axis mod 3d models

This is just the start...\r\n\r\nIt functions perfectly.\r\n\r\nGT2 28T Pulley x2\r\n\r\n852mm GT2 endless belt\r\n\r\nPrint 2 tops, 1 base \r\n\r\n605 bearings used for the idler base, secured with 3mm screws.\r\n\r\n604 bearings used for the belt...

Made from the Amkza original model, which unfortunately failed during setup.\nSo my objective was to reinforce two walls holding a ball-bearing pin significantly (I reworked them into hollow cubes).\nPrint Settings\nRafts:\n ...

I redesigned this because the original design didn't leave much space for the wires on my particular printer and another remix that used a channel for the wires ended up being too loose to support the sensor when the wires moved inside the...

I'm excited to share my x-axis mod for the Geeetech i3 Pro B, a project inspired by the sleek fanduct designs of Petsfang and Hero me on my Tevo Tornado. ...To replicate this look on my i3 Pro B, I needed M3 X D4.6 X L3.0 hot inserts, which can be...

This 3D printed part will swap out the existing back left nutwheel with a smaller version, enabling you to install the y-axis dampener mod and heatsink. The original nut would interfere with the heatsink or motor if you added a dampener to the y...

I redesigned the original as I wanted to use the Zed axis USB mod and the original wouldn’t fit with it (stupidly I only realised this after I printed it and realised it needed a cut out for the USB mod. I used Onshape by just measuring the...

<p>Update as of February 2021!</p> <p>Added Versions for MGN12H/C and MGN15H/C</p> <p>Changed OpenSCAD source to make hole pattern configurable.</p> <p>Update as of November 2020!</p> <p>I have added two idler-brackets that integrate better with the...

If you need an endstop for this version, check out the one here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2614740. It's a great fit for a table from cheap3d with a profile length of 327mm. ...For support in English, join our Telegram channel at...

Stronger version of the Belt Adapter V3; The original design got bent or broke after some time. For mounting, there is a 6,5mm through hole. ...I inserted a M5 threaded insert.

I added a second z screw and motor to my Longer LK5 Pro hoping to get better stability on tall prints. As a side effect the X gantry needs constant tramming. This would not be a big deal if we had individual motor controllers. In this case, we don't....

Though my initial design for the R4 series Prusa MK3s extruder carriage has performed well, I had to make adjustments when using it with Igus RJ4JP bushings, as they resulted in excessive play on the extruder. This modification enhances my original...

Support in Telegram -- https://t.me/redbot_en English -- https://goo.gl/AgX19c Russian <b>Update 26.10.17</b> We just added new models for the main and cover parts of cross bolts M5 with a head of 10mm. <b>Update 16.10.17</b> We are now working on...

My modification of the Taurus X-Axis motor part has been optimized for seamless operation with both stock and BMG extruders. ...Still, you may need to carefully trim or sand approximately 0.5 millimeters from the lower left trapezial nut to ensure a...

I modified the Wanhao i3 hotend assembly to include two aluminum blocks with long LM8LUU bearings in each. However, due to the NY-2016 crisis, I'm facing a significant delay in sourcing steel fixing outer rings for the LM8LUU bearings. To circumvent...

I merely remixed the second Z-axis mod based on his original design. Instructions: To proceed with this customization, you will need to relocate the Y-axis motor and belt to the base as depicted earlier (another person also came up with this...

This mod allows to add MGN12H linear rails to the Z-axis of an Ender 3 Pro, I do not have a standard Ender 3 but I am assuming it would work as well. I have tried it with the dual z motor and leadscrew plate mod and it works as well. The reason I...

... and increased the height by 2 mm. At the end, the whole Z-axis is lifted by 2 mm, too.You have to replace the y-rod-holder, z-axis-bottom and z-axis-top parts. ...Dont forget to mirror parts! Print with Prusas recommended settings for printer parts.

... in the thumb wheel with glue or heat.5. Install the item on your printer and adjust the gap between the brace belt tensioner and x end idler (M6 bolts rest on the X axis rods).Design inspired by https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:160636/ by ffleurey

This is a redesign of the Prusa i3 rework z-axis bottom right section, adapted to serve as a housing for a power switch. ... Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: Prusa i3 Rafts: ...

The inner 4 M3 holes are for a standard MGN12H carriage and the other 4 M3 holes spaced slightly wider apart are for the MGW12H carriage. There is a very rough video below of it in action along with my X Axis Rail mod. Materials: 1 x 300mm long...

Revision of Prusa Bear Mod upgrade Z axis. Motor mount is beefier and consist of two parts for easier assembly. ... Upper mount is cut out if you want to use anti-backlash nut for trapezoidal screw.

ATTENTION: THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS! Upgrade or Mod the E3 Y axis to 8mm round rod with LM8UU linear bearings or Drylin bushings. Assembly and BOM (WIP)Check at following link to always have the latest version available (google docs...

The X-axis belt clamps necessitate 85mm-long M4 studs, which screw into captured knuts adjacent to z-screw knuts without over-tightening. Two M4 knuts should be locked when winding. Belts pass through the blocks freely in this assembly, which...

SummaryGot tired of the sagging X axis and the pulley mod is limited in help. Remixed Stephanburger parts and modified them so they mirror correctly and the idle pulle screw faces the back now. Big difference in quality! 0.05 mm layers using a 0.25...

Another advantage is that this mod allows your machine to maintain its original speed. ... You can see the first test here: http://youtu.be/vVHvbCfxZdU The only change I made was to replace the Y-belt brackets with ones that have captured nuts and...

Note that to take full advantage of this mod, it's essential to relocate the existing Y axis motor to the center of the base and also move the belt along with it. This will not only improve print quality but also eliminate the "sideways jerk" issue...

Mount the "20 mm Railholder" in the top left, else the XY calibration will fail. Place the 3x "Carriagespacers" on top of the 3x linear rail carriages - else the bed mount will hit the y axis motor. IMPORTANT: Check the pictures to see which carriage...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2601219 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:619347 All you need for the mod m3 screws m3 nuts threat rod 120mm and manifolf female to female M10 smooth rod 550mm glass 200x300 plate 200x300 heatbed mk2a 300x200 mosfet...

I'm a huge fan of belt driven Z-Axis, so much that I made one for my own printer (I usually use a modded tevo tarantula). I love it so much that I decided to make one for this wonderful machine! Sadly, I don't own one, so I haven't printed it yet,...