anycubic chiron 3d printer

This is a customized version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3195516's "Chiron hotend housing and wire guide" by jangermann, modified to be compatible with the E3D V6 hotend.\r\n\r\nRevisions include:\r\nThe circuit board was relocated to the...

This is a remix of pcr150 version found here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3339250. ...I made changes to allow it to fit my Chiron and not make contact with the captivated nut holding the x axis wheel carriage and clear the mounting plate.

I used this mount to fit a hemera onto my Chiron. ...&nbsp;Remixed from Tmaxx21 on thingiverse at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4297095</p><p>&nbsp;I removed the part of the mount that holds the original I/0 board since I don't need...

My Take on the LED Strip Holder for the Chiron - A Customized Solution. Attach 70cm LED Strips, consisting of two 35cm sections, using cable ties for a secure fit. ...Then, power them directly from the PSU with a Step-Down Converter.

Once I had the new plate the rest was simple matter of dismantling the printer heated bed and removing the two 2040 extrusions that hold the roller sub-assembly for the heated bed. Once the two 2040 extrusions are removed the linear rails need to...

My Chiron's filettated bar is vibrating a lot... I tried to solve this problem by designing new angles that would replace the originals. I got the idea from this project: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3363460 but I reworked it entirely to suit my...

... require tree supports to be printed. -Use Existing screws that come with BIQU and the screws that are removed from the Chiron Hot end for mounting new BIQU H2 Parts -Slot behind mount plate allows routing hotend fan and X axis limit switch wiring.

**Update: I've Enhanced the Duct for Improved Air Flow Focusing Towards the Nozzle** **Update 2: Eliminated Interference Between the Duct and Heat Block, Boosting Performance** I Designed This Upgrade to Optimize the Fan Duct on the Chiron, Resulting...

I only plan to use this design for small prints because the rod needs to be significantly extended to accommodate the 450mm build height of the Chiron. However, that's a project for another day. Update 30/05/2019: I discovered that trying to fix...

So I basically re-created the existing Chiron cable mount under the heatbed, and spliced on a cable chain female connector to it (again, remixed from eth4ck1e's file), sizing it to fit my cable chain dimensions. This allowed me to connect the chain...

Servus,dachte mir, ich nehm es mal selber in die Hand und zeichne mir ein neues Housing für den Chiron, da das Alte nicht wirklich schön ist und es soweit nichts zu finden gibt. Es handelt sich hierbei nur um ein optisches Upgrade, das neue Housing...

If you've ever disassembled your Chiron, you'll have noticed that the mounts for the top of the z shafts are slightly loose (about 2mm play). This design is intended to replace them directly and is part of a major overhaul I'm working on. The design...

I always got big problems with stringing on the Chiron. With "direct drive" these problems are gone. Important: You also can use the standard hotendhousing. Retractionsettings compared to each other: Before: (still much stringing) retraction -...

I think this is everything needed, and I added fan ducts as well, but they are not my design - only the mount for them I added a place for the Chiron terminal block. Newest Version is the V4.1 - and it's my final one! Check it out.. I have printed...

I designed a plug-and-play Z axis anti-wobble system that works with most 3D printers using 8mm rods and NEMA 17 stepper motors (approximately 40x40mm). ...I prefer it to a top cap holder because if the Z rods are not perfectly straight, it doesn't...

A Remix to Bo1o1o1's mount which adds support for mounting a BLTouch. Note: This is designed to be used with a Volcano hotend NOT the standard V6. If anyone wants a V6 version I'll move the mounting point 10mm higher, just leave a comment. Print...

My Chiron has modifications that affect the configuration for a stock machine, so you'll need to take them into account and modify accordingly for your machine. I use BMG extruder, so check the steps and motor sense of yours. IMPORTANT! Please...

Auch der Bed-Leveling Sensor von Anycubic der mit einem Magneten befestigt wird, kann weiterhin verwendet werden. Ihr müsst das Kabel für den Extrudermotor verlängern und durch die Kabelkette führen. Der originale Titan-Extruder von E3D passt...

Auch der Bed-Leveling Sensor von Anycubic der mit einem Magneten befestigt wird, kann weiterhin verwendet werden. Ihr müsst das Kabel für den Extrudermotor verlängern und durch die Kabelkette führen. Der originale Titan-Extruder von E3D passt...

... it at the far and. ...Due to limited space you might need riser feet. and mounting the fan on the outside of the PSU. If you wish to take a look at my latest version see: https://a360.co/2IoVNSC Print instructionsCategory: 3D Printer Accessories

People are looking at this thing on Thingiverse, which is a website that lets users share and download 3D models. ...The model they're checking out is called "3D Printed Wooden Puzzle".

I found that I had to move my screen due to where my printer was living. I wanted it hinged but not permanently attached. @Serya gave me the idea to use the 20mm aluminum frame. @Barld-Har gave the idea of the hinge. Designed in Designspark...

... bed. My printed version was made with PLA on my first printer and has been performing flawlessly ever since. This part is compatible with the hotend cooler duct and should just graze its bottom surface when installed. Good luck and happy printing!

I opted to steer clear of all the unconventional conversions floating around, instead choosing to keep my printer's design refreshingly straightforward. To achieve this, I crafted a spacer that effortlessly takes care of the task at hand when...

I redesigned my z-axis stabilizer for the back side of the printer. The bottom part stays the same and also the lenght of the aluminium profile. ... Check out the first version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4605511 What you need: 2x...

Great and simple conversion design, but since I used PLA for my printer, I had issues with the extruder motor (gets warm+) starting to twist and warp the bracket over time. To try and prevent this, I made the top, left & right sides thicker and...

... shroud to be set up high enough to clear the bed clips, and still works with the auto level probe, all this while retaining amazing flow where its needed. This was designed to be printable on both Resin and FDM style printers with minimal effort.

I didn't want to do all the weird and wonderful conversions that people posted, I wanted to keep my printer more 'vanilla' looking. So I designed this spacer which when tightened does the job perfectly. Spacer is 9.5mm (there is 1CM of space but...

...The goal was to simply redesign the back of the printer to allow for effortless access to prints. Required parts: 8pc PH2 M5x60mm screws 2pc M10 threaded rods 8pc Flat head M10 bolts The printed part can be produced in PLA or a stronger material.

Use the same bearing and bolts that came with the printer. Assembly is quick and easy. Slip on dust caps provide easy access to replace TPU dampers should they ever need to be replaced. ...Not sure who the original designer was for the corners as I used...