axis mod 3d models
103416 3d models found related to axis mod.cults3d
This mod make 3Dtje can use T5 lead screw as a rod for z-axis. ... BOM: (about) 150mm T5 lead screw : 2 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32691434154.html) T5 nut trapezoidal screw nut : 2 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32605093754.html)
thingiverse
I placed the drag chain on the X axis away from the frame so it should almost remain its full build volume without the need of replacing the filament mount. The drag chain in the pictures are bending backwards because I made some iterations of the...
thingiverse
Modified from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4627011 Parts Required 2x MGN12H sliding block 2x MGN12 rail 300mm 4x M3 T-nut for aluminum profile 2020 8x M3 6mm screw 4X M5 30MM screw(use the stock)
thingiverse
When you install the BMG extruder, make sure to align it with your x end-stop. This part is secured in place by friction alone. ... Hardware Requirements: (1) M3x10: You can find a suitable metric screw set on Amazon at...
thingiverse
The human form is being redesigned to feature an inter-rod spacing of precisely 45 millimeters, a deliberate departure from the original specification of 46 millimeters. ...This adjustment ensures optimal performance and balance in the human anatomy.
cults3d
— — — — — — — — — I was looking for the BMG-Mod by "Drodfro" for my MK2.5 Bear Upgrade and only found one X-Carriage which was remixed by "OGAwesomer" and sadly was not tested. I've compared it to the MK2.5 Carriage of the Bear X-Axis v0.6 and...
thingiverse
I was searching for the BMG-Mod by "Drodfro" for my MK2.5 Bear Upgrade and could only find one X-Carriage that had been remixed by "OGAwesomer." Unfortunately, it hadn't been tested. I've compared it to the MK2.5 Carriage of the Bear X-Axis v0.6...
thingiverse
The modifications include: * Upgrading to a Duet 3 board * Improving electronics with a modular panel and honeycomb layout * Adding a triple Z-axis system with kinematically-coupled aluminum bed * Replacing the MeanWell power supply with a fanless...
prusaprinters
I also added 5V, 12V, and 24V spring-clamp terminals for powering various bits and pieces. I am also swapping the (loud) MeanWell PS for a fanless MeanWell, as switching to an AC SSR bed heater decreases the DC amperage required. 5V is provided by a...
thingiverse
This started with a linear rail X axis mod I did for the Aquila. I have since added Direct drive versions and for stock wheels. Found here https://www.printables.com/model/332268-voxelab-aquila-x-axis-mgn12-linear-rail-conversion. This version is...
thingiverse
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfpxVBl5oqM Z Axis Linear Rail Lift Mod using the Outside V-Slots for Ender 3 and Aquila ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I saw a mod that used...
prusaprinters
Resized screw for "Ender 3 Pro Mod - Y Axis Tensioner" by Cornely_Coolhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3289057 I printed his belt tensioner with PETG but screw and nut parts were too tight fit and couldn't even turn 1 round so I resized his model. Z...
thingiverse
For assembly the mod you will need the following parts: Magnets: 5x2mm - 12 pieces 3 mm ball - 6 pieces 10x3mm - 4 pieces Screws: m3x10 - 2 pieces m3x5 - 2 pieces m3x15 - 4 pieces Inserts: m3 - 4 pieces
thingiverse
Human: *Note:This is for older Ender-3 printers with flat/z-shaped front Y idler bracket.* [Here's the mod](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3058382) for newer style with U-shaped front Y idler bracket.* [The original...
prusaprinters
Here's the mod for the older style with the flat/z-shaped front Y idler bracket.The original design placed the belt too close to the frame which caused severe belt misalignment. This could be due to my unit being an early model, poor QC or a number...
prusaprinters
Here's the mod for the newer style with the U-shaped front Y idler bracket.The original design placed the belt too close to the frame which caused severe belt misalignment. This could be due to my unit being an early model, poor QC or a number of...
thingiverse
My intention for this was to sit in the Z-Axes threaded rod hole at the top of the Printrbot Simple Tower Mod to keep my rod from wobbling. I will update with pictures when I can and it has been tested. The idea being the hole is only big enough...
thingiverse
The modifications include drilling new holes in the Y plate, mounting new rail retainers, relocating the Y-motor mount, front idler assembly, and Y-axis limit switch, and re-tensioning the Y belt. **Analysis:** The document is well-structured and...
thingiverse
they're kinda important...) As time went on, after tazguy79 inspired me to finish up the Z-Axis, I expanded it to chain all the axis, which I think completes this thing, and built on the same theme with cable management ducts (moved to a new Thing:...
prusaprinters
This might also be for you... (Regarding MK2 Support Read below) Originally inspired by: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1725591 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2224025 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2240114 I wanted to add Cable chains to my...
thingiverse
Eight-millimeter Heli-Coil Threaded Rod Model One and Z-Axis Bearing
thingiverse
Taurus x-axis idler modification to accommodate these 40 teeth full metal idler pulleys with a 3mm bore from AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33010194019.html. I've adapted this from the stock extruder version of the Taurus original and...
thingiverse
Unfortunately, the horizontal axis of my eyes does not align perfectly with each other. And in the glasses themselves, this cannot be adjusted. So I see two images when I look at them, not one. During the planning phase, I based it on the Lichy...
prusaprinters
This is my simple modification of Pablo's amazing X axis cable chain that just slides on and lets you keep the original filament sensor.
thingiverse
This is a straightforward tweak to Pablo's incredible X-axis cable chain design, allowing the original filament sensor to remain intact while sliding smoothly into place.
thingiverse
I successfully installed a modified MGN12 rail on the Y-axis of my printer and achieved significantly improved results without needing to purchase any additional drilling equipment.
thingiverse
To assemble the knob and pulley, you will need two M5 x 0.8 nuts and one M5 x 25 bolt for each assembly. A soldering iron is recommended to press-fit the hardware in place. First, apply a small amount of superglue to the face of the plastic part...
thingiverse
you should make the support pad concentric and 100% rotate the model 45 degrees to fit the bed.
thingiverse
Upper_part_4S Верхняя часть под расстояние между посадочными отверстиями в 18.2мм (Ghost 4S) Upper_part_4S_Nut Верхняя часть под расстояние между посадочными отверстиями в 18.2мм (Ghost 4S) и вплавляемыми гайками M3 4x3мм Bottom_part_4S ...
thingiverse
For cases where you don't have clearance for t-nuts, this version simply presses into the end of a 2020 extrusion.