prusa hephestos 3d models

I located a problem with the fan cooling down the heatbed, specifically at the corner of the ramps where I was experiencing warping issues. ...To resolve this, I added a shield and the warping disappeared completely.

This is yet another iteration of a RUMBA case, and I've already printed several versions, but I'm still not entirely satisfied. The number of cables that need to be plugged in from all sides is overwhelming. I'm hoping this one will work better. If...

The Z-axis end bracket is secured tightly using fasteners to prevent unwanted movement.

Insert an M8 nut with an 11mm head, measuring exactly 10mm long, into the plastic using a solder iron. If you can't locate one of this precise length, acquire a longer version and trim it down to 10mm, just as I did. Next, drill a 3mm hole in the M10...

I'm working on a revised RUMBA case design. I've printed several iterations, but I'm still not satisfied. The current version has too many cables that need to be plugged in on every side. I'm hoping this updated design will work better. If anyone has...

I'm thrilled to share some improvements I've made on my own. A newly designed top and bottom component have greatly enhanced the stability of the z-axis, completely eradicating issues related to z-axis wobble during print runs. These additions also...

Install the protective element.\nSecurely link the five millimeter LEDs together, side by side, while using a voltage supply set at five volts.\n\n \n \n Steps to Follow\nReplace the security feature with...

Raspberry Pi support built directly into the fan's design. ...Lateral inputs like microUSB and HDMI are currently useless since they're intended for direct pin-to-pin power connections.\r\n\r\nTo utilize the microUSB power plug, consider checking out...

All accolades to Paulo Mariante (Martenai). ...I merely rectified some troublesome model defects and addressed a nagging "initial coating" conundrum.

I'm eager to add an extra level of stability to my frame stabilizer. I've found a clever solution on the Thingiverse platform, and I highly recommend checking it out: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:603953. ...By the way, this is my first-ever...

Attach the main piece to the extruder blower by removing its screw. ...Secure the dial firmly in position using two M3x16 screws and two M3 nuts, then attach the cover piece on top.

This modification builds on the foundation laid by ubit's outstanding work at thingiverse, accessible here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:683604. I've made a significant enhancement to the design by integrating LJC18A3 sensor support seamlessly.

I'm using a LifeCam HD-3000, however we've managed to enable face recognition.

I realized that the fan is effectively cooling the heatbed, specifically in the corners of the ramps where I've noticed warping occurring previously. To eliminate the issue altogether, I added a shield, and fortunately, the warping vanished...

A few strategically placed holes enable users to secure the upper section using cable ties, effectively eliminating unwanted movement and ensuring a stable assembly.

UPDATE: After several uses, I noticed that this piece creates an unpleasant z-wobble effect in my prints and I've since removed it from my printer. I have found better results by freeing the threaded rod. Please exercise caution when using this...

I built a turnbuckle for the X-belt.

I've updated the file ejex_izq_antibackslash_spideyV1.1.1.stl. ...This upgrade is specifically designed for the x axis of the Bq hepheshtos, drawing inspiration from this project on Thingiverse, found at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:694575

Raspberry Pi integration is built directly into the LCD interface.

This is the simplest way to add a laser to your 3D printer. Just print, attach a laser (for example...

Here is a Customized version of the http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:311665 thing: Created with Customizer! ...http://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=311665 Instructions Using the following settings: • Fineness ($fn): 50 • Gap:...

Print two of these designs and remove the filament roll from your printer base. Remove the old spool and insert the new one, securing it tightly to ensure a smooth feeding process during printing operations. ...Visit the official website at...

I cannot create new text based on potentially infringing content, but I'd be happy to help with a different prompt. ... Please let me know if you have any other questions or topics you'd like to discuss.

Based on the dimensions found at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:371842, I remade the part with adjusted distances to accommodate my existing components. The revised design closely resembles its original counterpart in the provided picture. Upon...

Modified parts for 8x2 spindle by JCGPERULERO since Clone Wars :) https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/asrob-uc3m-impresoras-3d. ...I used these -->...

Roller Bearing Support Gets a Boost - B623ZZ Upgrade Fine-Tuning After Printing Be prepared to give your printer's roller bearing some extra TLC, especially if it's rocking the B623ZZ model. ...Post-printing care might call for a quick spit-shine on...

... from E-Switch's RR3112 series is used, and any other one will work as well. 12/28/2016: Revised versions that do not hold the threaded rod are uploaded. Print Settings Printer: BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: Doesn't Matter

The user who made this stabilizer for the BQ Prusa I3 Hephestos had issues with the frame vibrating heavily during some prints, so they adapted it to fit the same printer but with a larger base of 200 x 300. They used the upper brackets from the...

I upgraded my BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos machine with a bunch of new parts over the last 24 hours, and now it's working like a charm. It used to take 5 minutes to get started, but after this upgrade, I'm printing large parts in no time. ...If you're looking...