anti backlash nut block for 8mm metric acme lead screw 3d models

A handheld lever for manually controlling the movement of the Z-axis gantry.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4441076 presented a thumb screw to replace the wing nut on the front-left corner of the BIBO bed. It is too wide for the other two positions. I have created a smaller version to fit the right-front corner and the...

I wasn't entirely satisfied with the 5/16" threaded rod application, so I decided to purchase an 8mm Lead Screw kit that included a coupler, lead screw, and bearing brackets. I replaced the pineapple coupler with the 5mm to 8mm flex coupler, and...

I made a simple tool to straighten the lead screw to reduce the Z-wobble introduced by a bend lead screw. Simply watch the dial gauge and bend the lead screw to minimize the deviation. I have also added an adjustable dial gauge mount if you use a...

The original design was revised to include a state-of-the-art anti-backlash system, ideal for use with LM8UU bearings. This particular design focuses on linear bearing versions rather than bushing models. To assemble this product successfully, you...

This is a flat ball bearing based Anti-Z-Wobble lead nut. Which is simple, and prevents or reduces wobble on printing very well. And easy to make! ...

It prevents both nut backlash and x/y movement of the z-rod, with an optional improvement. To assemble the z-isolator, you'll need 2 printed parts, 4 M8 nuts, and 2 springs. First, drill your x-ends to allow for x/y z-rod movement. Then, install...

Left kick to counter a potential backlash.

Orca v0.3's anti-backlash Z nut holders are available in STL format, sized for linear bearings. The SCAD file allows customization of offset from Y carriage. Design inspiration came from Emaker/Reprappro Huxley's lead screw holders. V8 incorporates...

I opted for a 3D printed 5/18 nut since I reside in a metric region and figured it would suffice - if it wears out, simply print a new one. I've attached images of the two plates holding the nut and the nut itself; I highly recommend printing these...

2 Options, just use a standard 3mm screw or use an M3x4x4.2 (M3x3x4.2 for 5mm) nut set. Just use a screw to force the nut set inside. And use with a 3mmx6 grub screw. ...The Solidworks files are somewhat parametric if you choose to resign.

Click the "I made one" button and share your print photos! ...Your support means everything to me. You're looking at a clear demonstration of lead on 8mm diameter lead screws, with measurements in millimeters: 2mm, 4mm, and 8mm.

I turned those two wood parts holding the nut upside down and super glued the nut to the part. I installed longer M3 screws - 4mm long, along with four springs purchased from Aliexpress, to push the entire wood assembly upwards. ...At first glance, it...

... ... I recommend printing with a layer height of 0.3 and a line width of 0.4 for maximum speed. Arrange the model in the slicer as in the screenshot. Small backlashes can be eliminated with BLUE electrical tape (Must be blue), 1-2 turns are enough.

... so handle them carefully when putting them together. You will need to secure the system with two M5 nuts, along with two high-quality springs that measure at least 28.5mm long x 9mm in diameter and can exert a force of approximately 2.33N/mm each.

... nut. ABS should be avoided due to excessive flexing; PLA offers better wear resistance as well. Tap the center nut for 5/16th's and the 4 bolt holes for M4. Attach it to the main lead screw, and experience significantly reduced backlash and banding.

At first, the nut runs very tightly, after some time of operation, a slight backlash appears, within 0.15-0.3mm UPD Added a model with reduced clearances (T8hard.stl). In the first version, the inner diameter is 7.2mm, the outer diameter is 8.9 The...

I used a 3D printed 5/18 nut because, living in a metric country, I figured it would be enough and if it wears out you can always print another one. I've attached two plates that hold the nut and the nut itself. I recommend printing these at a bigger...

User-Friendly Adjustment Lever for Vertical Feed Screw Featuring Robust Mounting Screws for Enhanced Stability.

Inspired by Pratyeka's post on the Tiko forums, read that for more information on using weights to reduce backlash in the Tiko. There are also easier and cheaper methods to add weight, but I was looking for an excuse to try metal casting in a 3D...

For more information on the metal casting process, refer to my blog post: http://thrinter.com/metal-casting-with-a-plastic-printer/ Optional slots are included for embedding magnets within the weights. Exterior slots hold interior magnets in place,...

Designed these connectors to link T8 lead screws with both 8mm and 2mm leads directly to NEMA 23 stepper motors. I've also developed designs for collars and clamps, which you can find among my other creations. The connectors are threaded to fit...

I added anti-backlash nuts to the X axis of the remix that HyperRC did - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3765468 Example anti-backlash nut:...

I added anti-backlash nuts to the X axis of the remix that HyperRC did - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3765468 Example anti-backlash nut:...

I added anti-backlash nuts to the X axis of the remix that HyperRC did - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3765468 Example anti-backlash nut:...

This is the base model used to manufacture an anti-backlash nut for milling machines like the Busy Bee CT129N or the equivalent BF20 and KC20VS. Essentially all these models can be converted into a CNC mill, and reducing lash in the X and Y axes is...

See the picture for the dimensions. ...Design is for 3030 profiles

Prusa i3 owners can modify the Split X-Ends design found at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:514582 for a custom fit. ...As of 2016-04-20, this version is specifically designed for an M5 variant, but further customization is possible.

This particular bearing, an MR688-2RS model, is what I'm using for this project. ...You can check it out here:...

If you also have a more bent M8-rod, I recommend checking out this part designed by @aurhe for the same printer: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1975163 I'm using both parts - @aurhe's design for isolating the top of the rod and V3 of my accessory...