cr 10 s5 3d models

Skull Tower Legs for the Creality CR-10 Printers - A Space-Saving Solution. These innovative legs elevate your printer by 16.5cm, freeing up valuable desk space to store the control unit and other essentials. This clever design gives you more room to...

Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/flowalistik Donations: http://www.paypal.me/flowalistik I've designed 3D printable legs for the Creality CR-10 and other aluminum extrusion compatible printers. Each leg is 120mm tall, providing ample space to place...

Print Settings Printer brand: Creality Printer: CR-10S Supports: Yes Resolution: .2 Infill: 50% Category: 3D Printer Extruders

Standalone Enclosure for the CR-10 V2. The power supply and board fit perfectly Plug & Play, only the cables from the input connector to the power supply need to be extended. It is designed for a Raspberry Pi, 2x Relays, and a Stepdown converter.

A link to the spacers: https://www.mcmaster.com/92871A361/ Update 10/16/20 While going through my Linear rail/lightweight sled projects I decided that weight matters on the Y axis. Ringing and all of that. One thing I decided I could save weight...

I was using Dr Boo's squash ball feet, which worked amazingly well, but my CR-10 controller failed and the MKS Gen V1.4 replacement wouldn't fit inside the controller box, so I decided to ditch the box and put everything on or under the printer...

(Personally, I'm not convinced of the benefits of squash-ball feet, as they seem to increase ringing artefacts on printouts.) By the way, the standard CR-10 filament holder can be installed on the top of the printer, with no modifications to the...

It's a fully printed enclosure for the CR-10 that really works well! I had tried ABS and nylon on the printer before with some pretty bad warping issues, but it was all about keeping the heat around the part instead of letting it float away and warm...

We connected the main power line from the CR-10 to relay 1's center post using 16 guage wire, then linked relay 1 to the main power on the motherboard with smaller wires. We used the following components: Raspberry Pi 3b:...

This is primarily a remix of Kiayoto's CR-10 enclosure. I removed the lower section of that enclosure and modded several pieces of the original. I had printed all of the original parts then made adjustments to suit my needs. I also modded the...

Hopefully this beacon will speed my CR-10s up when I throw some speed 3 modules in it. ... It might not be compltely flat so it wont hurt to lower it down into the build plate .1mm or so https://youtu.be/-ptA6_WomfQ

Hopefully this beacon will give my CR-10s a boost in speed when I install some speed 3 modules. It might not be perfectly level, but lowering it down into the build plate by just 0.1mm should make no difference at all. ...Check out this video for more...

My CR-10S has been converted to be all-in-one, so the feet dimensions are probably different than a stock CR-10S. Additionally, there is no control box that needs space to the side. It screws in with #8 1/2" wood screws to assemble the back supports...

I did a fair amount of searching and wasn't satisfied with the cost or design of several of the enclosures available for the CR-10 and other larger printers, so I decided to design my own. This enclosure is fully-customizable and can be scaled up or...

My CR-10S has been converted to be [all-in-one](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3513661), so the feet dimensions are probably different than a stock CR-10S. Additionally, there is no control box that needs space to the side. It screws in with...

I created this frame because I wanted to gradually move the contents of my CR-10 control box underneath the printer. I'm using 2040 aluminum extrusion. Two pieces were cut for the entire length of the "Y" axis, and two more were cut for the entire...

... you need to print all additional parts - door and hinges.) Print with support and skirt. Pictures are from the first design with 2 mm walls. The second design comes with 3mm walls. https://pinshape.com/items/44114-3d-printed-cr-10-s-enclosure

At the Creality CR-10S S5, there's not a lot of space between the screw and frame. That's why I came up with a solution to this problem. You won't need any additional support for this fix. Here are the settings I used: I printed it using PLA at 210...

Although I had already replaced most of my printer's original extruder and hot end parts, I wanted this new setup to reuse as many of the original parts as possible from my Creality CR-10S when I bought it. The resulting system consists of two main...

Ventilation cut-outs on the CR-10S proved subpar; I had to enlarge holes for improved airflow and install wire-mesh guards around each fan. A custom adapter plate was 3D printed for seamless integration with these new guards. Additionally, I drilled...

A humble light fixture that required only a brief 10-minute creative spark to bring to life.

Initially, I found the concept intriguing but realized it wouldn't suit my Creality CR-10S due to its relatively low profile. ... To rectify this issue, I embarked on a complete redesign, incorporating several key modifications: -the ring has been...

I then came across tinymachines shipping their CR-10s equipped with spring caps, which got me thinking. So, I quickly whipped up some caps using Tinkercad. It's probably a good safety precaution to prevent springs from digging in and causing...

... screw for one that's approximately 8mm in size. Cut a foam pad to 34x49mm and attach it securely to the piece. Keep in mind that the hole needs to be precisely 10 mm deep, so make sure to purchase foam that's thicker than this minimum requirement.

A precision-cut hole, measuring 10.5mm in diameter, securely cradles the pen in place with a clamping screw that keeps it firmly attached, all without requiring removal of the metal fan box. ...This thoughtful redesign also elevates the pen holder above...

The wood piece sizes are as follows: Front/Back - 18 inches by 25.5 inches (the door is however big you want it to be) Right Side (Front) - 12.5 inches by 25.5 inches Right Side (Back) - 11 inches by 25.5 inches Left Side (Front) - 12 inches by 25.5...

To complete this project, you'll require the following additional parts: - Flat LCD 10-Pin Ribbon Cable (50cm) https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BI009A6/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - 12 to 16 Gauge wire; I used 12 gauge, which was...

Firmware: https://www.dropbox.com/s/04qdk2hp6wgbifb/Firmware%20-%20Cr_10_TMC%202100.rar?dl=0. ...Links:...

Inspired by the Frame Braces, TomExplorador created on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2491003), I designed my own frame braces/z axis stabilizers for my Creality CR-10s S5, the 500x500x500 version. No building space loss occurs on...

It has IEC320 input with fuse and switch as well as an outlet for the mains voltage heated bed I switched my CR-10 S5 to. This has been such a huge performance improvement! This comes with a replacement port to let you use a 4 pin connector...