ender 3 pro gantry not level 3d models

Nachdem ich das Mainboard vom Ender in ein neues Gehäuse auf die Geräterückseite verlagert habe fehlte eine Endkappe. Hier ist sie. Einfach und ohne Eingepresstes Logo. ... Die FreeCAD original Datei enthält eine Tabelle mit Variablen für...

This is a compact 20x20 V-slot cover featuring an optimized design for easy assembly, complete with a precision-cut notch for seamless integration of the Ender Y-axis belt. ...To bring this component to life, print it flat-side-down without relying on...

Remix of www.thingiverse.com/thing:3129612, Fixed filment guide to the ender3 Pro sturture that can't be rotated. There are two angle of filment guide which are 90° and 45°. Requires a 608 bearing and an M3 bolt for the bearing retainer. ... 1 x...

This is a foot I designed for my Ender3 Pro using Fusion 360. ...Printing 4 of these would help to stabilise any printer that uses 2020 extrusion, I recommend buy a rubber pad that can be glues to the base of the feet to dampen vibrations

Set for leveling your bed with precision. 1. Dial_test_indicator 2. Cube holder for metal cube 10x10, high 5,10, e.t.c. ...(is essential when you want to have a Test_indicator permanently attached)

Can be fully 3-D printed and it is designed with additional support.

Can be fully 3-D printed and it is designed with additional support.

Printed in PLA at 0.2mm resolution, I used supports for the support arm, although they may not be essential. The resulting mount is incredibly strong and features adjustable angles up and down, making it ideal for timelapse videos and similar...

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Have not tested fit on any other Ender 3 variant. Prints without the need for any supports in just over 1 hr. Great for keeping any kind of debris or junk from making its way into the fan and subsequently your mainboard compartment. Printed in...

... style of the printer. There's one version with the Ender Logo (pretty tough to print in this small size) and a blank version included. ... I strongly suggest printing it with 100% infill to get maximum strength, especially for the snap-on clamps.

This is my design for the Ender drawer upgrade. Simply pull off the screen and you're good to go - no need to fiddle with the belts at all. The single, large drawer slides out smoothly without interfering with the belt adjusters, making it a breeze...

It features a V-slot bearing that perfectly aligns on my Pro machine. Required components: * A 8mm ID, 16mm OD, 5 mm wide Bearing - You can find it at https://openbuildspartstore.com/ball-bearing-625-2rs-5x16x5/ * Five 5mm x 20mm Screws - Get them...

... did not fit well on my power supply https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4796284. ...The fan 8015 rested against the transformer on the board, and the side walls were not adjacent to the housing by 0.5 mm. ... Slightly modified, now it fits perfectly.

Uses two old 10 led light strips from an old flashlight. ... Uses a high wattage resistor between the buck and switch so that the buck converter does not overheat.

You will need several screws to put the thing together (you need less than there are holes as I did not update it after the first print when I spotted some errors - but it works!) I also added space for a step-down converter to control the two 120mm...

I decided to do this remix because the system of the locks for the rails seemed somewhat complex to me, and also the cover is a little more personalized and easy to remove since it does not bother the power cable. ...Only the box has supports, the lid...

needed a place to store all the wires so they were not hanging everywhere, this is compatible with other designs ill link them here, I had to snip a small amount off for the light wiresuse 2mm button screws for the lidschain-...

... with your filament extruder. ...I sliced it with Cura. After checking the preview, I added a filament change from Black to Yellow for the front face of there logo. Just be sure you lay down a few layers of yellow, just one or two layers is not enough.

... ... No need to print side locks, just use two front main screws and one from the bottom. There are two versions of the box, one of which does not need screw inserts. ... You need M3 screw inserts M2x8 screws and M2 nuts are required for side locks

... of the Endstop cover. With this mount the screws are not long enough. I redesigned the cover to be shorter so the stock screws can be used. ...The cover has also had the endstop switch mount removed and a gold for stepper motors with longer drives.

... of the filament coil made by Chuck's design and modified by cerkit. ...It does not require extra screws and separates 5 cm from the printer, allowing any type of spool to be used while improving placement and centering it directly at the extruder.

... I have decided to design my own, which will satisfy my needs: 1. Making the arc from the spool to the extruder more smooth. 2. Guide the filament away from the Z-rod. 3. ...Easier and more secure installation of the guide arm to the top rail.

... is 0.4mm for a soso fit. ...plus measured all the tool so it would fit right.fits the 1.5,2,2.5,3,4,5 mm hex keys plus the 2 wrenches.if you have elephants foot things might need a bit convincing to fit at first otherwise it should be loose.

... to make the LED work. Proceed at your own risk!Notes: Mirror the "lightbar_edges.stl" in the slicer to get both the left and right edges.print the bars standing with the pegs facing up.For assembly you will need 3 pcs of 25mm M4 screws with nuts.

... to have a taper that matched the new size of the vents to save a bit of material and for aesthetics. ... There were also some rogue vertices on the interior near the vent exits, not sure how they affected airflow/print quality but they have been fixed.

... at home. So I decided on it. Now it turns on for 2-3 minutes and then turns off because the cooling is good. I originally cut the front with a laser from stainless steel. ... The front can also be printed, it will be good like mine made of metal

... designed for both models. PS. Add a small adjustable foot with screws to the upper left corner (at the back of the fan) of the power supply (3*8 screw and washer) to prevent tool support from slipping if you regularly move your printer.

... Remove plastic housing from PSU. Remove 3 wires from switch and run thru small square hole in back of switch box. Reconnect wires and mount switch box. Mount left and right supports to PSU, using stock holes. Then mount to structure. ... Enjoy!!

... Remove plastic housing from PSU. Remove 3 wires from switch and run thru small square hole in back of switch box. Reconnect wires and mount switch box. Mount left and right supports to PSU, using stock holes. Then mount to structure. ... Enjoy!!