bit buddy 3d models

Making a print in PLA and leaving it in the sun does deform it a bit, but has not altered function. I also printed a version in PETG, but have not felt the need to swap it out. I had originally started on this design because drop-in LED headlight...

The original servo was a bit weak, so I replaced it with another NEMA17 servo, having more torque. Mount the servo to the ServoAdapter instead the servo. Use the holes that are slightly out of the 90 degree angle. Now mount the servo assembly on top...

It is also compatible with the BLtouch mount from Windischb’s design, all though it isn’t required and would be a bit of overkill.I am still not entirely satisfied with the design but am overall much happier with it. The first is that it still...

I glued the boat with Loctite super attak Power Flex gel, but first sanded it a little bit on the gluing surface. For better tightness and join I glued it inside with epoxy. After the boat was finished I spray painted it with acrylic colorless...

People ask me why the detail is so prominent (not just the bimbo bits) but the muscle tone, anatomy, clothing, etc., on my models... Well, as they're primarily made/designed for my own collection, I always sand down with fine emery and then have...

People ask me why the detail is so prominent (not just the Bimbo bits) but the muscle tone, anatomy, clothing, etc...on my models. Well, as they are primarily made/designed for my own collection, I always sand down with fine emery then have models...

Have you ever found yourself frustrated, because you have bunch filament rolls and don't know every bit of information about them off the top of your head? Well, here's the solution!</p><h3><strong>Introducing: Smart Filament Organizer...

I've glued mine onto the servo horn with a distance of 8.5 mm measured in between the top of the horn shoe and the bottom of the servo carriage.\r\nTo get the right distance of the horn shoe, you may have to shave off a bit of the servo...

The original servo was a bit weak, so I replaced it with another NEMA17 servo, having more torque. Mount the servo to the ServoAdapter instead the servo. Use the holes that are slightly out of the 90 degree angle. Now mount the servo assembly on top...

...If it goes in too hard, simply sand down the sides a bit. It should be just loose enough to pry out without a big effort. The lock will be fully retained by the drawer.\r\n\r\n* Two magnets are used to secure the wiring cover in the locked position.

To make soldering a bit easier for beginners, the box has plenty of room. The dynamo wires got to V-in and Gnd. Check which one is positive (with a voltmeter or a led) when you rotate the handle before actually connecting them. You will notice that...

After that, I gave it a bit of hot glue to stake the wires down.\r\n3. Assemble the servo to the load bar, and the hook to the servo. The servo that I used to design the load bar fit with no problem. Another servo I had that was a similar size did...

I have a little bit better mini tripod I will also try. There are 2 files you can print for test for fit to see if this will work for you. 1.Mount_Sling_TestSize.stl 2.ShockMountBaseTestTNutHole_V3.stl First test print will show you how the recorder...

I am adding the new center post here - you should print two of them instead of the left and right arm originally posted with this print, and still use the roller design from this print in either case. If you have already printed the smooth roller...

This tightened up the sound quite a bit... now the large bottom surfaces don't behave like drums.</li> </ul> <ul> <li>rubber feet on the bottom helped keep these in place on my desk pad and put pressure on the large open areas as well to help...

By increasing the barrel length, it instantly looks a bit more balanced. Especially with a stock added on. Next is accessories. The standard FDL-2 to has a single 3.5" rail, greatly limiting what accessories can be used with it. Sure the FDL-2V adds...

I don't have metric drill bits so i just picked something that was slightly larger and drilled very carefully! The mounting hardware for this is M3x12 bolts, again. To finish up the filament routing I modified a bunch of preexisting designs and...

As Always Enjoy The Parts On Offer People Ask Me Why The Detail Is So Prominent (Not Just The Bimbo Bits) But The Muscle Tone, Anatomy, Clothing Etc. On My Models...Well As They Are Primarily Made/Designed For My Own Collection I Always Sand Down...

The silk PLA is usually a bit more brittle and stringy, while the PLA+ will make better layer adhesion. This whole design was tested heavily and took a lot of hours to make it just perfect from both ergonomic and mechanical properties. Bonus - a...

Look for a 12V 0.1A to 0.16A fan, those seem to move quite a bit more air (you may even need to turn the speed down to 50% or so in some prints, quite a lot of air gets pushed out by this cooler.). Note, also shown are my "BLTouch Mount for Titan...

Looks a bit of a mess in the photo, but it does the job - the inside is not seen in any event. Additionally, the beard ring piece that should fit on the head/neck part is way too small; at 710% print size, this allows you to whittle away the inner...

https://archive.org/details/riddles-in-mathematics-a-book-of-paradoxes-eugene-p-northrop/page/58/mode/2up A bit of math obscurity, Curves of Constant Breadth are the counter example to the oft asked question “Why are manhole covers round?” The...

Cut the glue off if you have dangly-bits.insert the metal shelves from the backprint, cutout and insert your paper backgroundfit the background and screw in the backlid assembly:cut screws for the lid to length using the 2 screw jigs and your...

However a little bit is just fine) it will work out somehow. Ask away if anything is unclear about how I made this model. Should be pretty straight forward especially if you follow the images (the bland serious ones not the comic ones!!) BTW I...

This is easier with a screwdriver and a hex bit, but you can also use an allen key.Supplied with the smart filament sensor you will find a cable with a 4 pin plug on one side and a 3 pin plug on the other. Plug in the side with 4 pins into the smart...

People ask me why the detail is so prominent (not just the Bimbo bits) but the tears in the suit folds in cloth etc. on my models . . well as they are primarily made/designed for my own collection I always sand down with fine emery then have models...

... to attach caps. Caps are mounted using hooks. Just glue appropriate hooks into caps. Let glue to set before mounting cap on its place. To mount top center caps you may want too loosen front centers a little bit, otherwise you cant fit the top cap.

An Ogre fortress is not build to the same scale a a human one ;-) This design in S.A.R series to require a fair bit of assembly, and parts may, depending on print accuracy require some more finishing than the more simple wall sections. This Premium...

 Then measure with calipers since actual pipe you buy may differ a bit!  This is designed for ¾" pipe (Schedule 40 or 80) and 1.5" pipe (Schedule 40 only).  The platform grips the inner edge of the 1.5" pipe and the outer edge of the ¾" pipe. The...

I went back and fixed a few things: - The nub that lines up with the white dot on the camera body was off a little bit. I moved it so it should fall exactly in the right place. - I added a bevel to the side of the ring, to make it easier to tighten...