claymore mine 3d models

Mine are red because they were part of the early test prints I did with Sunlu PETG - and as those parts don't need to be strong, I just used those instead of reprinting them in PC-CF.Now you have to get behind your pegboard and fit the bracket into...

I printed mine in FDM. The model is 1/6 scale, and the height is 450mm to the top of the blade on the helmet head. Some armor is printed separately to allow both resin or high-res FDM printing, saving supports! Two different head versions are...

Do not use lamps that generate heat. Check out another project of mine - Polar Sheep Fluffy Lamp https://www.prusaprinters.org/cs/prints/40124-polar-sheep-lamp And the project where I pushed the idea of ​​printing with bridges to the limit:...

I soldered mine so I don't have a link to an extension cable but it would be the same as the Ender 3 cables which shouldn't be too hard to find. You can still use the filament runout sensor if you run a PTFE tube between the extruder and the...

BOM ---- * PTFE tubing * 5x passthru bowden connectors, the ones that you can push the ptfe tube all the way thru * 2x nuts that fit the bowden connectors, fairly sure this is m6 * 4x 608 bearings (you've already got these if you bought a mmu2s) *...

I'm storing mine in the the Arkham Asylum box using the bottom try from the Stretch Goals box. This system uses three prefixes to identify where each part goes: _"Main-"_ "Shadow of the Bat" box _"Minis-"_ "Stretch Goals & Exclusives" box ...

Mine had a case around the SD side. I was able to easily pop it off.</p> <p>You also need a small strip of heavy duty double stick tape.</p> <p>If you mount the spool holder on the power supply case, print two of the Melzi highrise parts. If you use...

YOU MUST buy the 100w PTC 12v heater, make sure you have that version, DO NOT buy the 150w version or any 24v versions.https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32813489272.htmlThe screen is on amazon, search “DC 12V Digital Display Adjustable Micro Computer...

His 3D model for Photon S is probably better designed than mine, don't hesitate to check out his project!Link to the x3msnake model : link.And his Youtube video : linkPS : here is a video using his model : linkSince I don't have a metal case like on...

- to use other objects of Thingiverse than mine: print "Prusa i3 mount for MK8 extruder and an E3D hotend" by StevenQ-NE-UK (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1812853) + "Prusa I3 extruder carriage for MK 8 extruder" by ritaxiang...

Mine is designed to print in the upright orientation without any supports (hence the 45 degree rise to the connection ring). I've also included some step-up/down adapters for tools with different sized dust ports, and the FreeCAD file so you can...

I made mine out of PLA+ for simplicity, if it ends up melting I'll update this. - add one M3 threaded heat set insert in the hole at the base of the bracket's bridge - add one M3 t-nut on the top hole of the bracket's bridge. - Lock the bracket...

Take your time, measure twice before you cut, test before you drill, test before you screw. You may use a power screwdriver but be gentle; walls are solid but plastic may break if you apply too much strength. you need four 172mm-long tubes that will...

To assemble it, put a spring (I got mine from a pen) into the button cylinder and insert it into the shell. Hold that in place and push the latches in (you may need to cut or sand the edges off). You might also have to glue the latches in depending...

A gaming mouse specifically tailored to my design preferences assistant I crafted an individualized gaming mouse according to my unique specifications. assistant I have designed and acquired a personalized gaming mouse suited to my requirements. ...

Mine uses the same gear motor as his does, but I won't provide a direct link. Just search for "GA12-N20" when shopping, and get the lowest RPM you can. Keep the voltage in mind as well, and try to get the lowest RPM at the highest voltage. E.G. a...

... lead plug if needed. The two round "jut outs" on the side of the battery slot front are to allow the use of a rubber band to secure your battery if you're gonna use smaller than a 2200mah 3s or your battery just isn't as snug fitting as mine are.

Since refining that update was about 90% of this remix's purpose (and since tj's files are sleeker than mine) you should probably hit the 'back' button and start using his v2 models instead. You might still find the ejection port useful or perhaps...

For four-square you will need to cut: * 12 horizontals - I cut mine to 1.5 metre lengths, which works well for the game and means I can get two out of each standard 3-metre length of pipe * 9 verticals - I cut these to 2 metre lengths - high enough...

For easier printing the whole design was divided into three main components: * Nikon Z connector (lens side, connects to the body) * Filter drawer chamber * Telescope side connector, which needs an additional dovetail M48x0.75 ring (not sure if it...

Mine had an L shape end and I had to ensure each pigtail cable can make one complete loop while still being able to connect to the SDRs. They came as a set, I got the NooElec's and took the plastic casing off (https://amzn.to/2GSBlJ4). * The shield...

I did not bolt all 4 together on mine but you can certainly do that if you want it more secure. It's more serviceable if you dont screw all 4 together. Second - Print your panels. These are much quicker than the trays. ****UPDATE: If you have a...

\r\nDefinitely run a tolerance test before starting this build, some good ones:\r\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/jeffnope/collections/3d-printer-calibration\r\n\r\nThe extruder mod works great for feeding flexible material\r\nSome parts need to be...

&nbsp;The lens should fit tight in the case so it doesn't rattle around, mine has only 1-2 mm of clearance each way. &nbsp;Some clearance is required or the lens will get stuck.</p><p>To change the text is a little harder. &nbsp;There is a parametric...

I wired mine by hand on a protoboard, but it'll give you an idea if you're confused about how to connect things. I soldered female pin headers to accept the Arduino Nano on a small perf board. I soldered in three rows of pin headers across the back...

For a better grip on the shelf, I also printed mine with a filament-change 3 layers before the top, doing the top three layers in a flexible filament to be squeezed against the shelf. The Rod The rod again is very simple - just a rod. The default...

So I decided I wanted to print mine on its side, but that was not an attractive option as anyone who's tried to print a cylinder on its side can tell you. Even printing with supports, at least in my experience, that thing is going to come out looking...

I like mine better. *Yes, I'm lying to you. It actually only goes up to 9,999,999 ohms.</p> <h3>Instructions</h3> <h3>Parts:</h3> <ul> <li>2mm acrylic (~100x220mm)</li> <li>M2.5 by 8mm <a...

Included a file to test see how the pins will fit before printing everything and realizing your printer prints holes a different size than mine. You can use m5 x 25mm screws instead of pins, but the holes don't pass clean through so you won't be...

For better results, I print mine with four perimeter shells, making the twisted pin parts solid. Before inserting the finger pads into the bearing, I apply a small amount of SuperLube Synthetic Grease to each BB. American pennies have the same...