pmn mine 3d models

If you have one with shiny lead screw like mine, then all the parts should work just fine. This post is not meant as a tutorial, but summary of the steps I took to modify this vise. Use any portion of this post that you will. If you are not...

The holes are different on mine to fit this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:760444 EDIT 2/1/2018 Oh. I forgot to mention. For some reason my X axis is reversed and I can't figure out why. So if you use my firmware you will have to mirror all...

It doesn't matter which direction of LCD you'll chose but for the convenience the driver board attached to the LCD should be on the left side looking from the front of LCD (the side that you'll be looking at the rest of palmtop life) if you don't...

These may need to be scaled in X-Y (diameter) if your printer’s tolerances are significantly different than mine. They should fit snuggly into the holes in the spacers and dividers, but not be so tight as to break the parts. I suggest printing the...

Plug it anything that's not plugged in, move the axis' around to see how the arm's doing, check how it looks in Octoprint (I had to flip my camera horizontally and vertically on Octoprint, and I forgot to set it up in Octolapse before I started a...

I printed mine in Inland Red PLA+, Inland Blue PLA+, Inland Yellow PLA+, and Green PLA+. These are an easy print!</p><figure class="image image-style-align-left image_resized" style="width:22.54%;"><img...

22 AWG)10k linear potentiometer with shaft diameter 7mm or less (mine is an Alpha “12mm” model)Panel-mount momentary pushbutton with shaft diameter 7mm or lessNPN transistor x 1 piece (e.g. something simple like BC547, <strong>BC548</strong>,...

I use a jeweller's loupe to check the finish, but if you have better eyes than mine you might not need any magnificationIf you printed the reed tongues and blowpipe on a surface more rough than the Prusa smooth build sheet, you should sand their...

However, if your tripod isn't very good (mine non-Arca-compatible ones aren't) I'd suggest setting the camera to use electronic shutter and either remotely trigger it or use the self timer -- that will minimize misalignments due to vibration -- and...

I didn't bother installing it for mine. Brass rather than steel is a good choice to avoid scratching your camera's mount surface.</p><figure class="image"><img...

I built a small cable like this for mine (you can see it at the back of the printer on the left in the pictures)I removed the stock LCD display as I don't use it with Klipper. You could potentially install it instead of one of the front right end...

I think mine were roughly 9 inches/22 cm; longer is easier to work withCut a small length of aluminum wire and wrap around the center (this is just to hold everything together temporarilyCut another length of the black nylon thread, exact length...

The housing is specially designed to dissipate heat which increases the efficiency and lifespan of the LEDs and electronics.Suggested Applications: The EPL-HB-150LED-RT-C is approved for use within environments where flammable or combustible gases,...

The housing is specially designed to dissipate heat which increases the efficiency and lifespan of the LEDs and electronics.Suggested Applications: The EPL-HB-150LED-RT is approved for use within environments where flammable or combustible gases,...

The housing is specially designed to dissipate heat which increases the efficiency and lifespan of the LEDs and electronics.Suggested Applications: The EPL-IBM-FA-3X150LED-RT is approved for use within environments where flammable or combustible...

Obviously, you will also need to buy an electric cable including a connector (I bought mine at "Clas Ohlson" in Sweden). You must ENSURE not to overheat the printed parts so take good care of which lamps to use. Personally, I use LED lamps of...

Obviously, you will also need to buy an electric cable including a connector (I bought mine at "Clas Ohlson" in Sweden). You must ENSURE not to overheat the printed parts so take good care of which lamps to use. Personally, I use LED lamps of no more...

Depending on where you decide to mount your safety/fire select switch you may need to also cut away parts of the side of the gearbox, see the pictures to see the chunk I took out of the side of mine in order to mount the safety switch through the...

The housing is specially designed to dissipate heat which increases the efficiency and lifespan of the LEDs and electronics.Suggested Applications: The EPL-HB-150LED-RT-180B is approved for use within environments where flammable or combustible...

Plug options include a 5-15 15 amp straight blade plug for use with 120V explosion proof outlets, a 5-20 20 amp straight blade plug for use with 120V explosion proof outlets, or a 6-20 20 amp straight blade plug for use with 220-240V explosion proof...

... gone well and you have a piece of furniture of which you can be justly proud.   I am certainly very happy with mine!There is a lot of documentation here, and I'd really appreciate any feedback on anything that's not clear or in need of correction.

... chain for the gantry wires that lined up and worked well from that point. 12. Route your hotend wires back to your control module as you like. I've got connector plugs in mine near the gantry which is easy and also looks like hot garbage...

Mine are 25mm, for example, the Cross Country Performance kit uses 30mm thick spacers so you could modify the height in the Z-Axis in your slicer to potentially get 2.5" of lift from the tophat spacers alone. The lift given by the thickness of the...

The run-by holes under the threaded inserts are already designed larger.Take some measurements and make sure your threaded insert matched mine….meaning that it's top flange will settle into the provided void so the Cap flushes to the Base. I'm sure...

Mine had somehow drifted over time due to loose screws, because of which I wasted some time in understanding why my X carriage didn't move freely and was wobbling a bit. After meticulously squaring the frame, the problem was resolved. **Mandatory...

I used 2 x 400mm for X and 2 x 300 mm for Y (recycled from printers and scanners.) With these lengths, and the new Z stage, I get about 312(X) x 212(Y) x 23(Z) mm of workspace. 2 x X lengths of 10 mm (or 3/8") threaded rod, with associated bolts,...

I used the same for the rest of the system on mine.Total cost of this project using the required materials is less than $70 not including the print. The individual cost of these components is much lower if you buy them in multipacks. I've found that...

The original effector is 6mm's thick, mine is 7. The rod end mounts are 52 mm's wide. So are my carriages. This way I don't need the spacers. This worked well for me for years, then I got the itch for dual extruders. I designed an effector that will...

I have mine in an enclosure and only have them printed in PETG instead of ABS or stronger. So I have experienced some issues over time with these due to the heat. I changed the slots used for mounting to the linear guide block to holes and beefed...

I went with a 32 microstep on mine setup and I know there is 1.7 gazillion for microstepping and 1.7 gazillion against it. I wanted quieter as this little printer rarely if ever see's the kind of stepper load where it runs out of torque and starts...