e3d high temperature heated bed

Building the BLV mgn Cube - 3d printer, it's a big printer so why not using a BIG heated bed? I found the Creality Ender5 bed which is sold as a 350x350mm bed, but it's real size is 370x375mm ;-) And yes, it fits in the BLV design !!! What do you...

The only thing that bothered me about the connection was having to drill holes under my heated bed - it just didn't seem like the most elegant solution. So, I decided to create an adapter that would fit seamlessly into the existing setup, allowing me...

See here: https://youtu.be/2F9PKYtBUSE ### Fix 3 Swap the Y end stop and the Y axis motor so there is more space on the side of the heated bed cables ## Print You don't need supports for any part (flip cover so that the top is on the build plate). -...

This is a holder for the 3mm glass on a 3mm Anet A8 heated bed. I extended the side walls to ensure they stick about 0.2mm above the glass and added holes for a 3mm screw. Although the holders fit snugly, additional support is required. The screws...

Wanted to do the heated bed upgrade, couldn't find the power supply cover. I modified this from an existing one. You'll have to drill your own holes. Please remix and add holes if you're crafty enough. Note: This is a remix, Thingiverse cant find...

... ------------------------------------------------------------------------- I made this holder for insulation of heated beds. With this design, the heated bed remains adjustable. I'm not sure how long a rubber band can withstand the heat of the bed.

I designed these custom corner clips specifically for use with borosilicate glass plates on a heated bed measuring 214 x 214 mm that's part of a Prusa Mendel i2 3D printer. The dimensions can easily be adjusted within the SCAD file to suit your...

The Flashforge Creator Pro has a significant gap for the heated bed cable. Objects of considerable size can easily slip through this opening, so it's essential to print something that covers it completely. Print Settings Printer: Flashforge Creator...

You will also need: 2x elastic bands \I don't know how to use OpenScad, that is why I choose to make it customizable in Onshape under the following link:...

The heated bed control system is now tailored for easy adjustment using a standard screwdriver, eliminating the necessity of a wrench. This adaptation employs Nyloc M4 nuts secured with corresponding M4 screws. Built-in supports within the design...

There are 3 versions of the base now: * Bed-Level-Base.stl (the original short base, which will not allow clamping of the sides of the bed) * Bed-Level-V6-11mm-base.stl (new version for the heated bed only) * Bed-Level-V6-15mm-base.stl (new version...

The aluminum heated bed is drilled and tapped to accommodate mounting screws on its underside, eliminating visible screw heads from the top surface. This modification allows for the use of a borosilicate glass plate atop the aluminum plate. ...To...

For this screw you will have to use the strain relief part as a drill guide to drill a 1/8" hole in the print carriage for it to pass through. For the heated bed strain relief system you will need: ► (3) M3 x 10 socket or button head screws ► (2) M3...

CHOICE OF REPAIR SOLUTION Install a new heated bed power source and relay or solder equivalent longer wires to the bed or use the existing wires. This is a reasonable route for the wires. Existing wires connector clips should fit through the chain,...

Materials Needed: (1) Extra Snapmaker Heated Bed Cable (email support you will have to purchase another bed to get a spare wire). I now have 2 quick change beds with adapters. I also ordered extra x & z axis cables for another adapter project. I...

Please use filament that won't warp from your bed temperature. I used annealed MakerGeek's Raptor PLA which can handle up to 125°c. Requirements: 2 small zip ties 1 grub screw (spare part that came with the A8 - yeah, probably the one that was...

The Ender 3 S1 Plus has a slightly different heat bed cable positioning (and it's also bigger), so I mirrored the offset chain link to fit the specs. I also recommend printing the cable bracket link laid down with minimum support. ...I printed the parts...

This is my first thing - a remix of @cncartist's [QIDI Tech / Flashforge Creator Pro Interior Heated Bed Wire Hide Cover](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1495134).\r\n\r\nThe original design kept falling out of the hole as the wires moved around,...

This is a cutout to allow the heated bed cables/Y-axis to travel further into the IKEA Platsa cabinet. The version on the photos doesn't have a shim on the lid. The version uploaded does, as you can see in the 3D render. If anyone needs a...

... loose corners. Yes, printing with PLA is definitely an option - these clips won't interfere with the heated bed area. ...After thorough testing and implementation on my printer, I'm confident in their effectiveness and recommend giving them a try.

I build the Lack enclosure for my Ender 3 Pro but the cable of the heated bed constantly was bended in weird was at the back panel because a couple of centimeters were missing. My solution is a cable strain relief replacing the original which guides...

This is a simple pulley used to save the heated bed cable of a Snapmaker 2.0. The original design of the printer makes it easy for the cable to get stuck under the bed while it moves around, connecting the cable to a small weight through this pulley...

ANYCUBIC MEGA ZERO -\r\n\r\n20-25 EURO / 30 MINUTES MOD\r\n220V 200W HEATED BED MOD\r\n___\r\n\r\nCHECK REAL-TIME HEATING:\r\n\r\nhttps://youtu.be/U2MdlUz7nOY\r\n\r\nFIRMWARE WITHOUT PID FOR HEATED-BED (BANG), NO CLICKS FOR MECHANICAL...

This is a quick and dirty way for me to secure the wires for the heated bed to the back side of the printer. My intent with this design is that it's only temporary. The wiring for the bed, IMO, needs some kind of strain relief where the heater...

The SSR itself is carefully mounted without a heatsink to maximize its heat dissipation capabilities. This project box is tailored to utilize a standard plug, available at Amazon through this link: http://amzn.to/2hejnXb. ...I used a high-performance...

The mounts are designed to elevate the heated bed from its base by 12mm, creating a safe distance between the stepper motors and the electronics beneath the bed. My original design utilized only M3 screws, which is not ideal for mounting on the 2020...

Its primary function is to snugly fit around the heated bed's electrical connector, thereby ensuring it stays securely in place. By preventing separation and kinking behind the connection point, this device enhances the overall stability of the...

To secure it, I feed the heated bed plate cable through a thin edge slit on one end and push it centered inside this new slot until snug in place. I secure both the top and bottom entry points with a strong tie wrap at each corner, giving my system...

The adapter on the heating bed has built-in strain relief in the clamping area of ​​the M4 screws and the angled shape ensures that the cable is not pressed against the enclosure. There is also a minimalist holder without a drag chain link just for...

My Orca can't print this thing to scale so I used a Rostock Delta Mini Pro instead with an acrylic baseplate which comes pre-installed.\nTo be honest, no fixture is provided for securing the bed within the machine itself.\nSo I built my own...