e3d heatblock

In my experience 2 screws are enough but the design allows for four screws to be used.Make sure the heatblock of the hotend is facing the correct direction for the parts cooling fan duct to be effective as it's aimed at the nozzle tip. The heater...

In my experience 2 screws are enough but the design allows for four screws to be used.Make sure the heatblock of the hotend is facing the correct direction for the parts cooling fan duct to be effective as it's aimed at the nozzle tip. The heater...

In my experience 2 screws are enough but the design allows for four screws to be used.Make sure the heatblock of the hotend is facing the correct direction for the parts cooling fan duct to be effective as it's aimed at the nozzle tip. The heater...

I also am not using the stock extruder, i am using a Bondtech QR extruder that i mounted to the left side of the printer to avoid having the spool behind the printer.I have given credit to all of the designers that i remixed their parts but there are...

Here’s a page that can help if you don’t know how to set the VREF: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/VREF+Calibration+guide+DRV+8825/94 Now would also be a good time to flash the Arduino with the sketch I’ve provided and calibrate the clock. Note...

350mm aluminum heated bed (Mine is from here Optional parts 1x 40mm_e3d_cooling 1x frame_bottom (if you have a Replicape board to put in it) 1x frame_top if you have a Manga Screen 2 (or want one), the whole frame set 1x Ultibots' FSR kit for probing...

This is a nozzle box meant to hold the E3D V6 nozzle fun pack. This is a medium-hard skilled print as it requires tight tolerances and makes use of embedding both magnets and other 3D printed pieces. I have created a tutorial below on how to print...

Specs This firmware is configured for a Prusa Bear MK2S fitted with an Arduino RAMPS 1.4 and A4988. Power supply Original Prusa 12V 240W PSU Motherboard RAMPS 1.4 Printer frame Prusa i3 Bear Full Upgrade (MK2S) Prusa i3 Bear Printed parts on...

Here’s a page that can help if you don’t know how to set the VREF: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/VREF+Calibration+guide+DRV+8825/94 Now would also be a good time to flash the Arduino with the sketch I’ve provided and calibrate the clock. Note...

It's about 320mm cubed (1ft cubed). It's using 210mm, 230mm and 250mm 2020 Series Aluminum Extrusion but should be able to scale to anything (I think), you would just need to alter the Marlin configuration files and get longer rods, belts and a...

E3D V6 HotEnd is rated to 40°C ambient operating temperature. As you approach that temperature, cooling efficiency is reduced, allowing more heat up past the heatbreak. This can cause low temperature filament to soften in the mechanism to cause feed...

E3D V6 HotEnd is rated to 40°C ambient operating temperature. As you approach that temperature, cooling efficiency is reduced, allowing more heat up past the heatbreak. This can cause low temperature filament to soften in the mechanism to cause feed...

Thanks to the findings of Prusa Research, there is a of-the-shelf solution though: Go to the [E3D Online shop][5] and get the "Prusa specific heat break (MK2, MK3)". This one has a slightly larger bore (2.2 mm) than the standard ones, which makes...

I decided to switch max PWM for hotend back to 255, which mean it now heats up in under a minute, it will oscillate for a 20 seconds or so before stabilising, it is a very small mass on the mini hotend compared to an e3d with a large heater block. ...

E3D V6 HotEnd is rated to 40°C ambient operating temperature. As you approach that temperature, cooling efficiency is reduced, allowing more heat up past the heatbreak. This can cause low temperature filament to soften in the mechanism to cause feed...