creality cr 10 y axis pulley 3d models

For those of you that have installed the dual Z upgrade on your CR-10 I have reworked the brace file to mount to the side of the printer. The rod length is 20 1/2 inches. You will lose about 1 1/2 inches of Z height with this setup. ...Please refer to...

This is a versatile led strip holder that securely latches into the X axis extrusion slot of your CR-10 3D printer. Simply attach a led strip to the bottom and enjoy the warm glow as it illuminates the bed during long printing sessions. This design...

Over time, my CR-10's X-axis becomes misaligned so I designed this guide to make it simple to check and realign. Screw them into your extrusion with 2 M4 screws and T-nuts. I leave them on all the time, just slid forward in the slots so the hot end...

Hello i have changed the Belt Tensioner https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4362513 for my own CR-10 V2. Now I can mount it without nuts in the Profile. ...

For those who have installed the dual Z upgrade on their CR-10, I've revised the brace file to securely attach it to the side of the printer. The rod length measures exactly 20.5 inches. With this setup, you'll experience a loss of approximately 1.5...

CR-10 Mini Z-Axis Brace Brackets, Designed for Maximum Versatility These brackets will probably fit other CR-10/Ender series printers with some threaded rod length adjustments. The upper bracket is long enough to clear the print head assembly and a...

On my new Creality CR-20, I quickly discovered that when I homed the extruder, the nozzle wouldn't align with the bed - it was actually positioned about 4mm ahead of it. My attention then turned to the Y stop assembly, where two noticeable problems...

I've had the CR-10 S5 for two weeks now. The X cables and bowden tube kept slipping off the print bed and dragging across my prints. ...I took this mod from Dr Boo's file, streamlined it by removing unnecessary segments, reduced the remaining one to...

This is an adjustable mount for the X axis endstop to suit the CR-10/CR-10S. The design is based on the stock endstop mount but allows for an adjustment range of 8mm allowing the nozzle to be centered within the printer's build platform. ...No...

This is my remix on CR-10 from [Biffo318](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551763/). Hotend is used by [Greg191134](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3080548/). He deleted it, I don't know why.</p> The non-branded version is from...

After upgrading my CR-10 with dual-z, I discovered that the two factory-supplied lead screw top mounts varied in size by several millimeters. These replacement mounts keep the lead screw at the same distance as the stepper motor at the bottom,...

I printed the original for my CR10-S5 but had some issues with clearances on the heated bed. I made some modifications to this to improve the fitment with the S5 version that has the aluminum supports under the bed. I also wanted to add...

Original designer saved stl file in ... i guess in decimeters instead of milimeters, i just simply scaled it up to correct size. ...Printed and checked, size is correct now.

I expanded the interior walls of my sliders by 1.8mm to accommodate two M4 washers, allowing bearings to sit more comfortably. The rest of the files remained unchanged. ... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2562946 To view the cover photo in full...

Move end sensor mounting bracket to secure sensor in place. ...On stock setups, the wheel hits the sensor with great force, but with this adjustable bracket, the bed now makes contact instead, allowing for easy fine-tuning of sensor position.

The new bed end of the drag chain was giving me trouble, so I rebuilt it from scratch. This updated version has holes for zip ties in different locations, but should function identically to the original. I corrected some irregular geometry and made...

... - These will add extra stability to the entire system, ensuring it functions flawlessly. 1 x M4 Nut - This will provide a solid base for the rest of the hardware. Be sure to check back regularly, as I'll be uploading my Y Axis Belt Tensioner soon.

I installed an e3dv6 clone with Volcano on my CR-10, and while things worked out okay, I had to adjust maybe 3 or 4 threads to get my bed just right. At some point (2-1) the bed started flapping around, so I didn't feel comfortable being at the edge....

I crafted a comprehensive guide focusing on the X axis, carefully routing the cable along its path to achieve optimal functionality and aesthetic appeal.

This thing slots in nicely into the profiles of the printer frame and allows to exactly level the x-axis gantry.

... lower extrusion. They allow you to adjust the Z axis so that the cross-beam of the X-axis is perfectly level. ... Note: When leveling, make sure to pull back on the plastic strips at the bottom frame to prevent them from throwing off your alignment.

Designers unveil sleek new Z-axis knob concept. The innovative design prioritizes functionality and user experience. Aesthetically pleasing lines and clean edges create a visually appealing interface. ...Intuitive tactile feedback ensures effortless...

I'm working on upgrading Caster's dual Z-axis, but I've hit a roadblock - the screws needed for mounting this part are nowhere to be found, so I've had to get creative and combine two parts instead.

This is a crucial component that ensures proper alignment of the X-axis right mount bearing. ...It centers the belt precisely at the heart of the rail, rather than allowing it to sit off-center like standard equipment.

As I examine my Z-Axis Stepper, I notice that it's not precisely aligned with the threaded rod. This misalignment puts excessive stress and force on the Z-Axis Coupler. To correct this issue, I created a simple 1mm spacer that fits between the stock...

This remix drops the pulley to avoid this misalignment and some other minor changes for better fit (at least on my machine). You will need a M5x25 hex head bolt and matching nut to install in puller and a M4x25 socket cap bolt and matching nut to...

To assemble this custom design, you'll need an M5x25 hex head bolt and a matching nut for the puller, as well as an M4x25 socket cap bolt and its corresponding nut for mounting the pulley in the puller. Initially, I used a nylon lock nut on the M5...

... a work in progress, I'll be continually tweaking the design to make the mount release more smoothly and possibly adding support for other cameras. The end result will allow your camera to move effortlessly up and down along the Z-axis path.

... reason for creating it was to take full advantage of 3.0 x 10mm bolts. Included are the source files. Update June 26, 2018: I have made some adjustments to the following files: - X-axis mount v2.1 - Chain end passive v2.1 - Chain end active v2.1

... design. ...Made in Fusion 360. The main reason to do it was to utilize 3,0 x 10mm bolts. Source files are included. Update 2018/06/26: I have adjusted a bit the following files: - x-axis mount v2.1 - chain end passive v2.1 - chain end active v2.1