prusa enclosure acrylic 3d models

DescriptionThis adapter allows safe stacking of up to three Enclosures (please fix the enclosures to the wall to prevent it from tipping over).There are two versions for use with foam feed or without.You like my Work? Support my efforts and push...

built a lack enclosure for my printer and the PSU cords were too short, needed to run them through the bottom of the table. ...Used a 25mm hole drill in the table and then put this in, was able to run both PSU cords through it and attach to the board...

Rotating electronic enclosures offer simplified access, accompanied by enhanced cable organization. The doors on these units feature a frictionless push-in design that securely fasten into place via a single screw. ...It's advisable to utilize PETG...

Hello,This is just a quick model I made to hold my calipers on the side of my enclosure.  I was constantly looking for them, so I needed a place to call them home.  Printed in PETG with 15 percent infill, extremely sturdy. ... No supports needed...

I remixed prusa's print of the door knob prints to fit a 3mm thick magnet as I could source this locally and faster. ...The exposed faces surrounding the magnets were extruded an extra 1mm.</p>

Fixes I have designed to adress missing features for IKEA enclosure v1 enclosure:spacer - 50x50x2 mm, hole diam: ø3mm - adress issue with doors opening, they were too tight as well as other plexi sides excessive tension, causing stucking on the lower...

You can now mix and match the large and small pieces as needed, depending on your clearance between the top of the printer frame and your enclosure ceiling. The mini version includes two different sized nuts, a 12mm nut and a 14mm nut. I designed...

Electronics enclosure custom-made for the Geeetech GT2560 board. Two 40mm fans are strategically placed to deliver effective cooling to stepper drivers and mosfets, allowing for higher current operation on my stepper motors. ... Check out the fan I'm...

I built a custom enclosure for my printer that allowed me to neatly route the PSU cables underneath the table. The PSU cords were too short, so I had to drill a 25mm hole in the table's bottom to run them through. ...I then placed the cable management...

This is a filament spool stand designed for holding filaments spools on top of an enclosure, specifically created for the IKEA LACK TABLE Enclosure. The original holder was problematic due to its tendency for the spool to fall, as it simply sat on...

... the filament holder for the printer housing. ...Repeatedly, the rolls slipped off from their supporting structure. To resolve this issue, I modified the standard Prusa filament holder in ThinkerCad and it now functions seamlessly without any problems.

This housing is designed specifically for the original LCD 2004 display from Prusa's i4 printer. ...Its purpose is to simplify handling of the SD card, and it attaches seamlessly to the printer using four M3x45mm screws inserted into the original...

Stacking Lack Tables to build a enclosure is a brilliant idea. But I didn't feal much confident in the vibrations the printer send into that structure. So I designed these 2 connetion elements to fix one Table to the next one. I stacked 3 tables...

My i3 MK3 printer basically consist of three stacked Lack Tables ( see link ), where the upper is the modified enclosure and does reside on wheels. ...In order to be able to pull and push it around, I needed handles. I found bwolfey's handle ( see remix...

Top frame Bowden mount 10mm acrylic frame update Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: Prusa i3 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2 Infill: 30% Post-Printing Print with supports if you like, but I preferred to print without them. My prints...

I didn't like the underside of the grommet from Prusa, so made an endcap for it, identical to the one above. It should press fit in right after you print it, but if it doesn't you could just either file it or add some glue. ... You can use the .3mf...

Remove the most top table from your printer enclosure tower and place the cut table directly on the other table. Put a 40x40 cm concrete platter inside the cut window. Do not try to do it the other way around, lifting the cut plate with the...

Original door handles can break their front lip while inserting the plexiglass, so I made this strenghtened remix. There is also a remix for 5 mm x 2 mm round neodymium magnets. Print Settings Printer Brand: Prusa Printer: i3 MK3Rafts: No Supports:...

The preliminary design for a standard Mendel Prusa printer aims to combine the printer, PSU, RAMPS controller, and LCD+keypad into one box. The printer should be easily removable from the top bar unscrewed section. High visibility is achieved through...

All screws comes from the rest of the enclosure build.Since I do not expect people to take this covers up and down daily, I went for a screw-into-plastic design. If a hole gets too big after installing and removing the part many times, just print...

My custom carriage weighs about 40% less than acrylic, with double the stiffness thanks to its four bearing design. Belt clamps have been modified for use with GT2 belt. Profile is only 2mm taller than stock acrylic carriage. To build this part: I...

  The wood parts for the cabinet are all from 2x4’s cut down to 1 ½” frame members with dado cut slots for the plexiglass panels to slide in with additional bracing to keep the frame rigid when the panels are removed.I created the entire project in...

  The wood parts for the cabinet are all from 2x4’s cut down to 1 ½” frame members with dado cut slots for the plexiglass panels to slide in with additional bracing to keep the frame rigid when the panels are removed.I created the entire project in...

I've been trying to achieve a rock-solid acrylic frame for my Folger Prusa i3 printer, so I created a "Z motor bracket" that does the trick perfectly! All it takes is one .stl file - simply mirror it using your preferred slicer software's mirroring...

The holder fits perfectly with the Acrylic Geeetech Prusa I3 standard extruder mount, eliminating the need for a metal bed if using an 8 mm inductive sensor. #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -18 #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -44 #define...

This design is specifically engineered for use on the Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B acrylic frame. To install, simply position the two "branches" symmetrically on either side of the LCD screen. I've been utilizing this setup for a month now, and it's been...

The edges of the Geetech acrylic Prusa i3 display board are quite sharp, causing filament fed from behind the printer to rub against or even get pulled into the corner where the display board meets the main upper bridge. To improve this situation, I...

The edges of the display board of the Geetech acrylic Prusa i3 are rather sharp and filament fed from behind the printer tends to rub against them or even get pulled in the corner the display board and teh main upper bridge forms. So I designed a...

The edges of my Geetech acrylic Prusa i3 display board are rather sharp, and filament fed from behind tends to rub against them or even get pulled into the corner where the display board meets the main upper bridge. So I designed a few things that...

The edges of the display board of the Geetech acrylic Prusa i3 are rather sharp and filament fed from behind the printer tends to rub against them or even get pulled in the corner the display board and the main upper bridge forms. So I designed a...