photon heater 3d models

FYI, I swapped the 24v bed for a 120v, 500W heater powered by an SSR; just because, and I wanted to pull as many watts off the Gen L as I could. I designed this in FreeCAD, so there isn't an assembly file. If someone wants to mod it, I can post the...

Hot end fix is highly recommended https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831 Resources suggestions: Aliexpress:...

... offset is -27 mm on the Y axis, 0 mm on the X axis. Z offset needs to be precisely tested - for me it was -2.48 mm, but every assembly is slightly different. - You should also PID-tune the Mosquito heater with part cooling at 100%. ...

Heater block is uninsulated at this time. I've found it's worthwhile to add some insulation to the block. I use cereal box paper secured with kapton tape. Update 3/13/17 Added a couple photos of part installed in very thin test print of bracket. So...

This is a very involved project, I have replaced the main board with a Duet 2 WiFi, added a 24v PSU, swapped out the Z axis and frame (kept the OEM build plate and bed heater) and upgraded the hot ends to V6 units. I had already upgraded to the...

The good thing about this design is that you can mount the fan at any distance from the motherboard - the highest point is the green terminals you connect the heaters to once you move some of the wires to the side and I measured that the fan needed...

I reduced the height of the hotend standoff and added additional elements for securing the Coolend_Fan_Duct (see below) as well as a strain relief section for the hotend heater and thermistor wires. A section at the back of the holder was removed to...

Check that the heater cartridge wires are not in contact with the funnels. Carefully bend them away if needed. Re-check that the funnels are centred and print away! I usually print PLA at 50-75% (with the really powerful Sunon blowers). If the...

The V2 fan duct blocks the air upwards to the heater block by itself better than V1, so this has improved. the fan duct design was optimized for evenness of airflow from all directions, design verified with CFD simulation, the target was not to...

If you are still getting a thermal runaway at 100% fan speed, and you have increased the 100% layer height beyond 1.5mm and you do not wish to use a sock on your heater block follow these steps: Pre-heat your bed and extruder to your normal operating...

If you are still getting a thermal runaway at 100% fan speed and have increased the 100% layer height beyond 1.5mm, and you do not wish to use a sock on your heater block, follow these steps: Pre-heat your bed and extruder to your normal operating...

I found that the rear left nozzle interfered very slightly with the red cable to my heater block, but I simply added a bit of slack to this by loosening the cable ties on the back of the extruder body, and have not had any issues since. Other tweaks...

cut and prepare all cables (2x fans, 1x temp sens, 1x heater) and connect it to the PCB. 8. mount holder to the H2 extruder 9. add BLTouch holder with mounted BLTouch 10. coffee break 11. add light glower if you want 12. mount it to the printer...

I had to be there to turn the heater for the beds on immediately after the blank lids printed to prevent the model from releasing from the glass surface. Again, it worked well for me until I tried using the same orientation on a Ender 3 style...

To help with overheating, I also printed it in white ABS instead of black and put some aluminum adhesive tape on the side in front of the heater. Print in 0.1mm layer height, 100% infill, and support/ The upgrade with the titanium heatbreak forced...

You might be able to use PETG as well, but PLA will sag as the probe mount is very close to the heater block. I only recommend printing with ABS. Print at 66% or higher infill. I printed some at 75% infill and others at 66% infill. The more solid...

If all the movements and heaters work, we can start with calibration tests etc. Warning: This upgrade requires you to make permanent changes to your printer. After reaching the point of no return, you can't undo the changes to return to how your...

I'm using a big one for the heater coil connector, to make sure I don't mix that one up with something else. As you can see, it's got lettering as a printed part. I used my MMU2 to do it on my Prusa machine, but this could also be done by just...

I put on a silicone sock on the E3D heater. This helps stabilize temperatures. It's a good idea anyway. 3. The part cooling fan outlet is close to the same level as the bottom of the nozzle. Just check your installation to make sure it doesn't go any...

The firmware has my values which are for an E3D v6 hotend and a 600 watt 110 volt bed heater! All configurations using the same hardware will have different PID values due to drafts, ambient temp, etc.. GREAT 3D printing starts with good configs. If...

29th June 2021: v18 of the Mount has improved side venting and is easier to print 5th June 2021: "Brutus" single 5015 Fan Duct v3 has improved internal airflow and uses different nozzles that are place further away from the heater block to avoid...

4) Screw the motor with the BMG together 5) Put the Hotend Holder inside 6) Put the Thermistor and Heater into the Dragon Hotend Plate 7) Screw the Mount to the X Axe's Backplate 8) Screw the Hotend Fan 9) Screw the Nozzle Duct Fan to the Duct mount...

It keeps air flow from blowing on the heater block or going anywhere it shouldn't. Printed as I did it weighs 7g where the stock metal shroud weighs a porky 44g. The stock bolts that hold the heatsink to the X carriage are not quite long enough. I...

- Wires (AWG12): two lengths to connect the bed heater; - Wires (AWG16): two lengths to connect the hot end; - Heat shrink tubing to assemble all the wires , per connector. - Metric screws: 4x M4x12 and a set of M3 screws (M3x8, M3x10 and M3x12) -...

These have a rough surface and I noticed after some time that it was slightly abrading the insulation on the heater cartridge wiring as the wires moved against the shroud with the back-and-forth motion of the x-axis. It is highly recommended that the...

 This skew really matters when printing pieces that have to mate together.This adjuster piece and procedure allows for fine adjustment of the X-Y skew angle. What you'll need3 washers - 10mm OD, ~3.2mm ID1 screw M3x12 0.5mm thread 1 screw M3x20 0.5mm...

Heated bed components: You'll need a heated aluminum plate measuring 400x300x4mm with a silicone heater pad that is 300x200mm in size and operates at 24V. Extruder components: Use a Chinese MK8 extruder with a stronger motor (NEMA17 2A) and a...

・I installed 3Dtouch on KINGROON KP3.・The duct support "KP3_DuctSupport+3Dtouch.stl" to which 3Dtouch can be attached is a remix of this EZABL KP3 OEM Mount with...

PLA is less suitable as the fan shroud is too close to the heater block.Slicer settings:The model is oriented in the intended printing orientation0.4 mm nozzle (0.6 mm nozzle can be used when using the Arachne slicer engine in Cura 5.0 or higher).4...

It has a feature that allows the user to decide for how many minutes the heaters must be turned on and after that time the thermostat will automaticly turn them off (yeah like a timer... You get it now?). If you are curious about this project, you...