ender 3 to switchwire 3d models

I've cleverly incorporated an access point to the GPIO pins for easier manipulation.

To use this adapter, you'll need to add the following part: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4245219. ... Videos: * https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQJN7RCaNfU * https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OaQW8ayxWUU

I designed this as a nice slot to put my SD card into that would be strong and more flesh with the printer but to also have a mini usb port slot.

Remixed this part to add regular nuts instead of threaded inserts. ... Printed with CCTREE CF filament on Artillery Sidewinder X1.

simple stand to put cam ca 7cm higher, or you can use it for something else, see pictures of size.

This is a straightforward and convenient cable organizer that can be attached directly to the extruder motor on Creality printers. You'll only need a 3mm x 1mm strip-lock to tie down the cables securely. ... If you find this helpful, consider making a...

This is a simple, easy to print, cable organizer that you can put on the extruder motor on Creality printers. You only need a strip-lock (3mm x 1mm) to bind the cables. If you found this useful, please donate what you think it is worth to my...

... conflict with the adaptor for bltouch. ...The V1 may reduce the effectiveness of the fan. For the V2 I moved it mainly to the back of the printer, so it doesn't decrease the effectiveness. ... The fan screws need to be tight, or else it becomes loud.

... conflict with the adaptor for bltouch. ...The V1 may reduce the effectiveness of the fan. For the V2 I moved it mainly to the back of the printer, so it doesn't decrease the effectiveness. ... The fan screws need to be tight, or else it becomes loud.

**Untested Work in Progress** May 23, 2020 Reworked File for Easy Removal of Base Without Having to Take Off Direct Drive Bracket, Tweeted I dislike the fact that there's no way to remove the base without taking off the direct drive bracket. That's...

The bracket enables the cable chain to run vertically up to the factory extruder mount and then another chain horizontally to the direct drive extruder and hotend. Mounting is achieved using three M3 bolts and nuts. ... *NOTE* This bracket necessitated...

I have box I use to keep filaments and with a bowden tube exiting it and I wanted the bowden tube to go as close as possible to the extruder so I designed this adapter, you'll need a bowden tube mount 10mm & an M10 nut and optionally an M2 screw and...

The two coarse thread screws are reused to mount the pcb to the adapter, optional.Designed to move the y axis limit switch from proprietary plastic mounts to the 20xx aluminum extrusion. ...T-nut to channel mount allows fine adjustment of switch...

I tried to reuse parts without modifying them, however, I did have to shorten the motor output shaft by 0.25" (~5mm) to fit, so check for interference. Since the extruder stepper is longer than on a standard Afterburner, I also included the cable...

I tried to reuse parts without modifying them, however, I did have to shorten the motor output shaft by 0.25" to fit, so check for interference. Since the extruder stepper is longer than on a standard Afterburner, I also included the cable cover...

I used heated M3 inserts but you can just thread straight into the plastic for this light application.It's very important that you try to keep the PSU cover all metal, for safety reasons. ...Try to use a solution like this instead of printing a plastic...

... M3 inserts but you can just thread straight into the plastic for this light application. It's very important that you try to keep the PSU cover all metal, for safety reasons. ...Try to use a solution like this instead of printing a plastic cover.

It's a hardstop that mounts where the limit switches go to use sensorless homing. ...It's a copy of the 1923 style switch assembly.

It fits perfectly flush when I use the spacers to blow air inwards, but it can also be reversed to pull air out of the power supply unit, eliminating the need for those spacers altogether. The spacers are designed specifically for the original...

I craft a retro-fitted smartphone dashboard using an elderly mobile device as the primary interface to manage and operate OctoPrint.

I implement these safeguards to shield a critical component and sever the motor's connection when it fails, thus preventing damage to the drive IC of the motor. I incorporate ideas from fellow designers to enhance my own concepts. Below are links to...

This remix reworks https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3386628 to enable use of the dual gear extruder on a Creality CR-10 in direct drive setup. ...To make this work, you'll need two m3x30mm screws and one m3x25mm screw for the tension release arm.

Personally I prefer a clean part without any logo/arrows/emblems etc. ...I remixed this design to have none of those like in the original. Print this with front facing downwards to reduce necessary supports and cut down about an hour of printing time.

Due to the low availability of spare parts for CR6 i decided to make myself an adapter for hotend that i can mount hotend from creality cr 10. I have never done such things so process was very long and the result is awful, but it works! Works really...

This adapter can be used to connect two stock creality 4024 blower to a 40mm opening. They are held in place by M2 screws, but you could also print pins in the fitting size. I have also found that the 1.75mm filament makes a good temporary fixure....

I liked this mount, but I switched from the Logitech 9000 (which doesn't focus at close distances) to a manually-focused Arducam. ... A M3-.50 nut is required.

No more struggling to feed filament into the extruder thru the runout sensor. Such a little block, let it block out the frustration. This object was made in Tinkercad. ...Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8kPVvzndK9G

No more struggling to feed filament into the extruder thru the runout sensor. Such a little block, let it block out the frustration. This object was made in Tinkercad. ...Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8kPVvzndK9G

this is my first ever model i have created with tinkercad so this is a WIP i wanted to make a nozzle box that will sit on the top so i created this

Description: The color of the lamp shows you the status as follows: -Fade yellow: booting/connecting -Rainbow cycle: Printer is ready -False white light: blue to red -Printer is heating the bed, showing every 5°C from 30-60°C -Blue to green: Printer...