anycubic predator mods 3d models

- The position of the H2 was changed from the original (thanks @morganlowe for going into the source files and modding that for me...) to allow space for a second fan between it and the backplate, which brings me onto the next part: dual fans. -...

If Your Blowing The Right Direction Then All Should Be Fine With Cooling Air Streams Directed Toward Printed Object During Process Steps, While Ensuring Good Spinning Capability As We Designed In This Mod With Added Small Spacer Bars Keeping The...

Print Settings Printer: Strongly modded Wanhao i3 Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: Doesn't Matter Resolution: 0.3 Infill: 50 Filament: any any (High Temp like PETG or ABS advised!) Notes: optimized for 0.8 Nozzle (just make sure that Walls are sliced...

Cynthia is a bolt action Nerf blaster that uses half dart Talon magazines! Firing Demo: Blaster Overview: https://youtu.be/mIW0dAyOCv0Customization Overview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZe6dWdQUs0Assembly...

However, other length belts will likely work as well. These pulleys for the Z rods (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077GMKW1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1), and these idler pulleys for the tensioner...

The X carriage was also amended and printed in one fixing with cable ties, allowing quick changes for future mods like a laser or Dremel. I replaced the original X carriage on 21/11 due to an error - I had uploaded a file that was 2.75mm too long as...

Level the bed: It is important to note that with this mod there is no play in the bed if the nozzle dives into it. PLEASE USE CARE WHEN HOMING THE NOZZLE AS TO NOT RUIN BOTH YOUR NOZZLE AND HEAT BED. With the bed lowered as low as it can go, home...

If you have one of the Prusa MK3 printer series printers, I highly recommend you check out Grégoire's excellent enhancements to this printer:Bear Frame Upgrade 2.1Bear Extruder and X Axis (BearExxa) - This is v1; hopefully by the time you are seeing...

Once my printer arrived, I completed the mod for the Raspberry Pi/Control Panel mount and started working on the Gantry Support. I realized right away that the original part would not work in it's current state, the bed would hit it when it moved all...

-------------- **Risers** ------------- You'll need your printer at least 30mm off the ground for proper clearance with these mods. For that purpose, I've created a couple of different riser/feet options: This one uses the stock rubber pads: ...

Hardware required: If stock bed for the CR10S-Pro (you'll still have the M3 nut): A Tapered / Flat Head M3 x 20 If Wham Bam with the "I drilled a hole in the magnetic mat" mod (you'll still have the M3 nut): A Tapered / Flat Head M3 x 16 For the...

Requires My Part Fan Shroud Mod: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1792867 to Move the Fans Up and In to Clear the Sides of the Enclosure. To Complete This, You Will Need: * 20 x 1/4-20x3/4" Bolts * 20 x 1/4-20 Nyloc Nuts * 12 #8x3/8" Sheet Metal...

It was easier and more affordable to order another kit from them to make this mod instead of reusing the existing one on my X-Carve. The kit comes with most of the hardware that you'll need, except for two M4 screws on the x-axis gantry which support...

If you want to run LEDs and an Octopi off the same psu you need to upgrade. One of my many mods to the printer was to get a Mean Well LRS-350 24v psu which is the successor to the NES-350 24v, the only real difference being reduced cost (about $20...

fan adapter and modded Prusa MK3 Layer Cooling", https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3512817 . That assembly is shown in some of the photos above, though the files here are only of the carriage and BLTouch mount parts. For the cooling system, also...

This adapter is as simple as I can make it.Benefits compared to other optionsSimple to installNo firmware changes requiredNo structural compromises (it's attaches to the original metal assembly)The only downside is that it requires 3 x M3*8mm...

... others would appreciate it. *****IMPORTANT***** If you decide to use this, you will likely also have to raise your bed to avoid losing around 3cm of build space on the y-axis. Raise the bed using this mod: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3890803

All printers tolerances are slightly different in my experienceImprovements/Tweaks I've MadeWider spine, so film is held betterResized the overall reel width so the film holds properlyOpened up the outer-most sprockets/lengths of the reel (they were...

And a good amount of patience :-) Be aware you might lose your Virpil warranty aplying this mod! The STL files resemble the left side of the engine lever, for the right one, they have to be mirrored in your favorite slicer, except for the...

You'll also need to make more mods to the rear of the blaster, and lose the screw post back there. Also due to the lower build quality, you may have to jiggle with the cage to get it to fit. I have found that they are all a little different. It only...

It makes these sorts of mods a lot easier since you already have all the screw lengths you could ever want on hand. - x4 1.8mm thick m3 square nuts (also recommend getting extras on Amazon or eBay) - Zip ties for cable management -...

Swiveling Headphone Mount for Quest-3 or Quest-2, BoboVR M2 or M3 Halo Style Head-Strap (Or pretty much any "Helmet Style" Headset)This mod to "atst133's" excellent design allows headphones to swivel Left/Right/Up/Down while holding the headphones...

Mods Upgrades Customized Parts Scalable If you noticed the motor and idler mounts to be placed in the corners of the frame. This eleminates any design constraints of overall length and width. So if you need a printer to be a specific size or you...

With this mod you can adjust it on the fly and get it just right without having to stop everything again and again. Additionally there were 2 major safety issues related to the bed which I address in this modification: Raising the bed off the lock...

My printer has this Z-Axis Mod installed. I used the "Z Brace" piece from dirtsky's Ikea Enclosure to further reinforce the Z axis. Supplies Printed parts (4x) "Leg Top.stl" (4x) "Leg Base.stl" (16x) "Magnet Cover.stl" (optional) "Filament...

Things got especially tricky when I wanted to replace the PSU and the board, as I would have to mod the living hell out of the small control box. Since space next to the printer is not a problem for me, I decided to design a new, much larger control...

It features: - absolute supportfree printing - mod-ability to some extend due to granular parts (some template-parts already included, more to come) and freecad-sketches - no glueing anywhere - only 3 different screwsizes + nuts needed (M2x8, M3x8,...

Cover plate is the same as in the original version. VIDEOS A simple quick and dirty demonstration by me of how the knob works: And a more professional video by Chuck Hellebuyck on how to install the knob (and some other useful CR-10 (mini) mods)...

Since my print bed can't do it's full 200x200 anymore due to mods (this still wouldn't have fit anyway - it's a tad larger than 200x200), I cut it into four manageable, bite-sized pieces. Print it in pieces and glue it together (I like [this cement...

- The position of the H2 was changed from the original (thanks @morganlowe for going into the source files and modding that for me...) to allow space for a second fan between it and the backplate, which brings me onto the next part: dual fans. -...