artillery sidewinder x1 3d printer v4

That way, they can travel over the case rather than behind it, allowing the printer to be pushed back closer to a wall.I had a few additional design goals:not require removing bed to add or remove the strain relief bracketnot interfere with Z endstop...

A Form to Create Four Silicone Dampers for the Stock Sidewinder Heatbed. The size of the dampers is 20mm in height and 23mm in diameter. M5 screws are required as "placeholders" and to connect the two parts together. However, Something was...

360° IP camera support Takes over the screws on the left side of the X1 without any change necessary. Diameter 90 Enjoy! If you wish to make changes, another theme, an idea of creation, I invite you to contact me at linuxien2694@gmail.com. ... You...

Unfortunately, my X1 from 03/2020 is no longer compatible with this build. I've completely rebuilt it using Fusion360, but its foundation remains a testament to Mww's exceptional work. I highly recommend adding an extra cable tie to the outgoing...

I modified CastroSATT's Artillery Extruder Brace to add a simple and easily removable filament cleaner that gets the job done with ease. I carefully wrap a piece of optical grade microfiber cloth around the filament and let it sit snugly in the...

I'm really impressed by the design of the Sidewinder's stock spool holder, BUT one thing that didn't sit well with me was the need to adjust it for different spool widths. So, in a true maker spirit, I came up with a fix using the stock side plates...

To see more images of the potential outcome, check out my other remix for Pi4: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4332284 This is a remake from J741: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3437219 You can decide to place the case behind the Sidewinder...

I´m sharing this filament sensor mount I´ve made for my Artillery Genius. This design allows you to move the spool away of the machine and keep the sensor on the main frame, making it easier to guide the filament especially on higher layers,...

... activated up to a height of 10 mm. More for the printer can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/hans-g/collections/3d-printer Thanks go to: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3989722 Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

I recommend printing 2 pieces, one for each side of the 3D printer. Es un mod para evitar que el puente del extrusor suba tanto que pille el cable del sensor del filamento y que haga cortocircuito en la TFT (fallo que es común en esta...

My Z-Belt (the top belt) on the Sidewinder had become very loose, causing layer shift problems. I built the tensioner and now those issues are completely gone! Adjusting Tension: To adjust the tension, move the tensioner further left or right for...

You may need shorter M3 screws to affix the base to the hotend. Print instructionsCategory: 3D Printer Parts Summary In case you need to adjust the stock 4020 cooling fan up or down a few mm, this mount has you covered. Top snaps in to securely...

... to be 6.5mm in diameter instead of the standard 6.0-6.2mm size found in the stock holder. This modification is also recommended by Artillery, as can be seen in various videos available on YouTube or Facebook Groups that demonstrate this process.

... Enjoy using this design to take your 3D printing experience to the next level. (edit) Now available in an expanded LARGE size, ideal for observing multiple printers side by side and taking your printing capabilities further than ever before.

I don't have enough space to mount the spool on top of the printer. ...Moreover it adds a lot of weight to the frame. With this simple design it's possible to put the filament beside the printer. ... Just needs a screw and nut M4.

... adding it to the frame would increase the overall weight significantly. Fortunately, with this minimalist design, the filament can be conveniently placed beside the printer. ...All that's required for assembly is a single M4 screw and nut.

Considering that the AJCROSS bracket might be designed for an older printer model is making me think twice. Requires two small cable ties to get started. Updated as of March 22, 2020 Uploaded a Fusion360 file to facilitate modifications by others....

You will need four of each part, and four additional squash balls (39 mm diameter).Balls locations are a little closed (shape is a little more than a half sphere) to keep the balls in place if you need to move your printer. Good results are...

Position the blue carriage precisely behind the printer bed's back-right corner. ...Secure it firmly by tightening the right-hand screw located near the bed's rear edge, then carefully insert thermal insulation material to fill the gap between the bed...

Reconstructed Version for Printers. NEVER use PLA for this!!!!!!!! ASA/ABS or better is recommended! I have uploaded more then i wanted. You will need M3 screws. I have used a Drillbit for making M3 screwings. I also have uploaded a...

... If you found this useful, please donate what you think it is worth to my PayPal - www.paypal.me/MattABW. Help cover the time of design. Thanks, Enjoy! (edit) ...now comes in LARGE size to extend further forward and see 2 printers side by side!

I designed these two objects to be able to mount a cable guide chain for the printer bed. My cable is 57mm away from the edge of the bed.I bought the chain on Amazon. The chain measures 10x10 mm. I used 12 links and a head. it is not necessary to...

I was fed up with the latest loud printer output and decided to swap out the old 40mm fan for a new 60mm one. I secured it to the housing from the inside using M3 bolts, then fastened the 60mm fan firmly in place with M4 bolts. To make it work...

... than the coaster type. This is a very simple but effective upgrade for your printer. It requires a T8 bolt, nut and 2 608 bearings. ... The nut and bolt can be any length to accommodate the size spools you use as long as it fit the 608 bearing.

I'm also going to recommend checking out Tree Supports - they're a fantastic resource if you're looking to get the most out of your printer. As for my pictures being all skewed after posting and the STL not displaying properly... honestly, I'm...

My printer's cable placement is 60mm (center) from the side of the bed. Measure yours and ask me for a new model if needed. Printed with no supports. There is a 0.2mm sacrificial plane to help bridge the upper part of the attachment. Than you just...

EDIT: some printers might still not make the hole sized appropriately for an M3 screw. An M4 screw *definitely* works-- I have included a modified version of the Waggster mount, adjusted so that it accepts an M4 screw. ...This should make everything...

When stepper motors overheat, they can start losing steps, which is a serious problem in 3D printing. ...To tackle this challenge, I deployed a high-performance 24-volt fan measuring 40x40mm and repurposed the energy from the existing component cooling...

Use 2 M5x40mm screws and nuts to fasten the Screw-Cover, this part is for holding the adjustment screw in place: you can attach the brace with 2 m3 screws on the bottom of the printer but i found that it is not needed and will only make it harder to...

... easy with the embedded nuts on the back of the part! Required components: 2*screw: M2*8 2*nut: M2 Set of screws and bolts (really useful in 3d printing): https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B081SHVYRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1