cr 10 dual z sync 3d models

It's a fully printed enclosure for the CR-10 that really works well! I had tried ABS and nylon on the printer before with some pretty bad warping issues, but it was all about keeping the heat around the part instead of letting it float away and warm...

We connected the main power line from the CR-10 to relay 1's center post using 16 guage wire, then linked relay 1 to the main power on the motherboard with smaller wires. We used the following components: Raspberry Pi 3b:...

This is primarily a remix of Kiayoto's CR-10 enclosure. I removed the lower section of that enclosure and modded several pieces of the original. I had printed all of the original parts then made adjustments to suit my needs. I also modded the...

Hopefully this beacon will speed my CR-10s up when I throw some speed 3 modules in it. ... It might not be compltely flat so it wont hurt to lower it down into the build plate .1mm or so https://youtu.be/-ptA6_WomfQ

My CR-10S has been converted to be all-in-one, so the feet dimensions are probably different than a stock CR-10S. Additionally, there is no control box that needs space to the side. It screws in with #8 1/2" wood screws to assemble the back supports...

Hopefully this beacon will give my CR-10s a boost in speed when I install some speed 3 modules. It might not be perfectly level, but lowering it down into the build plate by just 0.1mm should make no difference at all. ...Check out this video for more...

I did a fair amount of searching and wasn't satisfied with the cost or design of several of the enclosures available for the CR-10 and other larger printers, so I decided to design my own. This enclosure is fully-customizable and can be scaled up or...

Includes a side pannel to mount duet 3D board and standard power supply, a generative design filament spool holder and extrusion rails to support Z axis

My CR-10S has been converted to be [all-in-one](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3513661), so the feet dimensions are probably different than a stock CR-10S. Additionally, there is no control box that needs space to the side. It screws in with...

... you need to print all additional parts - door and hinges.) Print with support and skirt. Pictures are from the first design with 2 mm walls. The second design comes with 3mm walls. https://pinshape.com/items/44114-3d-printed-cr-10-s-enclosure

The X-Min and X-Plus Endstops are typically connected to the mainboard's Y-Min and Y-Plus connectors, while the Z-Min and Z-Plus Endstops are usually connected to the mainboard's Z-Min and Z-Plus connectors. ... After completing all wiring connections,...

Ventilation cut-outs on the CR-10S proved subpar; I had to enlarge holes for improved airflow and install wire-mesh guards around each fan. A custom adapter plate was 3D printed for seamless integration with these new guards. Additionally, I drilled...

Although I had already replaced most of my printer's original extruder and hot end parts, I wanted this new setup to reuse as many of the original parts as possible from my Creality CR-10S when I bought it. The resulting system consists of two main...

A humble light fixture that required only a brief 10-minute creative spark to bring to life.

Initially, I found the concept intriguing but realized it wouldn't suit my Creality CR-10S due to its relatively low profile. ... To rectify this issue, I embarked on a complete redesign, incorporating several key modifications: -the ring has been...

I then came across tinymachines shipping their CR-10s equipped with spring caps, which got me thinking. So, I quickly whipped up some caps using Tinkercad. It's probably a good safety precaution to prevent springs from digging in and causing...

After upgrading my printer with a BMG clone extruder, I encountered an issue where the Z rod was colliding with the extruder.\r\nTo resolve this problem, I designed and created a custom bracket that rotates the extruder and stepper 90 degrees,...

I was really drawn to kelokera's cable holder for its sleek look and feel, but I didn't want to have to take my Z rod off to make it work with my setup. ...My extruder wasn't aligned with the filament guide on that holder either, so I decided to remove...

A precision-cut hole, measuring 10.5mm in diameter, securely cradles the pen in place with a clamping screw that keeps it firmly attached, all without requiring removal of the metal fan box. ...This thoughtful redesign also elevates the pen holder above...

... screw for one that's approximately 8mm in size. Cut a foam pad to 34x49mm and attach it securely to the piece. Keep in mind that the hole needs to be precisely 10 mm deep, so make sure to purchase foam that's thicker than this minimum requirement.

To complete this project, you'll require the following additional parts: - Flat LCD 10-Pin Ribbon Cable (50cm) https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BI009A6/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - 12 to 16 Gauge wire; I used 12 gauge, which was...

I wanted to inspect the hot end so it employs a 30mm silent fan with two pancake squirrel cage fans (CR-10 fans), while the board on the Ender features a socket for a parts cooling fan (marked laser) that can receive power and be fully controlled via...

Firmware: https://www.dropbox.com/s/04qdk2hp6wgbifb/Firmware%20-%20Cr_10_TMC%202100.rar?dl=0. ...Links:...

Reverse Mounting System for CR-10 (S) motors with stepper synchronization option and Z adjustable stabilizer available. Suggestions welcome. The printable threaded rod has a step size of M22x200, or 2mm per revolution for an outside diameter of...

The text provided appears to be instructions for modifying or upgrading a 3D printer, specifically a CR-10 model. The modifications seem to focus on wire management, hotend connection terminal, and adding a filament sensor. Here's a breakdown of the...

I extended the Klemco left fan by ~3mm so I could use the CR touch instead of a BL touch. I am using the CR touch mount from by JKCTX1. I like having dual fans! ...This has a E3D V6 with a Volcano end.

This is my simple dual Z stepper motor synch-tensioner, designed to synchronize both of your Z-Stepper motors via a timing belt when they're running sluggish. ...To get started, gather the following components: * A M5 Screw * A M5 self-locking nut * A...

Part designed to facilitate the conversion of a K8200 to dual Z leadscrews. Utilizes existing components, assuming the new leadscrew measures 8mm in diameter and its center point is situated 25mm away from the vertical frame. ...A poorly written...

this is a simple and easy synchronizing belt for ender 3's. ...Print the pulleys out of a hard material like petg. Print the belt out of tpu. Install pulley with belt on and tighten down lock collars. Enjoy your dual z rods staying aligned!

remixed to add dual extruder