anycubic kobra neo leveling 3d models

A quick & dirty way of sitting a camera with a lrgerbase on the side of the Kobra Neo. Measurements are taken to allow the front part to slip nicely over the frame on the right hand side & the plate is set far enough back to stop the printhead...

Kobra Neo/Go Light Bar that snaps into the underside of the top frame rail. I used 12V LED strips so I wired a 12V zener diode in series with the positive wire. You can also use a 12V regulator or alternatively use 24V LED strips to avoid the...

This clamps on to the spool holder on the Kobra 2 Neo, and I assume other Kobra models with a 25mm circle in the holder. ... the ideal hardware is a 25mm m4 bolts, but any 1/8 inch bolt will work with a washer.

Bar to hold led strip to top of kobra 2 Neo 3d printer.

this is for an Anycubic Kobra Neo that is doing a dual z axis upgrade using a belt, not dual motors.The benefit of belts is that you never have to deal with synchronizing motors / heights of the X gantry or adjusting the vref on your board, leading...

Anycobic Kobra (Neo) Z-Axis stabilizer STLs split in 3 parts (1-3) and in 2 parts (3-4) You´ll need a 688 2RS TN 8x16x5 mm bearing and 2 M3-M4 bolts with a minimum length of 45mm. If you print optimal, you don't need nuts necessarily (hole is .2mm...

Tired of having the original USB bothering you and losing it, create this grip to always have it at hand on the printer.

I changed some things from the original desing:I have thinned the upper hook, so that everything is more equal and I have made a cut to be able to hook it betterI have made it possible to put a large part of the USB, since before you had to remove...

Hello,to compensate the forces from fast printing, i created a new “pair” of feet from scratch.Also the new feet fit so well, that when you move your printer, the feet stay connected.You also can use them for other printers, if the feet have an...

For the assembly you will need:2x M5 40mm screws (not M6)688zz bearingThis design is intended to reduce z-wobble on my new 3d printer. ...It's my first design i upload to thingiverse.For the version 2.1 i have fixed the polygonal mesh of the assembled...

Add exhaust ducts to my enclosure. Beyond the window is a storage room, so the exhaust is vented there. The hose used was an aluminum duct with an inside diameter of 75 mm. The fan is a USB fan with a screw pitch of 105 mm. ４- M5×20 were used.

Edit (8 Sept): I added a "wide mouth version" that slows flow down and makes it a bit more turbulent. ...I prefer this one, but left the faster flow (regular version) for those who like it better Remixed my own fan to improve these items: - avoid...

I designed this mounting plate after i decided to use old mobile phone for Octoprint. To complete I printed GoPro Arms 2x55mm 1x55mm Twist 1x100mm thx to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3312779 for the Arms. ... Parts M5x20mm Bolt ( Round Head -...

If you put you printer into an enclosure, you may want to put the power supply outside it for a better cooling. With this power supply holder, you can mount it outside the enclosure. You have to extend the cables between the power switch and the...

update 2023_11_20: bearing size is Outer diameter 16mm, bore 8mm, thickness/width: 5mm update 2023_08_22: removed from "work in progress"! update 2023_10_09: added spacers to be used only with dual-z-axis applications. This spacer should slide...

I designed this bracket to move the lcd more forward and down on the printer so it was out of the way for a webcam. ... Recommend using either PLA+ for durability or PETG to ensure no warping over time.

This piece fits in the tracks under where the nozzle defaults to. This will catch bits that fall off the nozzle and keep them from going under the printer. ... Supports - Yes (I used Tree supports with the bottom on the bed) Infill - 10-20% Layer...

This is a remix of a project by zamonary1. The original version was too short to properly stabilize the z-axis and the 688zz bearing had too much clearance. ...Now after minor changes everything fits perfectly.Required materials:688zz bearing2x M5x35mm...

A complete redesign of my first dampening feet with an adjustable feet hight. Missing is just a clip to fix the feet to the printer base. ... If you like this feet, please leave me a like.

Parts for printer hard covers. I used a 100-yen shop's tension rods. These rods are conveniently adjustable in length. The external dimensions of the box are 593×538×778mm. There are three different rod lengths. 　　　479㎜　525㎜　728㎜ The boards...

For faster filament spool replacement, I developed this extension to install two spools on the printer at the same time.

I designed this LED bracket to hold the USB LED light bar below, which works really well. USB LED light bar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004541189073.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.34.1f3718028ML19X If you find this useful...

This design is a Z axis leveling support compatible with the Anycubic Kobra measurements to facilitate the adjustment of the eccentric nuts and avoid printing problems. ... Este diseño es un soporte de nivelación del eje Z compatible con las medidas de...

... I used Octoprint to verify my leveling. Print Settings Printer: Anycubic Kobra Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: Doesn't Matter Resolution: 0,2mm Infill: Thunder/Lightning Filament: Anycubic PLA Black Category: 3D Printer Accessories

this keeps my left hand free to hold paper and not need to type over and over.Same with Z-offset while printing M421 C ; adds a mesh point at current location M851 Z-x.xx ; sets Z-offset for now and later prints M500 ; saves settings to memory Print...

Filament guide for the Anycubic Kobra

Display cover for Anycubic Kobra printer.

A simple tools organizing holder for my Anycubic Kobra Neo, am sure it would work with Kobra or Korba go as well. No support needed, no screws or glue required, it slots inside the printer rails nicely, can be placed on either side, front or back...

A Support to thighten the screws of the Z-Axis and support the weight of the Extruder, accordinbg to the Leveling of the Bed. I had the problem, that the weight of the Extruder pushed the right side of the Z-Axis-Bar down when i tried to tighten the...