anycubic enclosure 3d models

This is an LED 45 degree riser for use in the Rat Rig V-Core 3 300mm enclosure lid. It is two parts and requires two 12mm M6 bolts and drop in T-Nuts for each part. I specifically used this LED kit from Amazon US. <a...

You will also need to remove the cover on the back of the enclosure (overtop the z-axis) as the extruder is much closer to the bed and the bed will collide with it. On the same note, I have only tested with the X-Smart, not an actual Replicator or...

- Remove the top and bottom covers of the transceiver enclosure. - If desired, connect a 10-100 nF capacitor across the module output. - Use suitable power cable at most about 3 mm in diameter, 60 cm long. It is suggested to use RG-174 coax...

While you can still use it for your timelapse, it is not a flood light that brightens the whole enclosure.&nbsp;&nbsp;Items you needA spool of 24V led COB light15x20mm mini switchWires and Micro-Fit 3.0 3.0mm Pitch Connector Double (2x3...

This is only for expert users with their own crimping, cabling, and soldering equipment and is completely experimental.More info on Pico version-...

Note: Much stronger v2 version included 2021-05-05, See section below. An upgrade from using upcycled gelato tubs to hold silica beads in the upper deck of my lack printer enclosure where the open spools live. This container lets the air pass...

I have took my (now deleted) original filament guide and made it into a full enclosure. You now feed the filament into the opening where the narrowing cone channel aligns the filament exactly with the feed opening of the extruder. No more fiddling...

Printing instructions: Material: ABS (PETG should be fine, have not tested) Enclosure: Required for ABS, recommended for PETG. Nozzle Temp (ABS): 240C Bed Temp (ABS): 110C Support: Not required, except for Gauges Type 1 Adhesion: Brim...

PLA may be too soft when warm so use PETG, ABS, or print in resin. Designed for EPAX, Phrozen Transform and original Photon, but also works on other printers with metal enclosures such as the Shuffle. For plastic printers like the Photon-S or Zortrax...

The only reason to keep it in place would be if you're planning on building an enclosure around the frame for printing high-temperature materials (in that case, I'd recommend modifying it for an 80mm fan). After conducting a thorough search, I...

i printed version 4 using version 3 that was made from HIPS inside an enclosure and can report of no deformation. if you dont print enclosed and dont exceed like 260c on the hotend you might be able to get away with petg for this part. a...

Other items I've designed for my printers include a GT2 belt clamp for the Prusa Y-axis, Arduino Mega and RAMPS v1.4 cases, a steel 10mm upgrade for the Prusa i3, steel Y-axis motor mounts, an X-carriage, E3D Chimera/Cyclops mount, dual E3D...

... it sit for a few days. I tossed it into the space under the printer in my enclosure so the heat might help it cure. Take it out carefully, and you'll have a silicone sock for your Mosquito. ...Feel free to ask questions, and I'll answer what I can.

The most 'inelastic' support points to fix our 3030s are the areas closed to the top / base of the printer's case, and the rib inside the electronics enclosure. There the box shows "T" and "L" sections. Fixing points: I also used the threads...

• Power Switch Box - A convenient enclosure for adding an on/off switch in line with the supply PSU. Fit a rocker power switch and toggle switch for Spindle/laser selection. • M3-T-Nut - Utilise M3 nuts as sliding t-nuts on 2020 aluminium profile...

On top of that you get a much cleaner look.The LED strip is simply slid into the rail, which is then fixed with magnets to the corners of the enclosure.&nbsp;&nbsp;BEFOREAFTER (without cable duct)&nbsp;AFTER (with cable duct)The LED rail is slightly...

Then the enclosure from COMGROW (also availiable from Amazon) fits around the OLM3, because the lower poles of the tent can run along under the base plate.Just for information: The center of the OLM3 workspace is not exactly in the middle of the...

Do you ever use a voice chat app to talk to your buddies while playing games? Don't you hate having to open up Windows Mixer to adjust the volume of the chat and the game? Maxmix is an open-source sound mixer that allows you to control the volume of...

The housing consists of several single pieces and all can be printed with the outside of the enclosure on the plain glass surface which makes it look shiny. The walls are quite thin to prevent from warping, but nevertheless I recommend to print...

The kit includes: * Shorter belt tensioner (V1 or V2 depending on what you want) * Shorter motor mount The original project had multiple printed parts that made the overall length of the axis too long, so I reworked more compact parts to allow my...

I am including a basic ESP32 controller enclosure, plus code and wiring instructions here: https://github.com/jaisor/ESP_LED_Controller/tree/RingLight ## ESP32 controller features * Several basic animated modes, easily expandable * WiFi connected...

I have pretty much everything lying around, so I've decided to design this enclosure for the IR LEDs, Raspberry and NoIR cam, then build it. It's still a bit rough, but everything sits just fine and works perfectly. You can find more information...

... is low. The version of the Pi camera enclosure used is this one by hackoholic, which allows the ribbon cable to exit the bottom instead of the top: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2352964 Thanks to all the original designers and remixers.

This part / mod is ideal for those using the A1 in a non-climate controlled space such as an enclosure, garage, shed, basement, print farms, etc. However it can be used on any A1 and in theory should help keep internal temperature low and decrease...

When printing a large circle, the filament still popped off the side of the spool and I'm going to be doing a lot of ABS printing, so need something that will allow a top enclosure. I like the spool holder but I was having trouble with the filament...

Other parts designed for my printers include: - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1959901 (GT2 belt clamp (Prusa Y-axis)) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1937232 (Arduino Mega and RAMPS v1.4 case) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1905409 (Prusa...

Other parts designed for my printers include: - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1959901 (GT2 belt clamp (Prusa Y-axis)) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1937232 (Arduino Mega and RAMPS v1.4 case) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1905409 (Prusa...

It is not a toy, not for kids and if you build one I recommend that you at the very least use it inside a proper enclosure. Neodymium magnets are not toys, they can attract metal and other magnets (no surprise) and they are brittle and prone to...

I have designed an enclosure for the panel that mimics a "proper" monitor. The final design has both tilt and up/down adjustment (the latter is more for fun as it only lifts by ~20mm).</p> <p>Another "just for fun" is the inclusion of my pretend...

When you insert the magnet be careful to put it at the same height as the printed part and put some glue onto the magnet to be sure that the upper layer sticks to it; -if you are not confident to pause the printer or your magnet sticks to the nozzle...