best slicer for artillery sidewinder x1 3d models
3137056 3d models found related to best slicer for artillery sidewinder x1.prusaprinters
merci pour la base aini qu'a toolfool ( que je n'arrive pas a ajouter dans le remix alors le voici https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4051910 ), j'ai repris l'entraxe de 200mm car n'aller pas sur ma v4 les angles et le logo selon mes besoins avec trou...
thingiverse
Finally, I designed this camera-holder for my Sidewinder X1. I found it terribly annoying that the cam is not fixed to the bed and moving with it. This part is designed to hold my LifeCam Studio, which has a very, very decent picture. I got Rev. 2...
cults3d
A friend bought a sidewinder and while setting up the printer for them, I wasn't happy with their spool holding mechanism and how it wasn't free moving. ...As such I've redesigned it such that a 1/2" PVC pipe can go through the spool.
thingiverse
Make your SW-X1 cooler! ...Push the overhangs and bridges to the limit without adding extra weight into the printer head. This is designed with 70mm and 80mm high static pressure in mind. Have fun and follow me for more !
prusaprinters
It works only, if your printer can print accurately small parts. The needed clearance is 0.1mm! Please use other strain relief designs if you don't have a well calibrated or do not want to / can not properly calibrate your printer! ...But maybe you...
prusaprinters
I needed a Beagle camera mount for my Sidewinder X2 and didn't have any space on the table to place it in front of the printer. I took the mounting plate from Beagle Camera Stand and the arm from the NoIR Camera Holder so I can mount it using the...
thingiverse
My buddy recently acquired a sidewinder and asked me to help him set up his new printer, but as soon as I saw their spool holding mechanism, I knew I had to make some changes - it just wasn't designed for smooth operation, so I took matters into my...
thingiverse
I too run my Sidewinder x1 without an extruder PCB cover. I recently had a problem where the connector that holds the flat flex cable burnt out (This was an intermittent issue and kept causing thermal runaway errors and failed prints :[ ). I found a...
thingiverse
Artillery-designed pieces are crafted to shield components along the X-Axis.
thingiverse
UPDATE: The G-Code command for switching is M42, not G42 as used in my previous documentation Also, please add these commands to the end-code of your slicer: M109 R50; set nozzle temp to 50°C and wait until it reaches this temperature M104 S0; set...
thingiverse
Bonjour Voici un mod pour le système original de support de rouleau de la sidewinder X1. Il améliore le changement de bobine lorsqu'elles n'ont pas la même taille. Le système en vidéo ici: https://youtu.be/Zyal3xfGVmk Pré-requis: Si vous avez...
prusaprinters
I started using Prusa Slicer a lot more in the past few weeks with great results so i thought i make it look better. For each of my printers i added a custom build plate. This improves looks and it also makes it easier to see what printer i am using....
thingiverse
I'm not satisfied with how the upper bearings are attached on the Sidewinder, so I created this straightforward holder that keeps the bearings secure and organized. ...The original screws provided are sufficiently long to fit perfectly without any...
thingiverse
The Artillery printer's wire length is just sufficient to reach the bed when it's fully extended, but inserting the zip tie and adding 5-6" to the wire length resolved the kinking issue at the base exit point. ...The custom mounting system on the base...
thingiverse
after looking for a fanduct for my Genius it's sad the way the Ender 3 have so many options and Artillery printers don't. (a mean, no extra screws or tools options) I check some designs and I decide to do my own. It's a dual chamber design. The...
thingiverse
After adapting your sidewinder to feed the filaments trough the side with this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4729418 You will want somewhere to put your fillament onto. This filament stand uses no extra hardware, just the screws, nuts, and...
cults3d
V1 is the typical design we all know and love with no changes this can be used for all X1's with only the plastic lever V2 is a variant with a camel hump design to extend shim down to shaft which on the metal lever becames source of wiggle. ...this can...
thingiverse
Here I have constructed an adapter plate that lets you convert your Sidewinder into an E3D Hotend. ... The plate and the spacer were designed by me, the fan clip is a 13mm longer remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3912303 and the canal_v1_1 is...
thingiverse
The original clips where made thicker and longer as the originals seems undersized on the X1 V4. The clips now fit the X1 V4 more securely. The ribbon is also held slightly better. As with the original design, this solution requires no screws ...
thingiverse
If you're interested in exploring various build plates tailored to different printers or want guidance on how to install them, feel free to check out the comprehensive collection available here:...
prusaprinters
... so I created a support to lock the enstop X. ...M3 screws more long than the original is needed Regards Jonweb Print Settings Printer: x1 Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 0,20 Infill: 20% Filament: what you prefer PLA orange Category: 3D Printing
thingiverse
In order not to affect the functionality of the Y-sensor, it is best to first push the bracket properly to the cable and then tighten the screw from the side, then the screw from the front and then the two screws to fix in the aluminum profile. ... ...
thingiverse
... cover it with tape instead. The cutout will need supports. I used tree-supports for both sidevents. I might optimize it some day to print without any support. PLA could work for your enclosure, i went with PETG for the higher temp resistance.
prusaprinters
...The amount of mounting holes I added is overkill- mostly for flexibility in mounting, so choose which works best for you. Uses (2) standard skateboard bearings on the rod, and may need longer M5 screws and/or more T-nuts depending on how you attach.
myminifactory
... prints without supports. - look at my "print orientation" stls for best orientation. Be aware that the clamp parts need to matched with their respective brackets. ...The top one is chamfered on one end to make sure it has plenty of clearance.
prusaprinters
The amount of mounting holes I added is overkill- mostly for flexibility in mounting, so choose which works best for you. ...Uses (2) standard skateboard bearings on the rod, and may need longer M5 screws and/or more T-nuts depending on how you attach....
thingiverse
I'm happy to help! ...However, I don't see any input text from you. Please provide the text you would like me to spin, and I'll do my best to create a rewritten version that meets your requirements.
thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/uspaeker https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4075508 Scheinbar spart Artillery inzwischen bei der Länge des Riemens, der war in der bisherigen Datei leider zu kurz und lies sich nicht mehr ordentlich befestigen. Daher der...
thingiverse
... the Coanda Effect, drawing in additional air much like a Dyson Bladeless Fan. Preliminary tests have been promising. I am now fine-tuning the lateral orientation of the airflow stream. Feel free to test it and offer your feedback. Best regards.
thingiverse
... ...So i designed this little clip for be able to remove it for nozzle maintenance or else. Use support for parts in the air. This clip is made for the fan shroud of Skinah : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3911689 Thanks to him for his creation.