flashforge creator pro parts diagram 3d models

If the M104 was in the start script then you would have do disable the other extruder like Egurs profile or have whole different profiles for each side like Lyl3s profile. ...So you need to make sure that you have a skirt around your print because this...

... been using the 2016 edition of my multi-width bracket, and it turns out that's actually designed for the 2015 model. ...Because of the open clips on the v.2016 Creator, this bracket may not grip as securely as the one made for the 2015 version does.

. Category: 3D Printer Parts

Print Settings: Printer: Flashforge Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: .2 Infill: 75% Notes: It must be quite strong, so ABS or PETG supports might be necessary for the large hole (PLA cannot handle motor and hot end heat). ...This is a work in...

My tab broke off on my fan duct I initially printed out. ...I decided to add a thick ridge to the top of the tab to help strengthen this part of the duct.

To install, you simply unscrew the original plastic parts and replace them with this part using the same screws. Next, slide the filament tube through the eyelets, which hold it in place by friction. I use a 1/4-inch OD polyethylene tube, but I...

Then, lightly clamp it to your x carriage.\r\n\r\n I think the aluminum parts are very much worth it for the added rigidity, but I would recommend getting better bearings than what comes with them because they have a lot of play.\r\n\r\n Here are the...

Use 2 M3 nuts (included in spare parts bag) to secure mount to extruder bar - and reuse fan mounting bolts, some of which may be in your spare parts. Disconnect the active cooling fan controlled by M126 / M127 (on EXTRA header for AT2650 board) when...

I upgraded my FFCP just before active cooling fans became a standard part of printers, roughly a month beforehand. It's always been a challenge managing the active cooling system. I've finally had enough and ordered a substantial 120mm fan that plugs...

They stumbled upon a YouTube video showcasing an ingenious 3D printed part, which immediately caught their attention. However, one major inconvenience stood in the way: switching spools was a tedious task. Determined to find a solution, they decided...

... Celebrate with good food.11: Replace all parts in reverse order12: Re-level the bed to both nozzlesTip: I like to fine tune bed leveling by using 2-3 skirts on my print and adjust them bed height real-time. ...Trust me, this method is the best!</p>

Note that matching toothed posts on the mount parts and vertical ensure stability in the angle of vertical positioning. Rotate as desired then press to engage the teeth. A better trash bin was added after using the old one for four months. The new...

This required remaking the parts from scratch, which was challenging but necessary to achieve a simple hex design. Second, and most importantly, I re-threaded both the pin and nut to make them larger and less susceptible to stripping through repeated...

2) Measure the exact distance above each leveling knob 3) Subsequent leveling sessions will be simplified using this device to adjust the knobs accordingly Parts: * This design utilizes 6x3mm magnets for secure attachment to the rails and prevents...

It also leaves enough room for a 4020 as the part cooling fan. The fan duct fits into the clamp block separately, this makes it easier to print, and design/test. I have left the screw holes open to either use plastic screws, or brass inserts,...

So, I designed one using three bridge parts to set the width of the holder. These bridges also feature holes for creating add-ons. First, I created "hooks" to suspend the stool from the top of my printer. It works quite well but can become...

... <p><strong>Filament:</strong> Hatchbox ABS <br/> <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong></p> </p><div><p>To get a pair of feet, mirror the file in the slicer. Print with the flat base down. Category: 3D Printer Parts

So, I took matters into my own hands and designed one that lets you use three bridge parts to set the width of the holder as needed. I also added some holes to these bridges so you can get creative with custom addons. My first foray was making...

I found the TH3D EZNeo RGB kit to be the perfect part for my rebuild, only it doesn't quite work with the original mounts on the FFCP. The mounting centers on the FFCP light strip are 130mm, whereas the TH3D is 140mm (for the outer two holes,...

You risk getting very poor layer adhesion in the lower part of your print, and fast-printed parts like infill may detach already during printing. In other words, your print will fall apart. To avoid this, you must reduce fan speed in a specific...

This shim is designed for the glass products sold on this website:\nhttps://www.flashforge-eu.com/parts-and-accessories/frosted-glass-build-platform\nPrint Parameters\nMachine: \n Flashforge Creator Pro\n \n Raft Settings: \n Disabled\n \n Support...

Here is my FFCP spool holder problem solved with a simplified version designed to be printed straight up, unlike overly complex models available elsewhere that waste valuable space with holes in the axle. A tip that's 28mm in diameter dictates that...

Modified a bit on the length so it can fit for normal filaments spool with 5.5cm diameter hole.

A substantial holder for a high-performance 3D printer.

Inside the heat chamber, wiring and filament tubes are carefully maintained by human hands.

<p>Just wanted to share my dummy of the FFCP printhead for all you modders out there. The dimensions might not be extremely exact, however it should work well for most modifications. ...I included a left extruder only variant for single extruder...

The universal filament filter was expertly revamped by CreativeTools to seamlessly attach to the end of the filament guide tube.

This component closely resembles its predecessor, a standard motor design. ...To get it up and running, carefully thread the M3 screw holes with a precision tap.

This tool cleans the filament off the extruder before printing starts. Made for a brush, it's an effective design that also works well with staples or wire to accomplish the same task. The G-code required to run this tool consists of just five lines...