anet a8 y tensioner 3d models

In addition to the X axis modifications, I designed the bed carriage, mounting elements, sensor support, sensor extension arm, and Y belt holder for the Y axis. The Y belt holder was also printed with 100% infill. To prevent oil from seeping into...

I managed to find a way to align dual extruders in the y-direction, freeing up valuable space on the hotbed. One-piece designs often prove challenging without supports, and attempting to print with them results in a non-functional outcome. After...

Enlarged the idler holder bolt's slot from CH35C0's belt tensioner to fit Raiscube's original Y-axis bolt, which is M6 in size. The bolt and plate have very small tolerances, so you should scale down the bolt by 1% if you're not confident in your...

As I constructed my Prusa MK2 from a vintage rep kit, I opted to utilize 10mm threaded rods throughout its foundation. ...I designed this Y-axis tensioner specifically for the MK2 and reinforced it to accommodate the 10mm rod's increased demands.

Simple Y-axis belt tensioner for nice TATARA frame, requiring the following components: You'll need two M3x40 screws, two M3 nuts, and two spring washers D3.2 to get started. ... To complete the assembly, you will also require four M3x16 screws (or...

Introduced Y-axis tensioning through the idler. Designed based on twelvepro's Prusa i3 blueprint. Adjustable length in scad file. ...Features M5 nut and bolt along with two 625 bearings for tightening purposes, secured by a m3 nut and bolt at the rear.

I'm Looking for the Y-Belt Tensioner Upgrade (In My Pictures Not Yet Set) Two rods, four nuts - that's all I need to create affordable PLA upgrades using less material and time. Hints are greatly appreciated! ... Sorry Guys...My First Upload...They Are...

I cut my Y belt too short, so instead of cutting a new strip I decided to make longer tensioners to fit in the acrylic hole. Print Settings: Printer: Geeetech I3 Pro C Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: Any Infill: Dense Notes: Make sure you...

I intend this design to enhance the acrylic frame on which the Y-axis motor is mounted, preventing it from bending. This is a revised version with screw holes added and a simpler model for easier printing. Note that it took 13 hours to print. I...

Disappointed by the inaccuracy of y-axis prints, I pinpointed the source of the issue as insufficient tension in the Y belt. This minor add-on effectively resolves that problem, significantly improving print quality. It should be a standard feature...

Once I upgraded my bed, jopereira hit a snag with my y tensioner which struck the bed, causing me to lose significant bed printing area on the back of the bed. The link to the bed upgrade is -> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2436602. I highly...

This is a simple Y axis tensioner designed specifically for the k8200. Constructed with the aim of tightening my GT2 belt, the tensioner resolves the issue of the belt rubbing against the X axis rail by skillfully lowering it out of contact. ...1 x...

I Modified the Y Tensioner Bracket to Fix Fouls between the Bracket and the Y Carriage. It Now Clears Everything When Fitted Flush to the End of the V-Slot Extrusion. I Redesigned This Bracket from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3694789. ... I Also...

The Y-Axis GT2 Belt Tensioner by swholmstead proved to be the most straightforward and visually appealing solution I discovered to tackle the issue of a loose y-axis belt on my printer. His design was specifically engineered to fit into a bracket on...

It fits over the stock Ender 3 v2 y-axis tensioner well enough that you can figure out a go/no-go. Most of us have changed the bed springs and I used some fat spirings I had on hand, no idea how they relate to the die springs most upgrade to so check...

I am creating an accessory known as the Axis Belt Holder.

I've found that many of those alligator-teeth brackets didn't make it for me because they were so close to the bed, and as a result, they would break or warp and become loose. This design, on the other hand, uses the classic looping method, which has...

The screws used should be 3.5mm diam. The holes are 4mm, to account for shrinkage in PLA under normal conditions. ...The base is 8mm deep, so the screws should be >8mm long at least and the heads should be >3.5mm.

The Problem: You print a large object and the slicer places it at the center of the printing bed. However, once the print is complete, it appears as though someone pushed it slightly to one side and towards the back. This issue arises from poorly...

The worn stock bushings suffered severe damage from excessive dust buildup on the rods. One of the rods had its protective coating completely scraped off. I attempted to use a design from Thingiverse, but unfortunately, it didn't fit my rod due to...

I have "broken" a key component of the chain to make it simpler to install and remove cables without having to disconnect them completely. This modified part also facilitates the process of mounting the chain. In addition, some components have been...

I design and build my own custom YAxxis mounting systems from scratch.

This thing was made with Tinkercad. ...Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3EQKqKI8meW

My inventory includes two pieces of 450mm 2020 V-slot extrusion, four OpenBuild V-slot gantries, and four 4M x 2mm screw button heads. ...All of the original screws will be reused.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4441076 presented a thumb screw to replace the wing nut on the front-left corner of the BIBO bed. It is too wide for the other two positions. I have created a smaller version to fit the right-front corner and the...

Other Wheel Spinner with more stability and a more comfortable suspension

Here's another one of my first designs and prints from last year, which just might help keep those motors cooled. If I were to recommend a material, I'd say go with ABS - it's the way to go if you ever plan on printing with ABS. The ambient air...

This modification maintains the original 15mm exterior diameter linear bearings of the original 15mm diameter bars (machine sourced). I haven't printed them yet. If someone decides to do it, I would appreciate any comments or possible...

My axis appears to be skewed, and it's clear that a glitch in the programming is at fault, so recalibrating the equipment seems like the logical next step.

I created these STL files using FreeCad software. The reason was that I could not find any models on Thingiverse that actually fit the 8mm rods. My STL files worked great for me and I hope they will wor for you too. How you print these is up to you....