extruder idler prusa 3d models

This is a customizable extruder idler/guider designed specifically for Greg's/Wade's extruders, featuring a replaceable filament guide that can be easily swapped out when it becomes worn down after extended use. By incorporating a removable guide,...

This is a custom extruder idler/guider designed to work seamlessly with Greg's or Wade's extruders, featuring an interchangeable filament guider that can be easily swapped out when it wears down after extended hours of printing. Rather than having to...

This is the proper design for the Titan extruder idler arm. The filament will always go properly inside. Also it has hole for zip tie to hold upper 4mm PTFE tube in place. The bottom PTFE 4mm tube just goes into the hole (the plastic insert part...

Hey Everyone, Here's My Conversion for the Y Axis Idler on a Prusa i3 - It's for a 624 Bearing.

This is the X-idler end for the Prusa i3 3D printer, specifically designed for the Geeetech I3 Pro, Pro B and Pro C models.

As it turns out, even with the most diligent tightening of the extruder idler's screws, the filament will inevitably slide off to one side or the other, bringing the printer's extrusion process to a grinding halt. It was clear that I needed a...

The original design is based on Schlot idler found at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275593. A bearing adapter was designed to make it possible to use again the Sunhokey stock extruder bearing. The idler now uses a mounting system that includes an...

To do this, this idler is now double-sided and its body has a slightly different shape to give the screw some support under tension, though most of the pressure will still go into the main body of the idler. Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap...

To simplify manual filament changes, this upgrade enhances the idler's usability significantly.

This is the upgraded version of the authentic Prusa (ebay) clone Tensioner Idler for both bed and Y Axis, now utilizing 2 conventional ball bearings, along with a bolt and nut sourced from a car battery connector - an industry-standard size that...

The axis of the original idler, which is black, is positioned about 1 millimeter higher than that of the extruder. This discrepancy can cause feeding issues with very pliable materials. ...I replicated the design and adjusted the ball bearing's position...

This is not my design, i needed this part because my idler broke, i could not find the stock standard part here so i found it online and i'm uploading it here for others to use.

The Prusa I3 X-end Idler is featured in this post, which I shared to easily provide the information to someone printing for me. ...Additionally, I noticed a Motor X-end listed, so I added the other required component for balance.

This is a specially designed Z Axis threaded rod idler for the Prusa I3 Rework, carefully crafted to perfectly fit with the original Z axis mounts. To successfully assemble this part, you'll need to print two essential shims that act as an interface...

The body of the idler was inspired by Thingiverse's item 13727 with one important difference - this design does not protrude on the idler side, allowing for use in dual extrusion setups. However, the force required to operate it can cause the lower...

The original Prusa Iteration 2 X-Idler misaligns the belt with the x-motor pulley. Pictures demonstrate this issue. By modifying the x-idler.scad file's code and adjusting dimensions, I resolved it. The updated code is: translate(v = [18.5, -21.5,...

I designed this, and I had to get a replacement since my idler failed. ...I couldn't locate the original component locally, so I bought an equivalent one online and I'm sharing it with you in case someone else needs it.

This is a bespoke Prusa MMU2 idler with some alterations.\r\n\r\nAs I've disassembled 2 of the original ones and encountered some difficulties with idler bearings being slightly too loose, I've designed this in Fusion based on the original. Fit and...

... the MF105ZZ Model, Measuring 5 x 10 x 4 mm, and You Will Need Two of These. Print Settings for Optimal Results: Printer: Prusa I3 Rafts: Not Particularly Relevant Supports: Irrelevant to This Project Infill: A Density of 25-40 is Recommended

Quick adjustment of the hypercube extruder to include a compact grip for swift filament ejection. ... Warning: fails to cut accurately when using Simplify3D, thanks to Ocyrus99 for the heads up.

Despite the extruder's weakened state, I managed to print a new arm with some manual assistance. It was an awkward process but resulted in a successful repair within 90 minutes of noticing the crack. ...The future is here, and our machines can even fix...

Small, nimble feet barely touch the ground as the human idler speeds effortlessly through life.

As you can see in the video it slots in as nicely as the original. Any issues, let me know and I'll see about improving the part. Print instructionsCategory: 3D Printer Extruders Summary The default idler splits between layers after repeated...

To assemble this idler, you'll need: 1 x 4mm bolt 1 x 4mm nut 1 x 5mm bolt 1 x 5mm nut 2 x 5mm washers 1 x 605Z bearing Place the bearing between the two washers and then insert it into the idler. Next, screw the 5mm bolt through and secure it with...

Modifications compared to stock MK3 idler door: - Slide in holes for the shaft instead of through hole - Cutout to have more clearance for the bondtech gear part () - Wider opening to use DIN125A nylon washers () - Cuts for nyloc nuts (*) *) These...

One 605Z bearing Place the bearing snugly between two of the washers before carefully inserting it into the idler mechanism. Next, secure the bearing firmly in place by screwing a 5mm bolt through it and tighten it with an opposing nut on the other...

Here are the key modifications I made compared to the original MK3 idler door: * Switched to slide-in holes for the shaft instead of through-holes * Added a cutout for extra clearance around the bondtech gear part (*) * Expanded the opening to...

Fairly dissatisfied with numerous Y-Idler tensioners, a determined hobbyist opted to take matters into their own hands and craft one from scratch. Ideally suited for printing on its side, additional scaffolding supports the bearing retainer...

The default idler frequently splits between layers after continuous tightening, and it's challenging to make it sufficiently firm on hobbed bolts cut deeper than their own bolt, which is known as the best hobbed bolt in the market. To resolve this...

I've been searching for an x-end idler that can tighten the belt, but so far I haven't found one that fits my requirements. The one I designed is as close to the original design as possible and extremely sturdy. You'll need a well-calibrated...