ender 3 x axis not moving 3d models

<p>Screw List:&nbsp;<br>M4 T cap head Screw 8mmx3&nbsp;<br>M4 Screw 8mmx3&nbsp;<br>M8 Screw 25mm x1&nbsp;<br>M8 Bolt x1<br>&nbsp;</p><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://youtu.be/8Sjz9rYcRWo"></oembed></figure>

Display the colors of our mighty horde on a proud banner!

Well alright, what we have here is a purely cosmetic piece.. It serves no purpose other than to look cool compared to the stock QR sticker in the location in question.. That being said I designed the part to just clip on the housing so you can print...

Well alright, what we have here is a purely cosmetic piece.. It serves no purpose other than to look cool compared to the stock QR sticker in the location in question.. That being said I designed the part to just clip on the housing so you can print...

I'm obsessed with the Imperial cover design, but it lacked a matching element - the Extruder knob and fan cover didn't quite fit in. ...So, I cleverly combined them into one seamless unit.

I made a motor cover with a holder for the spade to loosen prints. ... I printed it with no top and under layers, with 50% triangular infill for better airflow

Remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3529623/ Cura slicing errors are now fixed. 5/10/2020 Update: I added a mirrored version for better viewing. The camera can be placed below with this new file. ...In Octoprint's "Webcam & Timelapse" section,...

This design was created using Tinkercad. ...You can modify it instantly at www.tinkercad.com/designs/iKMFMuO6zxD

This is a Remix

Carcasa del motor del eje z y final de carrera. ...Remodelado de objeto: 3271077 Para usar con mount plate de serie.

Easy to clean dust shield

<p>I wasn't a fan of the QR code on the printer. ... A few remixes later, and I had this part.</p> <p>After removing the QR code (it's just a sticker and it came right off), I applied a little glue from a glue stick (I know you have one laying around,...

I was drawn to the Logo Cap from Chir, but I wanted to ensure that my design could be easily disassembled if needed. To achieve this, I created a custom remix with an extended frame, allowing it to stand on its own without requiring glue. The...

A user uploaded a 3D model to Thingiverse, specifically design 3758125.

Y-Axis Endstop for Ender 3 with Dampered Motors The extruded feet on the back of this endstop prevent it from slipping over time. This feature is especially useful if you've upgraded your motors to Nema CNC stepper motors, which are slightly longer...

I needed to print this part to be able to use my belt tensioner when I attached the linear rails for the Ender 3 by funssor. They have apparently not tested these before selling them. Hope this helps someone! ... This is a remix from the awesome design...

z-axis stabilizer bracket, designed to accommodate 2 F684ZZ Flanged Bearing 4x9x4mm. ...If you have put a x-axis tensioner on your printer you can use the extra hardware and bearings to install the stabilizer. ...

The stock part mounts directly to the right side of the X gantry, providing vital support for the vertical axis and ensuring overall stability.

As a newcomer, I found it tough to recall what the X, Y, and/or Z axes did, and which way to turn the knob to move the nozzle or bed to my desired spot. So, I came up with this badge to keep a cheat sheet attached to the printer at all times,...

... guide (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015832), so you can use them without modification. Parts required: 1 x Z-axis guide 1 x ID 8mm OD 22mm (608) bearing 4 x M3 12mm screws 2 x M3 washers to secure the bearing 2 x M3 nuts 2 x M3 T-nuts

Here is the spun version of the original text: New X Axis Mount with effortless motor extraction and cable management points are included. ... V2.50 Rough prototype, unverified, still under development

A better solution is to move the z-axis switch instead. You can measure the z-error by using the display menu, and when you find the right height, you can adjust the switch precisely to match it. If the error is small (0.1-0.5 mm), you can use a...

It's somewhat challenging to discern this detail from the picture due to its predominantly black hue.\r\n\r\nTo create a simple spacer, I moved the z-axis stop 5.5mm upwards. ...This was accomplished by unscrewing the front plate of the motherboard...

You should verify that your print head can travel all the way up before printing, as there might be slight discrepancies in the distance between the Z axis and the aluminum frame. ... V2 - The gap between the Z axis and the aluminum frame has been...

I modified the bracket from the original design here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2757810 to fit the Ender-3 printer by shortening it in Blender using the STL file. To assemble, you'll need to print nine link_top.stl parts and nine...

Moving the carriage to the top will hold the lead screw in place to ensure the correct lateral placement. Link: Ball bearing: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07ZRGVQX6/ref=ewc_pr_img_2?smid=A1GVO9YBFJBXTT&psc=1 End Caps for Open V-Slot 2020...

I built an adapter to lift my Z-axis carriage plate above the Z-axis stepper motor so it clears.

Parts: KLF08 Bearings: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32793159224.html Ender 3 Rod: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32904246004.html GT2 Timing Pulley: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/33017482340.html GT2 Belt Joining:...