creality dual z axis 3d models

This upgrade boosts the living conditions for Creality printers by taming the unruly z-rod movement within its enclosure at the printer's top. ...The result is a notable decrease in noisy rattling, without any impact on print quality itself.

This is my take on a combined dual Z and X-axis stabiliser designed specifically for the PrimaCreator P120, but it should also work seamlessly with the MP select mini. I've drawn inspiration from other remarkable works created by incredibly talented...

This is a rapid-fire reworked lower right corner bracket for NinjaCookie's Single Motor Dual Z. It includes a mount for the mechanical Z endstop. ...Use thingirob's Adjustable Z End Stop for the upper part of the bracket.

Testing out a dual z axis on a Ender 3 Pro with 4 to 1 geared upgrade mount. Just a word of caution when trying these designs. Use absolute best material for heat deflection AND strength. PETG/ABS/NYLON/etc will do but use quality. And also make sure...

Therefore, I acquired some 1/8" borosilicate glass and designed this sleek little spacer to offset the Z-axis home switch in order to accommodate the glass. Print Settings Printer: Monoprice 11614 ...

This is my take on the AndreasL alternative dual Z axis for SmarTrapCore (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:896556), remixed to fit the aluminum 2020 frame version. I've reoriented the axis so it sits front-to-back, not left-to-right, to prevent...

It was a little too low and often touched my belt that controls my dual z axis, so I needed it higher up but I don't like the side mount notion. I chopped up and used part of the mesh from regularlabs here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3544593...

It was a little too low and often touched my belt that controls my dual z axis, so I needed it higher up but I don't like the side mount notion. I chopped up and used part of the mesh from regularlabs here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3544593...

UPDATE : Corrected Belt dimensions in the BOM Here is my Dual Leadscrew Z-axis Mod for the K8200 (3drag). It makes the z-arm much more sturdy and results in a lot smoother prints. It is based on my hanging z axis mount...

I believe it is caused by off-axis loading from x axis belt tension, as the x axis belt is not in line with the 10mm z shaft, and the x axis shafts are not held especially securely by the set screws. I thought an easy fix would be to add two...

I made this display box for my ender 5 Pro after I upgraded to a left/right dual Z axis and changed the orientation of the power supply box. I paid special attention to the bezel around the screen so it fits snuggly and only the screen's glass shows....

I tweaked several components of Boydrone's FLSUN i3 x/z redesign found on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2116748) and created some new ones to upgrade my printer to a dual extruder setup. ...I utilized the head design from Thingiverse...

A straightforward solution is simply to adjust the Z-stop placement to an optimal location.

Caster’s “CR-10 Dual Z axis with single stepper” https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2569379 fits perfectly on the Ender Extender 400 mod, except that the Extender’s top frame is too wide (400mm for the CR-10, 500mm for the EnderExtender) for the...

Ender-3 Pro Y Axis Dual LM Guide Upgrade Utilizing two MGN12 linear rails, each measuring L300 in length Eight M3x10 bolts are required for assembly Eight M3 washers will also be necessary to secure the components Four M5x15 flat head bolts provide...

I've been considering whether the stiffness of a single 8mm rod on the z-axis is sufficient, so I'm thinking about using a single 10mm rod instead. But upon converting the y-axis from 8mm to 10mm, I still have two 8mm linear rods left over. The...

... as long as both sides are equal. After levelling the gantry, use the move menu to travel the Z axis all the way up and back down then measure it again. Keep adjusting until it stays level. ...The Z end-stop will need to be relocated as pictured.

... as long as both sides are equal. After levelling the gantry, use the move menu to travel the Z axis all the way up and back down then measure it again. Keep adjusting until it stays level. ...The Z end-stop will need to be relocated as pictured.

To be used in combination with the original design if you run a dual Z stepper solution. ... Requires: 2x M4 T-nut 2x M4x12 screw to use in the T-nut 2x M3x16 for stepper motor at the base of the mount 2x M3x8 for stepper motor at the far end of the...

To be used in combination with the original design if you run a dual Z stepper solution. Requires: 2x M4 T-nut 2x M4x12 screw to use in the T-nut 2x M3x16 for stepper motor at the base of the mount 2x M3x8 for stepper motor at the far end of...

The lead screw wasn't binding but felt a bit too tight, so I created a new z-mount and now it's running very smoothly. I've been able to adjust for perfect alignment. The motor mount screws are also the same size. ...However, the T-nut screws need to be...

This is a handy 1.5mm bed spacer designed to drop your bed down on the Z-Axis for attaching items like PEI sheets above the glass or if you have a bed that can't adjust low enough to level correctly. You may want to add supports on overhangs to...

I wasn't happy with the brackets that came with my dual Z stepper upgrade kit - so I designed some new ones that are stronger and also have slots in so you can adjust the height of the power supply. You can even lower the power supply so it is flush...

Additionally, I needed more space on the right side of the frame for my direct feed petsfang and chose to integrate it with z-axis support taken from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2739921, an upgrade based on Cater’s original design at...

The double Z axis drive with the frame stiffening allows for precise adjustment of the angles and minimizes frame vibrations, which translates into the quality of prints. ... needed parts Belt 2GT - 2x 880mm ( pas zębaty 2GT ) Belt 2GT - 188mm ( pas...

The CR10 boasts an impressive single Z axis leadscrew, producing superb prints without any issues for me. From an engineering standpoint, however, it would be even better to feature leadscrews at both ends. Fortunately, there's an upgrade kit...

I think it has enough room for motor wire and z axis. You can print the whole box and mount or print them seperately. Bolts from the stock setting are needed. Two more m4 bolts can tight the box and mount together if you print them seperately. ... ...

This is a revised version of frans84's CR-10 timing belt design, lengthened to accommodate a 976mm timing belt on the CR-10S 400 and CR-10 S4. ...Download all other parts from his page, then swap out the z-tensioner for this one.

This two-piece part replaces the Creality CR-10's (Ender 2 and 3 or Tevo tornado, etc...) Z-axis lead screw; It allows you to manually control the hot end up and down (when steppers are disabled), which I have found to be VERY handy at times. You...

I added a second z screw and motor to my Longer LK5 Pro hoping to get better stability on tall prints. As a side effect the X gantry needs constant tramming. This would not be a big deal if we had individual motor controllers. In this case, we don't....