cube pro heated bed 3d models

You must drill two M4 threaded holes into the frame pipes and three M4 threaded holes into the heated bed base plate, or equivalent inch threaded holes since the mounting holes in the brackets are 4.5mm. The cable needs to be extended by...

To resolve the issue of an unflat bed on your LC+ printer as it heats up, create four Side Clips and a Front Clip. These clips will help flatten the bed by clamping its edges. To install, slide the clips to the edge of the bed, rotated slightly, then...

I've upgraded my Velleman Vertex K8400's heating system with a brand new AC heated bed. To make it happen, I designed a custom mount for the required SSR (Fotek SSR-25DA or equivalent). It took some effort to get everything right. To build the...

Make sure the heated print bed and print head both sit flush on printer when moved from one direction to another - not skewed. 5. Once levels are set print any test pieces like an "M81 P20000" to verify temperature control. 6. Start printing at your...

Because the cable of the Snapmaker 2 heated bed has no strain relief I've created a small helper. Replaces the original "cable holder" - just remove the 2 M3 screws. Reuse the M3 nuts and screws in my design Extra materials needed: 2 pcs. screw...

This is my design for a sleek cable chain mount tailored specifically to the Witbox 3D printer, created as a direct solution to address the unsightly cables from the heated bed that would frequently hang loose inside the machine. I have crafted this...

I had seen only a few ways to control the heated bed cable, and keep it from catching on the linear modules. I did the cable chains for the rest of the axis, and figured why not do this too. The chain sits a good deal above the linear module, so...

My concerns involved the PLA part potentially warping due to direct contact with a heated bed from a Prusa Mendel i2 kit (purchased from Mixshop). However, after printing several items, it has worked well so far. To ensure a tight fit, I made the...

Making the Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:811271 required a crucial part - the Heated bed cable clip, which was missing and not included with the original build. I discovered that the builder had...

Upgrade Your Ultimaker 1 Heated Bed With a Superior Z-Endstop. Revamp Your Printer with Easier Installation and Enhanced Precision. Installations Disassemble the wooden supports to make way for your new improved Z-Endstops. First, print the front...

Here's my 220mm glass mount for a heated bed using FSR's bed leveling. I made some serious changes to a Folgertech Kossel so I could print ABS reliably without any issues. To secure the screws, I used a 3mm tap on the base - it really helped hold...

There was several times that the thumbscrews securing the print bed would become locked up after printing…even after cycling the bed temperature through various temperature ranges.  I modified the screw cover to provide a little more leverage in case...

I'm hesitant to share this review because the adapter was designed specifically for one particular heated bed, which I purchased from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEYT0B0/), and has a questionable reputation. You might have noticed...

They attach with just one M5 bolt, have a truss that hopefully enhances durability, and an elongated slot for the m3 bolt that attaches to the actual heated bed, making it more forgiving to mount a bed whose holes do not exactly match Tech2C's...

I often find myself lifting up the heated bed to access my electronics and then struggling to keep it secure while tinkering, so I created these holders to make the process easier. The gap fits snugly around a 4-5mm thick bed and the hooks are...

Order the Polyester tape from updated link 08/25/2014: http://www.laserbits.com/laser-supplies/masking-materials/sus-063-polyester-rigid-mask-medium-tack-6-in-25-yds.html for improved heated bed performance. It's preferred over Kapton due to its...

I've uploaded the fifth version of heated bed holders for everyone struggling with the same problem after bigger prints. After realizing that making my own design is the best way to solve 3D printer problems, it was time to create some new...

The heated bed connector enforcer secures the cable chain on the Y-axis. Two self-tapping screws measuring 2,2x6,5mm are required, along with 17 or more cable chain links (available at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2757810). To ensure stability,...

It's a precision-designed casting mold crafted to shape silicone into small, flexible rubber pads that securely fasten beneath the corners of a heated bed. Built to fit snugly over a 220mm x 220mm aluminum plate with 209mm center-to-center M3 screws,...

Clamping clips designed for securely holding IKEA Sorli mirrors in place on an MK3 heated bed. I wasn't content with existing solutions, so I created my own version. It took several trials to get it right, considering that the Sorli mirrors have...

This bracket was designed to provide strain relief for Makergear M2 heated bed wires, which on older models flex continuously during printing and cause the wires to break. It attaches to the spider using 20mm M3 screws that fit into the existing...

A robust and sturdy 3D Printable Build Platform/Heated Bed Standoff for the He3D K280 Mega Delta and many other delta 3D printers built with 20mm slotted extrusions. The design replaces the adjustable spring standoff supplied with the K280 kit, which...

A robust and sturdy 3D Printable Build Platform/Heated Bed Standoff for the He3D K280 Mega Delta and many other delta 3D printers built with 20mm slotted extrusions. The design replaces the adjustable spring standoff supplied with the K280 kit,...

This is an adapter for the Euclid Frameworks heated bed designed specifically for the 3DR Delta printer. It leverages existing holes in the 3DR base to avoid any modifications.\n\nInstructions\nWhen printing the adapter, consider placing it between...

This is a cable guide for the heated bed on a CR-10 mini printer. It was inspired by the CR-10 version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493628. Although I couldn't find it initially, I stumbled upon it later during one of my Thingiverse search...

Rapidly crafted a custom design for my personal heated mattress pad system.

Board: Bigtreetech SKR 1.3: https://bit.ly/2WTDNcl Display 1: Bigtreetech TFT35 Display 2: CR Ender 3 LCD Drivers: TMC 2208 (UART mode requires welding a jumper) Extruder: BMG clone: https://bit.ly/2X0En8a Hotend: V6 Threaded clone:...

A vital accessory for the Heated bed-cable of the 4MAX. This component can be installed without the need for screws, bolts, or nuts. Its design takes into account the shapes of the printer and, once securely positioned, it remains firmly in place. A...

After printing a couple of cable chains in PLA+ when starting printing PTEG the chains all deformed (due to the heat my guess)... so I wanted to print them in PTEG for durability. My curiosity got to me and I went around and looked what concepts are...

I designed this housing specifically to accommodate an add-on for my Prusa I3s heated bed, allowing me to house a Power Module with ease. This setup takes the load off of your control board, freeing up valuable resources. To keep things cool, I...