ender 5 plus vs ender 3 s1 plus 3d models

This is for mounting a BigTreeTech TFT35 E3 V3 (originally designed for Ender 3) with cutouts for SD card and USB port. Hardware Needed: 4 x M3x8 screws 2 x 4mm T-nuts with 2 x 4x8 screws When printing, take a 2.5mm drill bit and drill the four...

You may think that it's not Ender 5+ any more, but almost everything from the original kit is reused with minimal adjustments.That was the design intention:- no hassle with electronics: 100% ender5+- sturdy frame: I use locally available "Kombi...

This is a linear rail conversion for the Ender 5 Plus. It encompasses the XY&Z axis. I designed these parts because I was unhappy with most other mod variations of them. <b>Z Axis -</b> The Z axis parts were designed using the BLV MGN Cube as a...

Just added a side car for the BL touch since I imagine that most people have the BL touch as it came stock with the ender 5+. I printed the adapter in PLA, but you may want to go with PETG as it sits really close to the hot end, so we'll see how...

This is a Creality Ender 5 Hot Bed Cable Relief that I Remixed in TinkerCAD. I took the zip tie design and designed an attachment around it. The reason I designed it is because a lot of the other designs took way too long to print and took extra...

Filament runout sensor required a spacer to retain usability with a dual gear extruder. ... This spacer uses the 4 original screws, plus an additional 4 M3x6 screws through the back side.

... a smaller version to fit the right-front corner and the back-center. A M3-.50 nut is required. -------------------- front fan 4010 ender5 plus default fan 4010 fan grill right 5015 blower fan ender5 plus mod fix 2021-09-23 add all in one hotend

Plate to mount a Biqu H2 to the Ender 5+ Old nozzle to New Pictured above Nozzle to Probe -33,-11, Z should be same as stock mounts using 2 M3 x 8mm botls for the H2 and 2 M3x 8mm bolts (may want use a washer) and 2 m3 nuts for the Bl touch Bracket.

The original part designed be Xerber https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4727217 did not work with my Ender 5+, my Z rails are an extruded aluminum design and have an extra bit on the edge, instead of the flat bars pictured on the original design. ...

... you were homing your z axis then you need to re-level your bed carriage. This will help with that. This spacer is long enough that the stock Ender 5 + hotend will not be able to touch the bed when you tighten the z axis, so no fear of it crashing.

Dual Gear Extruder: This design was specifically developed for: https://www.amazon.com/WINSINN-Extruder-Creality-Upgraded-Aluminum/dp/B07SY745CF/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=dual+gear+extruder+ender+5&qid=1590272315&sr=8-2 This mount securely...

The design utilizes the existing metal bracket from the Ender5plus and an extremely well designed spool holder by Skrutt84 "Ender 3 - Filament holder DELUXE" https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114139 Parts: (2) M5x20 screws w/ bolts (6) M3 screws w/...

... If you like my Design please give me a like or a make. Thank you Print Settings Printer Brand: Creality Printer: Ender 5 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0,12 Infill: 99 Filament: CR-3D PLA Gold Category: 3D Printer Parts

Also, I don't know if this would work on the normal ender 5. I don't have one so I can't test it, but it should fit so maybe. Parts list: 2x 60T-20T closed loop GT2 belt and pullies, 5mm bore 2x 20T GT2 Pully, 5mm bore 6x 20T GT2 Pully idlers,...

I upgraded my E5 Plus to a SKR Mini E3 V2.0 and the Bigtreetech TFT V3.0. I printed this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4421077, but the screw holes of the PCB didn't align, so I remixed it with M3 threaded holes, shifted 1mm from the place...

This is a remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4647180 because having a micro se to sd adapter without a cover I could not use the original, plus this has the space to keep a spare sd. Allows access to the USB port. The bottom is open, if...

It's well-established that the Ender5 Plus power supply is woefully inadequate! Scrap it for a Meanwell 500W. To do so, you'll need to print two components: one will necessitate a T-nut and bolts longer than standard, along with some washers; the...

First time doing something like this, and there's still some unnecessary artifacts from my quick hob-job. Print Settings Printer Brand: Creality Printer: Ender 5Rafts: No Supports: NoResolution: .2 Infill: 100 Filament: [...

I was looking around for a kit I could download and print that would allow me to install linear rails on my new Ender5 plus, but the only one's I found were for the CoreXY conversion or with Y rails mounted on the side of the frame instead of on top....

Not sure what would be needed to get it to work with the stock Ender 5 + display The advantage of this is a slightly cleaner setup as the plate and red adapter Micro Swiss provides to attach the PTFE tubing are eliminated. This sensor detects if the...

Here's a simple, two piece model to update your Ender style hotend mount to direct drive. It looks great and lines up really well. Kind of a bear to install, but I was able to do it without taking anything off other than the bolts holding the idlers,...

Infill 60%, cubic, 4 walls Locking Nut - used to secure the height, not a necessity but a nice to have, infill 40% 3 walls 3 top 3 bottom, In general, i would suggest increasing the scale of x and y of all parts except the standoff M30x3.5 by 1% or...

Infill 60%, cubic, 4 walls Locking Nut - used to secure the height, not a necessity but a nice to have, infill 40% 3 walls 3 top 3 bottom, In general, i would suggest increasing the scale of x and y of all parts except the standoff M30x3.5 by 1% or...

3 changes from the original: 1. ...Remixed to fit the SKR 2 board 2. Combined two formats to allow for mounting the Creality or TH3D Mosfet on the same box 3. ...Added optional zip tie brackets for cable management

Then assemble everything, install it on the printer (brush_mount.stl should be as close to the bed as possible) and use this piece of Start gcode for your prints (this is my complete start gcode, but the important part is only between Begin/End of...

This Thing uses the Blokhead of dpetsel https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 I needed a light source to see what the Printer is printing.... ... So there is a holder for a COB/LED Light strip of 5-7cm to enlight the nozzle. ... Enjoy it ;-)

The upper front bar is lowered with 5,8 cm. Shorten the 2020 bar with a mitter saw and make a new thread (M5) in the bar. I use the original brackets and screws. I made 2 types of end cap for the 2020 (with a short and a long middlepoint). ... I made...

... made even more room for the belt clamp because this one still rubbed. Enjoy. Also, the offsets for this: Y: -17.5 mm X: -43.8 mm Z: -2.775 mm (This is to be determined by doing a first layer test, start with -2.500 so you don't scratch your bed!!!)

This is the Neopixel Ring i used:...

... keeping the hotend cables from catching the printer, so created a tall bracket to keep the cable up. ...since installing this (with two zip ties), i have not had any issues. Will need supports. i used supports with a 3-4% infill for easy removal.