anet a8 hot bed 3d models
180161 3d models found related to anet a8 hot bed.thingiverse
To prevent the belt from deforming, an Anet A8 hot bed upgrade can be made by adjusting the frame's distance from the actuator. ...This modification ensures proper alignment and tension of the belt, reducing the risk of deformation caused by excessive...
myminifactory
These clamps are designed specifically for use with 20x21x3mm glass beds on Anet A8 printers, or any bed smaller than the Anet aluminium hotbed. The goal was to eliminate paperclip collisions with nozzles entirely, while also enabling precise glass...
thingiverse
... System This system is designed to provide a precise and efficient solution for leveling heat beds on 3D printers. ...The Heat Leveler System consists of three main components: a heat bed, a temperature control unit, and a precision leveling mechanism.
cults3d
these clamps are intended for use with 20x21x3mm glass beds on anet a8 (or more in general any bed smaller than the anet aluminium hotbed). the aim was to definitely remove the paperclips avoiding noozle collision as much as possible, allow glass...
thingiverse
These clamps are designed specifically for use with 20x21x3mm glass beds on the Anet A8, or any smaller bed than the standard Anet aluminium hotbed. The primary goal was to eliminate paperclip obstruction and minimize nozzle collisions as much as...
thingiverse
... Push the bearings in until they snap into place. Use some force to get them there. P.S. My parts are in action! Check out this video: https://youtu.be/cJ1K7rZsdtY Print Settings: Printer: Anet A8 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2 Infill: 30%
prusaprinters
After my original Anet A8 hotbed connector has blown away, I thought that it was maybe caused by the cable banging my wall and decided to add strain relief to avoid this. This design is heavily inspired by the one from emklaus, even if it was fully...
thingiverse
After my original Anet A8 hotbed connector went flying out of my hands, I suspected that the cable must have been banging against the wall and causing the problem. To prevent this from happening again in the future, I decided to add some strain...
cults3d
... these after i modded the hotbed by removing the connector. print both with support, maybe a little of filing is needed after support removal. for other parts please visit my collection: https://www.thingiverse.com/aRGiRob/collections/my-anet-a8
thingiverse
... from the hotbed during a modification process. ...These mounts can be printed with support, but some filing may be necessary after removing the supports. For more parts, visit my collection at https://www.thingiverse.com/aRGiRob/collections/my-anet-a8
thingiverse
I made necessary changes to this section after identifying a number of problems.
thingiverse
This clever solution shields the wires from wear and tear as they're connected to the heated platform, potentially even functioning flawlessly with the standard connector in place. ...To ensure precise placement, the pre-printed marks serve as a guide...
thingiverse
I'm diving headfirst into 3D printing, and this is my very first design upgrade. Starting from scratch with CAD as well, I know there's a lot of room for growth. But this little mod prints fast and takes the pressure off the connector wires - it's a...
cults3d
This clamp secures the aluminum hot bed mirror on Anet A8. It should also work with other models. It fits snugly and holds the mirror firmly in place. A grip feature makes it easy to manipulate with your hands. ... Bed size: 220x220x3mm Mirror size:...
thingiverse
A cable management solution for the Heat Bed of the Anet A8 3D printer has been designed to keep cables organized and out of the way. This design attaches directly to the springs of the heat bed, preventing interference with the nozzle, especially...
thingiverse
Place the Anet A8 heated bed on the table with a 3mm glass cover. I recommend using ABS plastic because it can withstand the temperature of the heated bed. ... Set the infill to 30% and the resolution to 0.2.
cults3d
TO FASTEN THE BELT TO THE SHAFT AND TO THE HOT BED PLATE OF AN ANET A8 PLUS
thingiverse
Welcome to the one and only hot-swappable heated bed upgrade for the Anet A8 Plus 3D printer! This design allows you to quickly place a heated bed onto the 4 insulated pads while a set of spring-loaded tension clamps on the corners fasten it into...
thingiverse
These models were designed to secure: glass + hot bed + a cork layer around 3mm thick. The type of cork used determines which clip works best. It's best to try each one to see which is most suitable for your setup. Measurements: 7 - 7.5 - 8. ...For me,...
cults3d
0.2MM LAYER HEIGHT. ...PRINT 4 EQUAL PIECES ONE FOR EACH SLIDE OF THE GUIDE. THAT ATTACH TO THE HOT BED PLATE.
cults3d
Clips de distintos tamaños interiores para poder sujetar correctamente la cama caliente y el cristal. Estos modelos están creados con la idea de sujetar: cristal + cama caliente + corcho de unos 3mm. Dependiendo el tipo de corcho funciona uno u...
thingiverse
Designed for Anet A6/A8/AM8/BLV converted to 24V with using the hotplate from Anet ET4. 4 mm cork thermal insulation on the bottom of the plate. Based on the FT5 713 Glass Corner project by davebpix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2702867 but...
thingiverse
... bed Anet A6/AnetA8. ...It prevents sparks and accidental disconnection of the plug. Compatible with the thermal insulation of the heat bed. Based on conception Anet A8 Hot Bed Strain Relief by jasonletchworth http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2066067
thingiverse
Needed a new bed for my Anet A8+ couldn't find a original one The closest in size I found was the Cr-10 bed on Amazon wich is 310x310 and uses the same resistors and thermistor. The only issue i had was that the holes of the normal bed frame didn't...
thingiverse
Attachments to the wing nuts on the Anet A3 bed. It fits snugly into the larger opening of the wing nut, eliminating any hassle associated with its installation. ...A user previously employed a different design for their wing nuts but struggled to get...
thingiverse
Once the print was finished, I sprayed the bed black with PLA still attached after two even coats; I let it dry completely before removing the PLA and spraying the glass with blue paint - two coats again. The result was a high-resolution finish...