ender 5 plus mods 3d models

blind plate for the E compartment if you use a RPI with klipperscreen

<p>Simple tool holder to keep all your tools in one spot.</p><p>Printed with 15% Infill and no supports needed.</p>

Original cable clip made longer so the cables are managed. ... You need 4x230mm,1x 400mm, 1x320mm and 1x100mm Hope somebody has something about this.

This is an adapter for a lamp I purchased on Amazon to illuminate my print bed. Lamp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HX2EVPS Mounting Hardware: 3x M5x20: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072L79FZX 3x M5 channel Nuts:...

Hole 10mm Bolt M3

<p>Remixed from this model on on Thingiverse <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4907069.">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4907069.</a> I wanted a cleaner better contained place to put the flush cutters. ...They now share a space in the back...

I no longer use the stock screen due to me running klipper and using a 7 inch screen. I needed extra cooling for my Manta M8P and this does the trick just fine. I can run 1.6 amps on my steppers without overheating. Attached is F3D and STL. ...I used...

Lets you move the mosfet and mount it to the side of the power supply If this saved you a bunch time, trouble,or a solution to and annoying problem feel free to tip me a buck for a coffee Print Settings Printer Brand: Prusa Printer: i3 MK3 Rafts: No...

I dident like the fact that the filament was behind the printer, but i did want the printer in a corner. loading and unloading was a problem and if the bed was in a wrong  position the spool was stuck. ... so i moved the spool holder and made this...

Simple bump stop to add mount on the front left top bar on the printer to stop the head from ramming the front (and the nozzle to possibly scrape on the lip of the build plate) if Y homing didn't go all the way to the bump stop.

Just extended the brackets from the original to close up the gap in between the brackets and widened the acrylic grooves

I didn't like how the cable loom just lay across the back of the frame, so I designed this support for it. It combines with a support for the Bowden tube, so the fitting isn't strained. Mounts to frame with T-nuts and I used zip ties to hold the...

The design has been revamped to securely clip onto the bar without requiring users to disassemble it first. Instead, the new version is optimized for seamless installation by attaching directly onto the bar. ... Remixed: The original model was...

I use the original M4 hole. ... 4 x M4 x 25 4 x M4 nut 4 x washer The upper part is used for spreading the weight and to lock the bolt.

I forgot to buy them online so I modeled them real quick, essential for a TH3D EZabl pro autolevel system. ...I hate HATE BLtouch

I Designed this with MatterControl... This is a custom build platform for use in Cura. ...Instructions for use can be found at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxCUYrvPCuA&list=PLbOcm6ghy5ZCQITk62Z0HB_02wOO8C0MQ&index=23&t=253s Thanks to...

I found that the original design had two very slight protrusions on the bottom surface preventing it from printing properly for me. I flattened the bottom. Still printing so we'll see if it fits! ... One version with and one without bltouch bracket

Didn't like the way the spool holder was on my E5+ stock, I now have easier access to it from the back and it doesn't slide and hit the bed as the printer is printing. ...Used M4*16 bolts with M4 T-nuts.

I noticed that after a while the version FanDuctEnder5-2_v7 is losing its shape due to the heat of the hot end. I added a new design: FanDuctEnder5-4_V19. This new design has more space around the nozzle. Airflow will be less concentrated, but the...

This is a cable clip to hold the wiring bundle against the upright 2020 extrusion

This Arm allows to place the extruder a bit over the Bed and therefore shortening the bowden tubing to around 43 cm, but measure yourself after installation, as it depends on hotend and extruder. The Arm is a bit flexible which acts as a vibration...

Prevent Cable Breakage with Ease! ...Simply Snap on a Ziptight and Go!

HOW I MAKE IT: <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RpIH-jXLHm8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> SPOOL...

Mise à jour de votre imprimante et de l’écran tactile d’origine en FrançaisEnder-5 Plus : carte mère d’origine ou silencieuse V2.2.1Ender-6 : Avec ou Sans BLTouchCR10MAX : carte mère d’origine   Le tutoriel fonctionne avec les cartes mères...

LCD Enclosure for the BTT, BigTreeTech TFT50 display to replace the Creality stock display on the Ender 5 Plus. (May work for Ender 5 Pro .. ...but I don’t have one to test)

Modification of Sections 5 & 6 involves removing the rear portion to expose the internal compartment, thereby granting access to the radio module, battery pack, servo unit, and compressed air storage container.

This is a mount that will allow you to use a Raspberry Pi 3B/3B+ with the UCTRONICS 3.5 inch touch screen mounted to your Ender 5 / Ender 5 Pro / Ender 5 Plus printer. There are 2 different mounts. ...One with the option of using a 4010 cooling fan.

This is a replacement enclosure for use with the Panda Pi 2.5 or 2.8 board with the Panda Display touch screen to replace the enclosure on the Ender 5 Plus. The reason I made this enclosure is the metal enclosure severely limits the Wi-Fi signal of...

This is a replacement enclosure for use with the Panda Pi 2.5 or 2.8 board with the Panda Display touch screen to replace the enclosure on the Ender 5 Plus. The reason I made this enclosure is the metal enclosure severely limits the Wi-Fi signal of...