lian li glass replacement 3d models

I've designed it such that you will need to replace the last M5x10 button head screw on the X motor mount with an M5x12 socket head cap screw. I'm printing it now. Also, at some point I need to remove the x endstop triggers on ALL models. It is...

I hope to replace the image with a better one (and clean up the cabling too). Thanks for your understanding.NotesThe Raspberry Pi hanger:Compatible with both Raspberry Pi 3 and Raspberry Pi 4 as the spacing is the same.Supports mounting one 2.5"...

In order to maximize bed usage, our only option is to route it to the left, otherwise by going back the cable it will hit the vertical frame on the right side when probing the far right side of the bed (since you need to move the carriage as far...

i may add a second hole for wiring so it doesn't have to be drilled by others but right now thats how i got the led to the inside under the boot an up through the hole i drilled, put the body on first b4 trying to run the wires or they will try to...

Doctor approved for working with it all day! Quick and easy to 3D print, with 0.4-1mm nozzle (50min for one shield) Easy installation and replacement of the shield! A simple A4 sheet of PVC.</p> <p>Structure engineered to be light and flexible! ...(only...

To save space I'll probably replace the nut pocket with just an M4 thread. Added some photos of first test prints in PETG. Update April 4 part 2: I've uploaded a new back plate for 26mm steppers. It was pretty tight before. There should be about...

The tallest ones are for VOLCANO.Printer and firmware setupAfter you replaced the hotend you must do a PID calibration (PID autotune).The height has been modified with the installation of this toolhead so you also need to do a Delta calibration and...

Since the Raspberry Pi on the RatRig is located remotely, it won't be mounted on the back of the screen as is typical.Hardware Required:1 x Raspberry Pi 7" Touch Screen (https://www.raspberrypi.com/products/raspberry-pi-touch-display/)1 x DSI Ribbon...

With further adjustments, the build volume was increased to nearly 170mm on the Y-axis and 165mm on the X-axis.Here you can see a video that i have posted with my first attempt for speed boat with the old design. After a few months of extensive ABS...

I designed the Spindle mount separate from the Z Carriage so it can be replaced with other kinds of mounts. ### PARTS NEEDED **These parts are needed for all variants of this modification** - 8x Screw to fasten the spindle nut, I used pretty small...

(Replaces the screws that come with the radio, mic jack, usb plug and anchor screws) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HVRJW5J?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Switching supply (You'll adjust the voltage to 14.5V)...

So, I used the spool holder, spool nut, and collar from Tek_3D's Spool Holder that uses 8mm bearings and an 8mm rod and used the lower-profile filament spool holder replacement that mddatthngvrs created as the starting point for designing a set of...

In theory, it replaces the front gasket, and you don't use any filter, but in my only test of it so far I couldn't notice any effect. I decided to leave it in the code, however, to let folks tinker with it if they know what they're doing. ...If you do...

We designed it so that both the front and back have openings so you can still replace the AirTag's battery without disassembling the print. Also, when you ping your AirTag no sound is blocked by the print. It also has a small hole so you can use...

That way when you pull out the laptop, it won't release the module and stay plugged into the cable.Didn't include a .gcode because I don't know how useful it will be, seeing as how it's a minor variation of version 2.0.Future work:Design an expansion...

The code solves issue 1 above by adding a second layer of recursion, making iteratively better and better guesses of theta2 until the number of tries is exhausted (default set to 50) or the requested error is achieved (default set to 1/100 of a...

I followed a guide where you have to take the servo all apart and replace the potmeter wires with 2 resistors and brake off a lot of small parts inside the servo. After doing that I found a different guide where you don't have to do any soldering. I...

I chose the Sanyo-Denki 109P0405H901 fan as a replacement, but I don't know if that's required. You'll either need to buy a new Molex plug or salvage the one from the original fan if you choose to use this fan because it comes with bare wires.</p>...

If you already have printed the base deluxe trays then skip to the third section that will tell you what trays are still usable and which could be or need to be replaced. As for the quality of the prints, I was using a 0.32mm layer height for...

The posts are also removable allowing you to replace them without reprinting the whole base should one break, they're also reversible if you want to support the spool from the inside edge vs the outside. Comments appreciated, let me know what you...

As I said, I did not experience any breaks or delamination in years using those clamps, but please beware, if you see any cracks, replace the broken part. Printing setup:Material:          PETGLayer height:   0.2mmPerimeters:      8Infill:          ...

To solve the bed leveling issue, I replaced the springs with longer ones (20mm, like the ones on the CR-10). I then cut some cork & foam to size and stuck that between the Y carriage and the heated bed. This lets me lower the bed enough that the...

I have done the work for you.The original gantry PCB is replaced with the "auxiliary" PCB, and the "breakout" PCB is located inside of the main electronics enclosure at the bottom of the printer. The original ribbon cables (unique to the CR10 Smart...

Everything here on this design still works sufficiently to extract your fumes, but the additional option uses the desktop fume extractor with a larger blower fan and will move more air from the enclosure if you prefer. See x2 photos I have added...

A 3D printed ‘box’, designed as separate box sides that bolt/screw together, to not only make printing easier, but also to allow the sensor and ESP32 components to be easily assembled inside the ‘box’.The ‘bolting together’ is accomplished by...

Wired in series with the existing NC end-stop by replacing the ground side wire. Output pin to end-stop, Ground to mainboard and Vcc to ICSP header. The 4'th wire is spare, in case I want to strobe the LED brightly from a separate...

With this new mount, the A (also called Alpha or AF) system replaced the incompatible manual-focus SR/MC/MD mount and quickly gained popularity. Unfortunately, lawsuits soon followed: Exxon sued over the typography of "xx" in Maxxum and Honeywell...

... work-in-progress. I kept the overall shape (although it has been widened significantly to accommodate the low-profile GPU) as well as the mounting holes and standoffs. Everything else has been modified or replaced in some way along the way.

A bigger bar with 2 screws instead of 1 for better alignment too… Added an extra square M3 nut on the bottom so you can secure/screw down the stand to the buddy board casing.For the stands, you only need to print the prusa-mini-z-stand_rc-2.0.stl if...

I used 3mm and 4mm threaded bar a lot, you could glue CF rods but I liked the idea of just unbolting to replace any damage. This adds weight but not a massive amount. Some of the photos may be slightly different to the STLs as they evolved a bit. All...