wider opening to use DIN125A nylon washers () - Cuts for nyloc nuts (*) *) These...

Small, nimble feet barely touch the ground as the human idler speeds effortlessly through life.

To assemble this idler, you'll need: 1 x 4mm bolt 1 x 4mm nut 1 x 5mm bolt 1 x 5mm nut 2 x 5mm washers 1 x 605Z bearing Place the bearing between the two washers and then insert it into the idler. Next, screw the 5mm bolt through and secure it with...

One 605Z bearing Place the bearing snugly between two of the washers before carefully inserting it into the idler mechanism. Next, secure the bearing firmly in place by screwing a 5mm bolt through it and tighten it with an opposing nut on the other...

The axis of the original idler, which is black, is positioned about 1 millimeter higher than that of the extruder. This discrepancy can cause feeding issues with very pliable materials. ...I replicated the design and adjusted the ball bearing's position...