prusa i3 mk3 z axis calibration 3d models

The original Prusa i3 frame has one major flaw: bed and frame are not effectively joined together, causing movement between layers and lowering print accuracy.\nTo boost stability, try this super cheap solution:\nA simple attachment of the main frame...

This modification to the nut requires 4 bolts.\nTested on THSL-300-8D,\nReducing the inner diameter slightly strengthens it,\nThis model also features two optional bearing retainers for mounting atop the Z-axis.\nThe primary difference from the...

My Z-axis pins are slightly off-kilter, causing them to rub against the wood as they rotate, producing a creaking noise and potentially compromising XY precision. A small adjustment would likely resolve this issue. I've added a tiny modification to...

Sometimes when the Z-axis moves swiftly downward, a crucial bolt on the threaded rod escapes its holder, resulting in an urgent need for correction. ...The proposed remedy centers around...

I adjust my Z-axis pins to remove slight misalignment. Consequently, they rotated with a noticeable friction when in contact with the wooden material, causing an unsettling creaking noise and potentially disrupting my XY accuracy - I still need to...

After a frustrating encounter with my autobedleveling system, I opted to build a highly customizable Z-axis, which has transformed manual bed leveling into a snap – requiring just a few seconds of effort and saving me an enormous amount of time. ...Now...

I'm thrilled to share with you a game-changing Z-axis coupler that seamlessly connects threaded rods and stepper motors. This compact masterpiece measures precisely 5mm in diameter, making it the perfect fit for your printer's needs. Three millimeter...

I made a perfect fit for my Prusa i3 Rework/MK2 Clone an Anti wobble for the Z Axis with a 608zz bearing. Fits perfect! This is can be used on original Prusa parts or prusa i3 rework variants. The center of the bearing and the center of the M8...

I drilled a mounting hole in my existing Z endstop so it can be secured onto the stepper motor plate. To accommodate the limit switch, I had to file a square area on the other side. Using PLA is recommended because it's harder and more stable than...

To do so, I drilled a mounting hole into my existing Z endstop allowing me to securely mount it onto my stepper motor plate without any issues. Since the limit switch had to be positioned on the other side, I was required to file a square area...

Modification of the original Prusa i3 MK3 x-end.scad file for a 5mm lead screw with trapezoidal threading requires some adjustments to ensure proper alignment and functionality. The primary goal is to accommodate the new screw's dimensions while...

I made a Z Axis top for the original prusas or rework, they are exactly 17 mm away from the smooth rod, so be carefull to not use it with printer that use another mesure. ... You will only need an 608zz bearing

Modified Original Prusa i3 MK3/S Y Axis Idler Specially Designed to Fit LDO 2GT 16-Tooth Idler Ensures Smooth Operation with Factory-Toleranced Precision. ...Print with Confidence in PETG, ABS, CFPC, or Any Material with High Glass Bed Transition...

Designed a sleek integration of LED bar mounts directly into the Z-axis tops using Tinkercad's versatile design capabilities.

So, I modified the stock Prusa z-axis-top parts to incorporate a mount for the top webcam. The webcam I use is the Logitech C615, securely attached to the camplate using a camera screw. You can find various versions of these screws on Thingiverse. I...

To make Z-calibration work, you simply need to change your firmware. Since this extruder is taller, I adjusted my z_top holder so that you can use the original firmware without needing to modify it. The printer has passed its self-test and XYZ...

This is a very simple, super fast to print z-axis vibration damper for the original Prusa MK3. The Z-top parts for the MK3 are closed at the top. Still the hole for the z-rods on the top parts are much larger than the Z-rods: this is as per design...

... his cable chain mount modification. ...Since I'm about to add the MMU2 kit to my MK3, the cable chain solution will collide with the MMU, but I wanted to maintain the zip-tie-free and practical design of the original cables mount using standard cables.

Designed for the Logitech C925e camera, but accepts all standard cameramount 1/4-20 hardware on the camera side Bolts to the X Axis with an M3x16 bolt Print Settings Printer Brand: Prusa Printer: I3 MK3SRafts: No Supports: YesResolution: 0.20...

This edit was made to boost Z dimension of the Mk2 to align with the dimensions of Mk3 (25 x 21 x 21).

Replacing old U-bolts with new bearing clamps on the Y-axis is the plan.

Designed for the Logitech C925e camera, but accepts all standard cameramount 1/4-20 hardware on the camera side Bolts to the X Axis with an M3x16 bolt

This dust cover protects the Z-axis mounts with ease. ...It glides smoothly into place from either side, expertly blocking nearly all debris from entering the Z-axis mount compartment.

My take on a beefed up Y-axis motor mount with built-in end stop. Requires: 1x M3 x 10 (reuse from stock) 2x M3 x 25 (from included spares bag) 2x M3 lock nuts (reuse from stock) Recommended material: PETG or ABS. NOTE: The picture is of an earlier...

I encountered some difficulties fine-tuning my X-axis belt tension, which led me to dislike the standard approach used in the printer's design. Consequently, I developed my own customized solution after conducting several trials and refining it...

The new part is the Idler arm file and this is the original thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2990861 The original thing tells you to get a new longer belt, but this idler arm needs an even longer belt which you can find here:...

I'm a huge fan of belt driven Z-Axis, so much that I made one for my own printer (I usually use a modded tevo tarantula). I love it so much that I decided to make one for this wonderful machine! Sadly, I don't own one, so I haven't printed it yet,...

Adjustment Mechanism for Optimizing Z-Axis Scale

With a well-calibrated printer, they will fit like a snug glove, requiring virtually no adjustment. The only supports necessary are those in the centered hole, which is ample for securing the screw heads. These designs were crafted using PETG...

A bit beefier, a lot more robust Z bracket... Not a single bearing in sight, the drive screw hangs loose without any support... ...Same design as before, same functionality, but with a stronger, more substantial component.