lc10 build 3d models
230392 3d models found related to lc10 build.thingiverse
My Halot One has a couple issues with the build plate when using a Two Trees flexible plate. The added 2.1mm of thickness makes it impossible to level. the plate rests on the paper and the mono LCD so hard you cannot budge the paper. This could...
prusaprinters
This scraper can be safely used on the build plate with little danger of scratching or gouging the coating. This was inspired by a similar print by Tor G, but I decided to create a new 3D model. My design uses the same basic features as Tor G, but I...
thingiverse
*Original Summary* This is my re-creation of the Anycubic Photon MonoX build plate / attachment, the areas I needed anyways. I am going to make some TPU parts for it, so that the resin doesn't get all in the bolt area, crevices, etc. Makes it a...
thingiverse
Additional info and more of my builds One of my more consistent ways to make me curse my own name is when I dump resin down the front of a printer while removing the platen...I just got sad thinking about it. I've also found, on more than one...
thingiverse
Hey guys, Here's my version of Jason Bodi Build Hammer 7 Shotgun after several years of modification, and I'm excited to share one of the versions with you. The pump handle needs to be printed separately from the arm; just use Gorilla glue to attach...
thingiverse
I moved the connector arm back so the build plate can go further onto the arm. And I narrowed the arm because I ended up sawing off about 5 mm on the one I printed to get it to fit. So I haven't tried this exact STL but it should only be an...
thingiverse
For DIY enthusiasts, instructions are provided to build the plate using drawings, a BOM, and recommended materials from OnlineMetals.com. Cutting aluminum can be challenging without CNC mill or router; however, a 1/8" material is still suitable. A...
thingiverse
> Machine" and click on "Add" • Add the STL file to the "Printer Models" section • Click "OK" With these steps complete, you'll have a PrintrBot Simple Metal build plate model in Simplify3D. The print head is located at the 0,0,0 position for a...
prusaprinters
Reason I made this is because I noticed the original one is made from a raw metal which scratches the blue paint from the build plate. Print with supports (for the screw hole), PLA works well Attached .stl differs from the pic, made it more...
prusaprinters
This is a simple clamp holder for the Incra "Build-It" clamps to get them out of the way when I am not using them. Hook part 2 to the pegboard, then slide part 1 on it. There isn't really a need to lock or glue them together, since they don't move...
prusaprinters
Are you impatient like me and want to remove the build plate immediately after a print while it's HOT and put on another one to start another print? Well, this HOT build plate grabber is for you! It's especially useful after printing...
thingiverse
I also replaced their logo with the Elegoo "e" on the front of the build plate as I think it fits better with the machine's design. I printed it on my Ender 3, flipped upside-down with supports and it works fine, although on my original Mars the...
thingiverse
This project will be ongoing and I will post the progress and files of the build so others can use it if they want to do a conversion. Remaining tasks are: New carriage mount design Full rewire with shielded 26AWG cable Rambo Connectors from...
prusaprinters
First of all, thanks to jacquesuk for creating this overlay, it looks and works great! This is a remix of the original design fitting a smaller build surface than 233x233mm. This is achieved by splitting the piece and adding dovetail connections...
thingiverse
If you have a Reprap PCB heatbed (http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed) attached, it is probably made with a piece of 200mm x 200mm glass as your build platform. However, you will soon discover that trying to print an object requiring the entire 200 x...
thingiverse
The Build is Still a Work in Progress; I Will Release the Final Version After Conducting Successful Flight Tests Update: Landing Skids Have Been Added to Enhance Stability During My Initial Flight Test, The Copter Performed Exceptionally Well at 65%...
cults3d
I found it a real challenge, like many others, when trying to level the build platform. Even using a level app on my smartphone didn't make a difference. One day, while watching a documentary about the Pyramids, I wondered if that ancient tool called...
thingiverse
Beardface's Laser Cut Build Platform has been converted to a PDF, rotated, and centered for A3 landscape printing. This design is compatible with an 8x8 inch heated bed as seen in Beardface's original Thingiverse post...
cults3d
Make sure it is stable before fully releasing the build plate. Stand 2 is suitable for all types of prints from large to small, although it was made with larger prints in mind. It does not have any inclination, the construction plate will be...
thingiverse
Updates include a fixed manifold error (thanks to Pierre-Olivier Ceffis), removal of 10t pulleys, replaced with aluminium pulleys for improved print results, rearrangement of pieces to avoid detachment from the heatbed, and ensuring they stay away...
thingiverse
My build plate mount snapped in two the other day and frustrated with waiting on Monoprice, I decided to 3D print this one myself.\r\n\r\nI beefed up some areas of the design but tried to stay pretty close to the original. The indexing features are...
thingiverse
I wanted something simple to build and didn't require any electronic circuitry that needed to be created each time the saber was constructed. To light up the back of the saber, I used a keyring torch with an LED as a lamp. The brightness is...
thingiverse
If everything is aligned properly, the bracket should keep the end of the build plate from wobbling back and forth, and should run up and down with no resistance. In the photo I included, you can see I simply kept the anchors in place with some tape....
prusaprinters
Tighten them down to secure the mounting studs to the base and backer board.Extra FunPrint some of my (non-threaded) 1x1 studs in different colors to add more flair to your build plate.I have also included additional build plates if you just want to...
thingiverse
Featuring a 100mm x 100mm build platform and a tensioner, it also retains your cool LEDs and the awesomeness of its teeth. The design was assisted by Twotimes (Aaron Double from DoCo Design) during testing. Get in touch with him if you require 8mm...
thingiverse
how all of thats called anyway xDAnyhow; Here are the parts I useServos: 3x 9gWing: Spare Aeroscout wingFuselage: 6mm depron (bottom and sides) and 3mm depron (Top), 1000x8x8mm Carbon square, cut to 80 cm.Flight controller: speedybee f405 wing (not...
myminifactory
This video shows how easy it is to build:youtu.be/DFWoqFTzCmcYou need: Four 2mm steel axes (55mm, 48mm, 48mm and 10mm length), A pipe (4mm outside diameter, 12mm length). It can be a profile from a hardware-store or a stalk from a lollipop. A tooth...
cults3d
Moreover, you can add a little piece of plastic to change the color oh the saber (like a Kyber crystal !) The LED i'm using : Infapower F026 5-LED Keyring Torch You can find what you need to build the lightsaber here :...
cults3d
I am setting up a farm with some 1+ machines that were missing build plates. Don't use ABS. Uses PLA or PETG.Make sure your printer doesn't print over-size as this is a close fit (about 0.2mm clearance for bolt head, and 0.25mm for Z-arm). I used...
prusaprinters
... difference between an early model and a later model. This will only fit the later models where the build plate arm mounts flush to the Z axis plate. ...If you have an early model you‘ll want to use Cryptothornton design which I have linked below.