e3d v6 fan upgrade

It seamlessly integrates with E3D V6 hotends and BMG dual drive gears to ensure high reliability and maximum grip on filament, resulting in smoother prints every time. The Pikistruder is compatible with both original stepper motors and lighter...

DEUTSCH:Anycubic Vyper - Adapter for V6 E3D v.1.0 upgradeGenervt vom ewigem Nacharbeiten des Adapters von RyanMaverick, habe ich den Adapter nochmal nachgearbeitet und den unnötigen Steg herausgenommen.Nun passt der Adapter ziemlich gut (auf jeden...

I designed parts for Trianglelab 3:1 geared extruder, E3D V6 hotend, and Nema17 pancake stepper motor upgrade. The controller board is CKY-V6-191017 The stock extruder motor from Tronxy uses about 1.4 A, which was overheating the Nema17 pancake...

I designed this quick release spacer after the one I tried to use was very loose and not designed correctly. ...This one is as close as I can get to the original factory model except with the correct thickness for the E3D V6 Hotend.

Assemble the fan duct first - attach the 30mm fan to the 30mm fan duct (4x self tapping screws), attach the 5015 to the plate with 2x M3x20, snap onto 30mm fan duct and slide onto E3d V6, and secure with m3x30 or zip tie. Attach fan duct with M3x8...

This new version is as close as possible to the original factory model, but with the precise thickness required for the E3D V6 Hotend. ... Print Settings: Printer Brand: Robo 3D Printer Model: R1 ABS + PLA Model Rafts: None Supports: None Infill...

DEUTSCH:Anycubic Vyper - Adapter for V6 E3D v.1.0 upgradeGenervt vom ewigem Nacharbeiten des Adapters von RyanMaverick, habe ich den Adapter nochmal nachgearbeitet und den unnötigen Steg herausgenommen.Nun passt der Adapter ziemlich gut (auf jeden...

The front fan is specifically designed for the 30mm fan included with E3D bowden hotends. While it may not be enough for both hotends, I haven't experienced any cooling or print quality issues yet. This mount is intended to fit snugly onto the dual...

There's only one fan duct designed specifically for the E3D V6 clone hotend.

Due to sealed design, fan blows directly to the ribs of heatsink and air is forced to flow through ribs, because there is no space around heatsink, where air could bypass heatsink as it is in original design of effector. It has much more powerful...

This Smart Effector Fan Mount is compatible with both E3D V6 heat blocks and Volcano heat blocks. To use it, simply print the fan duct corresponding to your chosen heat block. Important Note: For Duet smart effector users, please use the Duet Smart...

This is my custom ender 3/CR10 fan mount for my V6 hot end. you need 3 3x20 screws for the hot end fan and 3 m3x20 nuts and screws for the parts cooling fan. It should be adjustable to your height, but no guarantee. ... Works for me better than the...

Compact hot end mount design, easy instalation, recommended adding connectors close to the head for hotend swapping, requires M3 threaded inserts. ... *added another version for no inserts Probe offset Nozzle-to-Probe offsets { X, Y, Z } #define...

I opted to steer clear of all the unconventional conversions floating around, instead choosing to keep my printer's design refreshingly straightforward. To achieve this, I crafted a spacer that effortlessly takes care of the task at hand when...

Manufactured with reinforced walls and precision-cutouts for secure mounting. ...Crafted from high-quality PETG material.

To enhance the assembly process, I extended the hole openings slightly to accommodate a zip tie. ...This allows for a snugger fit of the duct onto the Hotend.

Summary V2 improves bridging with a closer nozzle end. Printing Settings include: Printer - Malyan m200; Rafts - No; Supports - No; Resolution - 0.0875mm; Infill - 100%. ...Notes: Use ABS or PETG; For PETG, use the following settings: travel speed at...

<p>It has been tested for if it fits around the fins, did not test it if it fits with a hot end holder.</p> <p>Has been designed to be held with a m3 bolt and nut, but the holes are small enough where you can screw the m3 screw into the plastic...

There are some issues with the infill at the end of the print that can be resolved by going to Print Settings>Layer and perimeters>Quality(slower slicing) and activating Detect thin walls.

Take note: Designed specifically for a 25 millimeter screw, this project is purely intended for entertainment purposes only!

Work isn't proceeding very smoothly.

I got this made so it won't require adapters or extra screws.

Just mirror the STL to get the other side.

I've updated the design to version 2, drawing inspiration from the original thing found at Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2719129). ...A key improvement is the revised nozzle end, which enhances bridging capabilities.

Optimized airflow by adding a slight incline to the side cooling vents.

Made this to Fit a Firebay Peanut Fanduct on my custom 3d printer. ...I printed this in ABS and I was able to snap it onto my Hotend without it breaking.

Drill precise openings in the cap, expanding them to 2.5 millimeters. Next, carefully enlarge the holes within the duct piece to a diameter of 3 millimeters. ...Secure the entire assembly with four M3 x 6 cap screws tightly bolted into place.

I reimagined the original layout to incorporate a 40x40mm cooling unit.

It has been thoroughly checked to ensure a snug fit around the fins, although it hasn't undergone testing to verify compatibility with a hot end holder. This design has been engineered to be securely held in place using an M3 bolt and nut, but the...