enclosure for ender 5 plus 3d models

designed a spool holder that bolts onto the side of the printer via m4 bolts and T nuts. ...than you use a 1 inch diameter dowel for the spools to sit on. note uses drkztan's m4 t nuts. BOL8x M4x12 bolts4x M4x16 bolts12x M4 nuts2'x1" dowel rod

The chain is drawn with 0.4 nozzle tolearance, but is made extremely tight, the reason for this, is to prevent sag in the chain when its used for a few hrs. The chain need to be "worked" a little after assembly before its mounted on the printer. ...

I remixed the motor side riser to allow for the use of smaller 8-10mm M3, rather than 55mm. I have included an inner channel inside the motor riser so that it is possible to 'hide' the zip ties. I remixed the feet so that they would provide...

After that, the wheel will likely take the impact against the left side, but still allow for enough space for printing. Cap bolts and screw nuts can be found on Amazon in a 510-piece assortment:...

... to the two top rollers, and since my prints turned out quite tight, I was able to secure it using outside nuts. ...Ideally, however, it should be installed with an inside nut, preferably accompanied by a washer, as there are spaces for the bearing.

The carriage wheel spacers now fit through the part for a more secure location. A support tube now keeps the Bowden tube from flopping over to one side. I didn't like how the corrugated tube was bundling cables with the Bowden tube, so I removed...

... the arm. ...I hate when a design is cut off. It looks weird. I also made the mounting holes for M4 flat heat screws, as that was what I had on hand. ...I T-nuts are also from the filament sensor that came with my printer, so it's mostly re-use here.

Wanted to put my BigTreeTech SKR 2 board in the middle of the open space to have access to all sides of the inputs, including the USB port for a Raspberry Pi running Klipper, but Kersey Fabrication's mount pressed the inputs up against the case, so...

... with the outcome. However, the modified belt tensioners now lacked a stabilizing element for their inner arms to rest against. ...To address this issue and give the ends of the front vertical extrusions a finished look, I created these custom parts.

Wanted to put my BigTreeTech SKR 2 board in the middle of the open space to have access to all sides of the inputs, including the USB port for a Raspberry Pi running Klipper, but Kersey Fabrication's mount pressed the inputs up against the case, so...

For better results, I would double this to 8 for the top layer. A 25% infill is sufficient. I used a layer height of 0.12 for improved quality. This setting provides a more detailed finish on the final product. The back angle brackets only require...

This holder is designed specifically for an SD card extension cable. When upgrading your SKR board, you may find that access to the SD card becomes restricted. In such a case, this holder provides a convenient solution. To assemble the holder, you...

don't use tin based silicone since it's not high temperature resistant) For this model you need not more than 30ml of silicone in total (15ml A + 15ml B), but if you buy 500ml or 1000ml tare, you'll have a lot of fun creating molds and casting cool...

... 20x40 that mounts to the frame. 4.5mm hole for screw clearance, I suggest using a washer just in case. You will need 10mm screws and t-nuts. 608-2RS bearings. ... Update: Added a V2 with a 2mm shift to allow even the thinnest of bed surfaces.

... its original design, it mounts to the rear horizontal extrusion instead of the front, ensuring a clutter-free workspace. Additionally, it includes a built-in filament oiler, although this feature may not be as effective for Bowden setups like mine.

... shape (see pic). This change allows it to clip securely into place, preventing it from popping out too easily. Although some might not see this as a significant improvement, as someone who strives for perfection, I appreciate the change greatly.

I'm not a CAD expert, but Tinkercad has been a game-changer for me; it enables me to create simple yet effective tools that streamline my workflow without unnecessary flair. This particular design simply slips over the aluminum bed support bar...

I have the stl's for the plates. I used these as templates to cut them out of aluminum. I'll be uploading a parts list and some pictures to go along with this. Also instructions somewhat. ... ### stl's ### * Front bearing plate * Gantry plate *...

Hi, here you can find a case for the BTT TFT35 V3. It is put on so that SD and USB are available. You need 8 x Ruthex M3 nuts -...

On the bottom side the guide is mounted with 2 (M3x7) bolts and 2 M3 T-nuts or you can use 2 normal flat M3 nuts and print the T-nut design for it linked down in the list of materials. ... List of materials: Filamentswitch side of the guide: ...

I used M5x12mm bolts to replace the grub screws in the 60t pulleys for better grip. Lightly sand top of spacers so they're flat. Install: Loosen all 4 screws on the Z stepper couplers. Lower bed around 50mm by turning lead screws. Place...

This is a mix of the direct drive mount from paydayxray (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4310609) and the hot end side link from Gnizten (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4116655) This version has a 9mm Y offset to be compatible with HeroMe Gen 5

This is for the 4.3" screen for raspberry pi 4, the screen i used came with mounting for the pi on its back. ...use the spacers/washers when installing

I made a large 90 degree bracket for the 2020 extrusion. ...

Example link for part: https://www.amazon.de/Zeberoxyz-pieces-synchronous-aluminium-20-60T-8B-6/dp/B09TKZS2QB/ref=sr_1_14_sspa?crid=190Z703FWRH67 Note: I had to file down the 5mm rods for this mod, which seems to be necessary as the tolerances are...

Tronik's Lead Screw Stabilizer just didn't work for my bearings, so I remixed it. ...I print on draft 0.28mm with 20% infill.

... due to the double-width 2020 on those rails. ...These brackets are shortened up and made with a coupling to attach them in the center. Also, there are different brackets specifically for the back side with relief cut away for the Z-axis motor mount.

BL-Touch location: X: +8mm Y: -23mm Stuff needed * 2x 50x50x15 Fans * 6x M3x5 (if you dont have these M3x8 will work too) * 2X M3 insert (I used Ruthex if you have something else you may want to adjust the hole size for the part cooling duct) * 2x...

Designed to work with the [Universal E3D Hemera Part Cooling Duct v2.0 for 5015 Blower](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4121546) by [redangel1984](https://www.thingiverse.com/redangel1984/designs) I had to add 7mm of clearance for the wrap-around...

BL-Touch location:X: +8mmY: -23mm Stuff needed 2x 50x50x15 Fans 6x M3x5 (if you dont have these M3x8 will work too) 2X M3 insert (I used Ruthex if you have something else you may want to adjust the hole size for the part cooling duct) 2x M4x23  2X...