anycubic hot end 3d models
224562 3d models found related to anycubic hot end.prusaprinters
Why would you want to have a plastic model of a hot end? I wanted to have a model of a 3D-printer hot end for educational purposes in our Makerspace. I found the CR-10 Hot End Model by intoxikated, printed it and looked at it. Print Settings Printer...
youmagine
For the electrical connection, I've decided to tie it in with the fan on the Hot-End, so when you start printing, the LEDs will come on and stay lit until the job is finished. ...The only problem with this approach is that the light flickers at a very...
thingiverse
I'm working on a fresh new hot end design and am determined to build it as soon as possible, likely using a combination of steel and brass. There's no way for me to conduct virtual heat tests since I don't have any specialized software available,...
thingiverse
This is "The Hot End" test logo, a stunning visual representation that prints with precision and beauty, whether it's small or large in scale - it requires no supports at all. Check out this video to see the logo in action:...
thingiverse
The Prometheus V2 is an all-metal hot end engineered to be fully customizable and compatible with any 3D printer on the market. Crafted from a single solid piece of stainless steel, the one-piece nozzle ensures seamless assembly and eliminates all...
thingiverse
This is to sit under your hot end and catch drippings. Stops filament from dripping into your rails. Lift out of rail to clean. Printing friendly with a slope at the top so you don't need supports. ...The rail extensions are make to be printing...
thingiverse
This hot end prototype is designed for MakerBot, RepRap, and RepStrap printers. The nozzle size is 0.5mm. Materials used include brass for the head (with holes for resistor and thermistor yet to be drilled), PEEK as a thermal barrier, aluminum for...
thingiverse
This tool is specifically engineered to upgrade the hot end of your Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro. I built it from scratch with durability in mind and made sure it allows your blade to move smoothly through the Bowden tube, resulting in a razor-sharp edge...
thingiverse
To resolve this issue, I replaced the hot end with a standard CR10 hot end using this mounting block: https://www.creality3d.shop/collections/accessories/products/creality-3d-printer-full-assemble-mk8-exturder-set-for-cr-10-cr-10s-s4-s5. The mounting...
thingiverse
I designed this fan cover starting from the hot end fan gasket (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3142126). It stands out because it has two pins that perfectly fit into the two top holes, which are usually left unscrewed. ... This design differs...
thingiverse
I designed an aftermarket hot end head fan shroud for easier access and consistent airflow compared to the original box style. Meant for a CR-10S, it should fit most Creality or Ender printers with minimal modifications. Printed without supports at 7...
thingiverse
I bought this hot end bowden model for my CR10. I wanted to convert my Anet A8 into a bowden setup, and I needed a digital model in STL format for the parts of my new x-chassis. I found a link to an F3D file, but since I'm using FreeCAD, I started...
thingiverse
Prusa owners can find ready-to-print gcode files at PrusaPrinters – print ID 23294 Hot End Pen Holder. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ If you like this file or need some adjustments, feel free to leave a comment. A...
thingiverse
The original hot end design was altered to include a teflon liner, with most of the design borrowed from other successful hot ends. Designed for use with a bowden setup and water-cooled block, it could also work with an air-cooled non-bowden setup. A...
thingiverse
The hot end assembly I created is specifically designed for my larger Ultimaker printer. It features two front fixing holes to accommodate additional accessories, such as a DTI for bed leveling in my case. Additionally, I've added removable pieces on...
thingiverse
It doesn't provide light all around the hot end, but at least it shines a light to the front and right-hand side of the print head. I designed it thin so I could reuse the original screws for the cold end fan that still fit perfectly. I've replaced...
thingiverse
I've replicated Wildseyed Simple Hot End by jcabrer for my Simpler repstrap, but with adjustments due to living in Metric land along with the ROW (rest of the world). I discovered a way to use the unused M6 thread on the MIG tip advantageously,...
thingiverse
This DIY hotend design requires basic materials and tools without expensive machinery, inspired by popular hotends like Watson, KISS, and Wildseyed Simple Hot End. The current version is v3, which works exceptionally well for printing calibration...
prusaprinters
This is a 500% scale of a standard Creality hot end. It is a cross section model held together using magnets. Enables teaching of how the filament runs through the heat sink and into the heat block/nozzle via the bowden tube. A great way to teach...
prusaprinters
Here is my design of a Prusa Hot End pen holder! There are no supports needed for this print and you also won't need the MMU for a colored print, the color change is purely layer based. Dimensions are ~ W=14cm x D=8cm x H=12cm. And don‘t worry, you...
thingiverse
Hardware needed for installation OMG extruder https://a.co/d/5EBCMJK Pheatus Dragon WHF and or UHF or equivalent size ( most sites show dimensions) and everything that is needed to operate the liquid cooled hot end. -you will need the liquid cooler...
prusaprinters
"Hot End" is the name given to the nozzle on the 3D printer because it can get up to 260° hot during the printing process, depending on the type of filament. These nozzles have different outlet diameters and should be replaced from time to time due...
prusaprinters
"Hot End" is the name given to the nozzle on the 3D printer because it can get up to 260° hot during the printing process, depending on the type of filament. These nozzles have different outlet diameters and should be replaced from time to time due...
thingiverse
Also believe it helps with cooling since it's no longer pulling hot air off bed. Version 2 is more rounded out with a little more area for more airflow. Version 3: Easter special Version 4: Narwhal Version 5: Richard adds fan silencer that seems...
thingiverse
After machining, fill the small hole ends with soldered brazing rod and insert 4mm copper tubes. Connect it to a small gear pump or similar using soft 3mm i.d. silicone tube; maintaining coolness requires minimal flow rate. ...Visit http://reprappro.com...
grabcad
Begin by conceptualizing your object and sketching it out to visualize the end result. Then, use a 3D modeling software to bring your design to life in a digital format. Once you're satisfied with the design, export it as an STL file and prepare it...
thingiverse
This makes tube changes easier since the bowden tube only goes as far as the top of the cold end. One potential issue is that the washer used by CHEP to hold the internal tube in place is too large, preventing the tube fitting from being screwed on...
thingiverse
There are two files available here, one for the rear end cap that will accommodate both cables going up to the extruder motor and those heading to the extruder carriage with the hot end on it. This design focuses on cable management, keeping all...
thingiverse
Hello, I have created the end stop for Anycubic Vyper. There are also CAD files included in case you modify it. ... Kind regards SwissHidayat