cr 10 dual z sync 3d models
399784 3d models found related to cr 10 dual z sync.thingiverse
You won't need an infinitely adjustable Z height because you can level the bed, but you'll still have to raise the nozzle from "auto home" since your build plate is already elevated. This print is a quick and easy fix that doesn't require taking...
thingiverse
Pros: - Exceptional cooling performance - No air dumping down on the part when you don't need it, ideal for PETG and TPU materials - Weighs 20 grams less than the stock setup - Clear view of the nozzle, easy to clean up stray filament Cons: -...
prusaprinters
Replacement part for the CR-10 Z rod top brace. One variant holds the stock bearing. Another variant is bearing-free, in case the bearing is too tight. Another variant uses a standard 608zz or 608rs bearing. Two M3 x 14 screws are used to attach the...
thingiverse
I recently purchased my CR-10 and noticed the Z axis rod arrived slightly bent. This caused significant wobbling, resulting in print artifacts. Unable to find a suitable replacement, I decided to design one myself. My new rod is designed for easy...
thingiverse
Adjustable bracket for CR-10 z axis limit switch. Users can now utilize thicker glass beds while maintaining the full range of bed adjuster screws. This adapter is also beneficial for those with a laser attachment and a wood plate on the bed, as it...
thingiverse
Z-Axis Steppermotor clamp is designed for CR-10, requiring no additional screws. However, the top screws are slightly too long, necessitating a spacer, washer, or bigger nut to secure them properly, while also ensuring free movement of the heat bed....
thingiverse
There are adjustable z stops on this setup for the CR-10, all but one don't have adjusters, so you loosen the screws while holding the plate and trust that you can move it point five millimeters then hold it tight while tightening the screws back up....
thingiverse
For example, "Creality" uses bearing blocks at the end of the Z axis in the CR-10s printer. They only allow movements in the Y direction. There are tons of videos on YouTube about Z-axis wobbling. Find your own conclusion. My personal...
thingiverse
3D printed parts for use with the plate listed here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/916768217/3d-printer-y-carriage-curtisy-plate Plate can be used with dual linear rails and mgn12h carriages or dual 2020 extrusion using the stock wheels from the Y and...
thingiverse
This secures the CR-10's Z rod in place with high clearance to avoid contact with the X axis bar at 410mm. Attach using M3 screws and wingnuts. Initially, the original screws were too long and interfered with the X axis bar. Insert the original...
thingiverse
Wanted a dual blower from both sides of the nozzle for my CR10 Smart. There is nothing on thiniverse currently. I made one for the stock 4010 blower but it didn't cut it so slapped this together for a 5015. This fits up using original screws from the...
thingiverse
Here's a link to OneMake's original thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2462029 Things you need: A Creality endstop (works with CR-10(s), might be compatible with other Creality machines) 1x M3x35 countersunk screw (for mounting the lid to the...
thingiverse
This is a dual 50mm Fan mod for the Creality CR10 dubbed "Batfang." It leverages the stock hotend shroud and press fits into position. The current settings ensure a snug fit, preventing any movement. The Batfang features three components: a body and...
thingiverse
Hello i have changed the Belt Tensioner https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4362513 for my own CR-10 V2. Now I can mount it without nuts in the Profile. ...
thingiverse
I wasn't quite satisfied with the design of any CR-10 Z-braces I'd seen, and I had some carbon fiber tubes left over from other projects, so I decided to model some little mounting brackets in Blender and put them to use. You will need: M5 tap, to...
thingiverse
Here is my 6-8 month build of a Hemera mount Listed the whole thing as a remix as I copied the slots on the cooling wings Base Parts Needed: Four M3x5 and some four*M3x15 for the fans, and four similar for an endstop Printed: One of each except two...
thingiverse
Ethan really needs your support, and his goal is to reach 500 subscribers: http://goo.gl/ELT7ii I added M3 threads to [mars_null](https://www.thingiverse.com/mars_null/about)'s [Adjustable CR-10 Z endstop](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2349068),...
thingiverse
Therefore, I wanted something similar for my new Creality CR-10 S5. donnyb99 designed the https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2158261, but it lacks the fine adjustment yet. So here it is. #### Usage: - Turning the pentagon in the direction of plus...
thingiverse
I installed a custom bed on my CR-10s by adding this easy 2mm offset block that effortlessly clicks onto a section of the left gantry, right above the Z limit switch. This setup enabled me to use a thicker bed without having to tighten all the spring...
thingiverse
This upgraded component is specifically tailored to enhance the capabilities of the Creality CR-10 3D FDM Printer. The bar collectors in question are engineered to accommodate tubes with a diameter of either 10 millimeters or 19-20 millimeters. ...If...
thingiverse
CR-10 Mini Z-Axis Brace Brackets, Designed for Maximum Versatility These brackets will probably fit other CR-10/Ender series printers with some threaded rod length adjustments. The upper bracket is long enough to clear the print head assembly and a...
thingiverse
I installed an e3dv6 clone with Volcano on my CR-10, and while things worked out okay, I had to adjust maybe 3 or 4 threads to get my bed just right. At some point (2-1) the bed started flapping around, so I didn't feel comfortable being at the edge....
thingiverse
originator joey99 : Summary Straight replacement to add an adjustable z-stop to the Creality CR-10. Things you will need: 1 x M3 x 25mm hex screw 1 x M3 nut 1 x 10-11mm rubber o-ring that will sit on top of the dial to make it stay in position It's...
thingiverse
This is primarily for the CR-10: to create some extra space between the bed platform and screw knobs, so print four of them for each corner. I had to use it after removing the foil/foam from mine while doing the following mod:...
thingiverse
What you will need: 3x GT2 6mm 20 teeth 8mm hole 1x GT 6mm closed loop belt 600mm 3x bearing 8mm x 22mm x 7mm 1x T8 2mm pitch 4mm lead 450-500mm with nut 1x T8 2mm pitch 4mm lead 400mm 2x M5 40mm 2x M5 washers
thingiverse
The lower bracket fixing is taller than the original remixed file to allow standard 750mm M10 threaded bars to be used, commonly available from sellers like this:...
thingiverse
... break for the Z axis. Just attach to the frame with T nuts and use a long M3 bolt or a zip tie to hold it all together. * Disable steppers * Flip up leveling blocks * Line up Z axis * Enable Steppers * Jog Z up * Flip down the leveling blocks
thingiverse
Designers unveil sleek new Z-axis knob concept. The innovative design prioritizes functionality and user experience. Aesthetically pleasing lines and clean edges create a visually appealing interface. ...Intuitive tactile feedback ensures effortless...
thingiverse
As I examine my Z-Axis Stepper, I notice that it's not precisely aligned with the threaded rod. This misalignment puts excessive stress and force on the Z-Axis Coupler. To correct this issue, I created a simple 1mm spacer that fits between the stock...
thingiverse
... sensor on this holder. Version 1: ir-z_probe_ender3_cr10_M3_thread.stl --> The holes are 2.5mm, the thread needs to be cut. Version 2: ir-z_probe_ender3_cr10_M3_brass_insert.stl --> The holes are 3.5mm, two M3 brass inserts must be melted inside.