creality ender 5 plus upgrades 3d models
675686 3d models found related to creality ender 5 plus upgrades.thingiverse
ebder 5 plus microswiss mount setup. 3 screws mounting. you need 2xm4x60 2m20x4 and one screw and nut from an original roller wheel. this braket is used to be mounted under the cariage. each exoslide on the y axe must be mounted as shown...
thingiverse
Not sure what would be needed to get it to work with the stock Ender 5 + display The advantage of this is a slightly cleaner setup as the plate and red adapter Micro Swiss provides to attach the PTFE tubing are eliminated. This sensor detects if the...
thingiverse
... for heavy and expensive devices. Use an M4 x 25mm (or longer) screw and nut to mount it to the cornerpiece of your Ender 5 rack. For your camera, simply add the right screw (e.g., check this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:595837). ...
thingiverse
I tried using the original design on my Ender 5+, but unfortunately, the tabs for the screws were slightly too thick. Printing it with resin proved to be a challenge as well - the logo required extensive support structures, which made the process...
thingiverse
Just added a side car for the BL touch since I imagine that most people have the BL touch as it came stock with the ender 5+. I printed the adapter in PLA, but you may want to go with PETG as it sits really close to the hot end, so we'll see how...
thingiverse
Prolunga per sensore filo di crality ender 5 plus.
thingiverse
Plate to mount a Biqu H2 to the Ender 5+ Old nozzle to New Pictured above Nozzle to Probe -33,-11, Z should be same as stock mounts using 2 M3 x 8mm botls for the H2 and 2 M3x 8mm bolts (may want use a washer) and 2 m3 nuts for the Bl touch Bracket.
thingiverse
This is a linear rail conversion for the Ender 5 Plus. It encompasses the XY&Z axis. I designed these parts because I was unhappy with most other mod variations of them. <b>Z Axis -</b> The Z axis parts were designed using the BLV MGN Cube as a...
thingiverse
Ender 3/5 printer hotend cover. Works with Microswiss direct drive back plate. Carries 1 axial 4010 hotend cooling fan and 2 4020 radial work piece cooling fan. High temperature part. ...Print using fiberglass Nylon or Carbonfiber Nylon.
thingiverse
... you were homing your z axis then you need to re-level your bed carriage. This will help with that. This spacer is long enough that the stock Ender 5 + hotend will not be able to touch the bed when you tighten the z axis, so no fear of it crashing.
thingiverse
The original part designed be Xerber https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4727217 did not work with my Ender 5+, my Z rails are an extruded aluminum design and have an extra bit on the edge, instead of the flat bars pictured on the original design. ...
thingiverse
3 changes from the original: 1. ...Remixed to fit the SKR 2 board 2. Combined two formats to allow for mounting the Creality or TH3D Mosfet on the same box 3. ...Added optional zip tie brackets for cable management
thingiverse
you can technically use this if you're only upgrading the sides to rails and leaving the X using the wheels, for a gradual upgrade. Because lets be real, if you've gone this far, the X is getting a linear rail too. * Added an updated pully...
thingiverse
Also, I don't know if this would work on the normal ender 5. I don't have one so I can't test it, but it should fit so maybe. Parts list: 2x 60T-20T closed loop GT2 belt and pullies, 5mm bore 2x 20T GT2 Pully, 5mm bore 6x 20T GT2 Pully idlers,...
thingiverse
Filament runout sensor required a spacer to retain usability with a dual gear extruder. ... This spacer uses the 4 original screws, plus an additional 4 M3x6 screws through the back side.
thingiverse
... a smaller version to fit the right-front corner and the back-center. A M3-.50 nut is required. -------------------- front fan 4010 ender5 plus default fan 4010 fan grill right 5015 blower fan ender5 plus mod fix 2021-09-23 add all in one hotend
thingiverse
The idea is to make a mount for dual 5015 fans for blowing across the stock Creality MK8 heaterblock. An airdam at the bottom to block off the hotend from the fan air. I need to consider airflow upward, or outward for the dual fans. On the side I can...
thingiverse
This is for mounting a BigTreeTech TFT35 E3 V3 (originally designed for Ender 3) with cutouts for SD card and USB port. Hardware Needed: 4 x M3x8 screws 2 x 4mm T-nuts with 2 x 4x8 screws When printing, take a 2.5mm drill bit and drill the four...
thingiverse
This is a remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4647180 because having a micro se to sd adapter without a cover I could not use the original, plus this has the space to keep a spare sd. Allows access to the USB port. The bottom is open, if...
thingiverse
It's well-established that the Ender5 Plus power supply is woefully inadequate! Scrap it for a Meanwell 500W. To do so, you'll need to print two components: one will necessitate a T-nut and bolts longer than standard, along with some washers; the...
thingiverse
When upgrading your SKR board, you may find that access to the SD card becomes restricted. In such a case, this holder provides a convenient solution. To assemble the holder, you will require M3 bolts and nuts. These components are essential in...
thingiverse
The design utilizes the existing metal bracket from the Ender5plus and an extremely well designed spool holder by Skrutt84 "Ender 3 - Filament holder DELUXE" https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114139 Parts: (2) M5x20 screws w/ bolts (6) M3 screws w/...
thingiverse
I printed this with Creality Halot. ...I thought it was kind of funny to have this on my H0 layout.
thingiverse
This Thing uses the Blokhead of dpetsel https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 I needed a light source to see what the Printer is printing.... ... So there is a holder for a COB/LED Light strip of 5-7cm to enlight the nozzle. ... Enjoy it ;-)
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The upper front bar is lowered with 5,8 cm. Shorten the 2020 bar with a mitter saw and make a new thread (M5) in the bar. I use the original brackets and screws. I made 2 types of end cap for the 2020 (with a short and a long middlepoint). ... I made...
thingiverse
... made even more room for the belt clamp because this one still rubbed. Enjoy. Also, the offsets for this: Y: -17.5 mm X: -43.8 mm Z: -2.775 mm (This is to be determined by doing a first layer test, start with -2.500 so you don't scratch your bed!!!)
cults3d
Infill 60%, cubic, 4 walls Locking Nut - used to secure the height, not a necessity but a nice to have, infill 40% 3 walls 3 top 3 bottom, In general, i would suggest increasing the scale of x and y of all parts except the standoff M30x3.5 by 1% or...
thingiverse
Infill 60%, cubic, 4 walls Locking Nut - used to secure the height, not a necessity but a nice to have, infill 40% 3 walls 3 top 3 bottom, In general, i would suggest increasing the scale of x and y of all parts except the standoff M30x3.5 by 1% or...