monoprice maker select 3d printer v2

The steel frame edges on these printers make an excellent mounting location for LED strips. These mounts are low profile, positioning the strip in front of the frame. They are designed for 10mm, 30/meter, non-addressable, IP65 waterproof, 12v, 5050...

This is a handy tool holder that helps me keep my 3D Print Removal Tool and 2mm and 1.5 mm allen wrenches neatly organized right next to the printer. ...Simply stick it in place with double-sided tape, glue, or even bubblegum - whatever method works...

... ... I've remixed it to suit an Ender3 or Ender3-Pro Extruder perfectly. It might just work on Creality CR-Printers too. Worked flawlessly for me, actually! // EDIT: Something went wrong during export from the 3D software.

If you're one of the many makers out there who's been experimenting with using a Raspberry Pi 1 B as an OctoPi, you know how convenient it would be to have it mounted securely on the back of your Maker Panel System Module (MPSM). Well, we've got...

I started with the Colossal Mini V2, using this mount in conjunction with the extended bed which evolved into my dual z motor concept V2 mini. I enlarged the bed to 300 x 300mm, added a third rod for additional support and mounted the bearing cup on...

The Nekteck USB Micro SD Card Reader is a holder specifically designed to work seamlessly with the popular tool bracket made especially for the MP Select Mini.

Here's a basic configuration for Prusa edition of Slic3r 1.36.1, set up for the Monoprice Delta Mini Printer. This version of Slic3r allows advanced settings for retraction, which is taken advantage of in this configuration. It's quite basic...

I adapted this snap case to enable secure attachment of the case to my Monoprice Maker Select Plus/Wanhao i3 Plus 3D printer.

\nI've designed an air duct for the Monoprice Mini that clips on and features two bottom plates that slide into place. One is a block off plate for use with ABS, while the other is a vent duct specifically for use with PLA.\nThe design is currently...

This is a custom-made holder for the X-ACTO Tool, specifically engineered to fit perfectly with the popular tool bracket used in conjunction with the MP Select Mini.

I've included the step file so if you need to make any adjustments I missed.All parts are printed in PLA, 0.2mm Layers, and 20% Infill.EDIT : I had issues with the PLA print, reprinted in ABS and it's been working great.Print SettingsPrinter...

Larger Capacity Heavy Snap-fit Spool Holder Auxiliary Stand Alone Application Direct Mount IIIP Select Mini, No Hardware Required. - A hinged center enables quick spool changes. - The hinged center allows for a two-halves connection point on the...

It's a unique combination of the micro SD card extension holder from the Anet A8 and the passive side vent on the MP Select mini, expertly blended together to create a seamless design. I printed it using standard Cura settings with tree supports,...

A straightforward upgrade for your MP Select Mini, featuring a more user-friendly and effortless installation process, allowing you to effortlessly utilize a piece of glass as a secure and stable Z-end stop spacer directly on the machine's bed.

... specifically designed to be attached to the printer's existing screw holes. ...This thoughtful addition can be securely fastened to the right-hand side of the printer, providing easy access to both tools while maintaining a clutter-free workspace.

I've had the MPMini for about 5 years now, it was my first introduction to 3D printing and it has a special place in my heart. I've upgraded it so many times, mostly due to my breaking the original hot end, and deciding on buying an E3D V6. Some of...

This is available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4652745 This is a slim new design, tested on V2. Flush with the bed, compatible with any part cooling hacks. No Z-height offset. But if you need any offset (ex: glass bed)...

This is available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4652745 -------- This is a slim new design, tested on V2. Flush with the bed, compatible with any part cooling hacks. No Z-height offset. But if you need any offset (ex: glass bed)...

<p>The stock fan was too loud for my liking, so I replaced it with a 120mm PC fan. ...to allow for sufficient airflow those feet will lift the printer 35mm + 5mm if you add some cork underneath it. ...I attached them with hotglue.</p>

... the details. ...This is one cohesive piece now, requiring either a larger printer or segmentation into smaller parts to print successfully. ...It accommodates a standard full-size SD card ribbon cable, featuring slots for internal routing of the cable.

I already had the E3D hotend adapter (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1621387) on my printer, but I wanted to add a separate part fan without taking off the backing plate and installing a new one. ...Instead, I combined the two designs into one...

The slight play in the unsupported arm of the Select Mini began to reveal its limitations, resulting in layer issues. It was time to build a sturdy X axis support gantry. The only hitch was that all of the good designs were tailored for 6mm...

... anymore. I also cut the feet's corners diagonally so that it can be printed in smaller printers with a square printing space by orienting it at a 45° angle. ...You may need to print without a skirt or reduce the size by a couple % to make it fit.

I created this because my endstop cable was too close to the printer box. If you decide to print this, be prepared to use a sharp knife and some sandpaper to free up the ball inside the filament guide. ... I'm aware that this might not be the most...

... as the part fan in this setup. Its attachment is removable just like in the original version. NO_LED versions have the LED holes completely sealed, while LED_HOLES leaves them intact for users who want to add some extra lighting to their printer.

To control the printer. Raspberry PI 3 Model B 40mm 5v fan m3 self tapping x8 6mm, x4 16mm, x4 20mm eBay for the Pi case i used 0.4 walls or 1 shell. then 100% infill. i did these settings so that there is little to no hollow spots along the case...

I've got to agree with you there - the original design is indeed too large for printing directly onto the printer itself. To overcome this challenge, I decided to split the design down the center of the fan and test its integrity. My theory was that...

To make this work within those constraints, I designed it to use the two existing screws on top of the power supply unit itself, which keeps the spool aligned with the printer's axis. Printing this object should take around ten hours at 15% infill...

To help with any printer tolerance variations, I've included the STEP file for easy adjustment of the smooth rod holes' diameter. This way, you can make sure your setup works seamlessly. UPDATE: It appears that running MPSM without an X-axis shroud...

The bottom of this printer is just raw metal edges, leading to scratches on my table. ...With the edges so thin, there wasn't a place to add felt or rubber feet, so I designed these little feet to slip over the bottom corners.