extruder idler prusa 3d models

One problem that's been causing some frustration is when the filament keeps escaping from the extruder idler and gears, resulting in no extrusion at all. To resolve this issue, try using a smaller hole of about 2.25mm in diameter. ...Additionally,...

if you upgraded your ender 3 or some other printer to a direct drive, and are using standing filaments, you can turn your bowden extruder's idler gear into a filament guide! + 1x long ass m3 screw 1x m3 T-nut It doesnt get any simpler than this.

PRUSA I3 FORTE X End Idler based on Prusa i3 Rework version, completely redesigned from scratch to produce a robust part that will never crack or bend. This part can replace the Prusa i3 Rework - X End Idler with ease. ... Key Features: + A thick and...

Following the instructions I did a very small trim of the idler arm, but I did a little too much. So I thought a better solution was to fit a small bolt or screw into the arm so that small adjustments could be made. After some Fusion360...

... All the same parts as the original with the addition of a M1.8 x 10mm Print instructionsPrinting is the same recomended PETG as the MMU2S MK3S Idler Arm. ...Make certain layers are strong as there is not a great margin of error around the M1.8 hole.

but it should also be compatible with the original rigidbot extruder. i printed a few of these in ABS and the first one worked great for 2 years until the filament wore a hole in the top. the second one worked for a year until the peg for the...

Prusa i3 Extruder

Modified Original Prusa i3 MK3/S Y Axis Idler Specially Designed to Fit LDO 2GT 16-Tooth Idler Ensures Smooth Operation with Factory-Toleranced Precision. ...Print with Confidence in PETG, ABS, CFPC, or Any Material with High Glass Bed Transition...

To enhance your printer's stability, remove the Y-axis idler and install a Prusa Y Motor Mount. Print this mount, replace the idler with it, and follow the photo instructions for installation. ...By doing so, you'll improve your 3D printer's...

The Prusa I3 Y-axis Idler comes equipped with a belt tightener and includes the following hardware: one M5x20 screw, one M5 nut, one M3x15 screw, and one M3 nut.

The Prusa i3's belt tensioner/idler is a must-have upgrade. ...It replaces the factory-standard part and lets you fine-tune the belt tension with the same screws used originally.

To enhance my Prusa MK3, I decided to replace the original idler's M3 nuts with M3 Nylon Lock nuts. Previously, the screws had become loose, leading to this modification. ...I printed new parts using Prusa PETG based on the provided STL files from the...

This is a remix of Jooxoe3i's Y-idler (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:461824) I've adjusted the idler tensioner to fit on the original Prusa i3 MK2/MK2S/MK2.5. Print two sides, the spacer, and the pusher. You will need: 1x M3 nut 2x M3 lock nuts...

This is a redesign of the Y-Belt Idler for i3 MK2 extended by a tensioner system.\nThe tensioner consists of one M3 locking nut and one M3x12 hexagon socket screw.\nThe locking nut must be integrated into the Y-Belt Idler from beneath with its...

I managed to snap my Y idler on Prusa i3 (over-tightening the screws). Since I didn't want to completely disassemble the Y axis to replace it, I designed a replacement one that also allows for belt tensioning. I created three versions: Prusa I3...

Original Prusa MK3 Idler Door with Bearing. Similar in design to the MK2, it serves as a substitute due to unavailability of spare Bondtech Needle Bearings and Gears. Nonetheless, this bearing is anticipated to perform better with flexible filaments...

Thanks to Aldric Negrier, who suggested looking at a design on Thingiverse made by JulioHCD for a 624zz bearing, which I remade to fit the 608 bearing used on Mega Prusa Y idlers. I definitely wanted to use the Y belt idler provided by Aldric Negrier...

... cable more effectively. To install, print the new mount, remove the old ones and idler, and replace them with this one (it requires un-threading both front rods but is worth it for improved quality). ...Enjoy the enhanced pulley-to-cable connection!

I've had reports of the x-axis belt getting worn out by the x-axis idler pulley on my Prusa i3 MK2s printer. It happened to me too! After searching for a decent solution, I couldn't find one that fit my needs. So, I decided to remix the Prusa x-axis...

Idler Pulleys are attached to the X Carriage and Y Idler for optimal movement.

After upgrading my Prusa i3 rework from eMotion-Tech, I pinpointed a weak link: the x-axis idler block was a serious liability, and the entire printer urgently needed an easy way to fine-tune belt tension. Instead of the original setup's two...

However, the existing idler would allow only 1-2mm of range for tensioning (I'm thinking about future, if the belt gets significantly looser).I've changed the Prusa's Y idler by extending holes to be able to use longer screws. I've cut the belt for...

... files are now available for download. X-MotorHolder-1x-1.4.stl X-MotorHolder-Cover-1x-1.4.stl X-Idler-1x-1.3.stl 100% compatible with Prusa Mk2(S) and MMu upgrade, these parts are a game-changer. ... Download now from: http://zaribo.org/blog/stl

On my Prusa, the x rod tensioner screws causing belt tension also put stress on the z-axis motor mounts and top z-axis rod mounts at the top, resulting in excessive friction and binding. Since I needed just a bit more tension on the belt, I wanted to...

2) My idler bearing screw was ~1.5mm too long and interfered with the stepper. I replaced the screw with an m3x7.5mm screw. You could also just file down the stock screw. 3) If you swap out the drive gear for an MK7, you'll need to open up the hole...

... to keep it in place, which can actually weaken the base of the bearing holder. In fact, using screws to hold it down would have compromised its integrity even further. Thankfully, this modification has already saved me from breaking a second idler.

This custom end-idler is designed to work seamlessly with the Original Prusa i3 MK2S, featuring an outer diameter of 22mm and utilizing a T8 nut for optimal performance. There's also a version available that closely resembles the original design,...

The compressed part of a pinch wheel extruder, modeled after Wade's design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1794), is available in HeeksCAD for your customization convenience. ...This component is not meant to be printed but serves as a template for...

... for desired lock direction. Install longer M3 bolts to adjust tension correctly. For proper engagement, ensure the lever is fully engaged when "on." A recent update suggests M3 50mm cap screws are suitable for the idler, depending on spring choice.

I can tighten idler screew to not have  stopped filament, but than I had issues to work IR sensor right. I loose scree, IR sesor was working right, but sometime my filament stopped and start clicking. I tried all recommended steps but nothing...