anet a8 board upgrade 2020 3d models
224325 3d models found related to anet a8 board upgrade 2020.thingiverse
I'm upgrading to a brand new Autobedlevelingsensormount. The old one's starting to warp due to excessive heat from the Hotend. ...I've got some updates on the new design - it's better than before, with options for 18mm and 12mm mounts.
thingiverse
... system. This crucial feature is absent, despite being integral to its overall functionality. To address this issue, I've attached the clamp holder directly to the motherboard screws, effectively upgrading the device's stability and usability.
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Aluminium Frame Upgrade Power Supply: Power supply Mean Well LRS-350-24 can be found at this link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4116720 The case to pair with it is the SKR v1.3 + BIQU mosfet + 2x 40 mm fan, available here:...
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So, I decided to redesign the whole thing from scratch, taking into account the M3 screws and nuts that come standard with the Anet (assuming you've got some spare 19mm long ones lying around). The back of this design is carefully crafted to match...
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The barrel is the original Anet, I've modified it by changing the Teflon tube with one that goes from the nozzle to the highest part of the upper thread guide, the nozzle I put one from a E3DV6 clone, although I'm waiting for an original Volcano, I...
thingiverse
COTS: 4 x M3 screws L:20mm with flat head 2 x M3 screws L:40mm with flat head 2 x M3 screws L:20mm hex socket cap 4 x M3 nuts (DIN 934) 4 x M3 nuts with nylon lock (self-locking) I've reused the original Anet bearing f623zz. Thanks for sharing your...
thingiverse
Hi, I recently upgraded my E3D V6 by mounting a brand new fan, designed specifically for this new setup. My old fan wasn't sufficient anymore, so I created one from scratch and it worked perfectly after only a few test runs. Feel free to use this...
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To achieve this, I plan to repurpose the Z-axis sensor from my recent upgrade to BL Touch. To create the unit, I'll need two identical components, which will be formed by duplicating the design. ...The selected screws are M3 x 12, paired with M3 lock...
thingiverse
You'll be printing four distinct components, with two of them designed to sit neatly on a table, while the other two are intended to securely hold various items like a board, a plate, or even the part meant for milling operations.
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... saw its demise within just seven days - stress had cracked the tab on the outer ring, rendering it useless. I've gone back to the drawing board and come up with a revised version boasting a sturdier and more streamlined mount. ... Check it out!
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I couldn't bore holes into the TATARA frame (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2736479), so I designed a custom mount specifically for the MiniRambo board. ...To assemble it, you'll still need to use the original spacers between the frame and this...
thingiverse
This updated version is compatible with both stock A8 frames and AM8 frames, which require 2xM5x10 bolts and 2xM5 T-Slot nuts. It works perfectly for an 8mm thick acrylic frame and can be easily modified upon request. Required materials include: ...
prusaprinters
The acrylic frame on one of my old A8s was starting to flex enough to push the Y-axis stepper out of alignment and affect print quality. I could go into detail on the engineering and physics of this, but it boils down to these printers needing...
thingiverse
Hello, I've built a frame for my A8 using 35x35 treated timber. It was a total cost of around £30. Here's what you'll need: * 35 x 35 timber (3m long, possibly longer due to cuts) * Miter saw * Wood screws * L Brackets x 8 * T brackets x 4 *...
thingiverse
... and inevitably knocks it over. ... This is more of an advanced upgrade for anyone who's getting bored with low-risk printing and likes to live life on the edge. It can also be used as a tray or something less cool. ... DO NOT PUT DRINKS ON THIS!
thingiverse
This innovative design empowers users to seamlessly integrate an 80MM PC fan, while simultaneously reorienting the main board from its standard position to provide effortless access to both the USB and SD card slot. For optimal results, M3 hardware...
thingiverse
This is a revised version of MBTech's primary board casing with door. Initially, I encountered issues with the door deforming and flexing excessively, prompting me to fortify it for added stability. ...Additionally, I expanded the holes in the case to...
thingiverse
The original board features a robust design and high-quality components, making it ideal for 3D printing enthusiasts who demand reliability and precision. This model boasts a large heated bed capable of reaching temperatures up to 100°C, perfect for...
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I needed a solution to mount dual mosfets, so I found a bracket that attached above the board but it wasn't ideal since I'm still using an SD card. ...Unfortunately, I didn't take a photo before mounting it, but it was a hasty and rough setup - you...
thingiverse
Recently, I've ordered a dual-color 3D printer upgrade kit from AliExpress...
cults3d
I created the initial design but soon realized it needed a crucial upgrade: robust reinforcement at the hotend mount point. So, I decided to give it a major overhaul by incorporating an inductive sensor. However, my first print was made from PETG,...
thingiverse
--- If you're using a RAMPS board and an 12864 LCD display, like me, you probably find the large hole at the top of your frame to be quite frustrating. I designed this cover specifically to address that issue. Additionally, my wiring and bowden tube...
thingiverse
Here are a few things you should keep in mind: Don't place your printer on a wooden board - it will bend during printing and affect the quality of your prints. The best surface for your printer is a sheetrock plate. Place a 5cm styrodur...
thingiverse
The Anet A8 Y Stabilizer Upgrade - A Game-Changer for 3D Printing Enthusiasts Everywhere
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This is a remake of magnets sized at 10 by 4 millimeters.
thingiverse
I have this designed to keep my printer stable.\nWith this design, you can easily place your printer on a flat surface with six bolts and nuts.\nIt's very easy to assemble, you just need your components threaded through the correct bars and then...
thingiverse
This is a work in progress and is currently being printed. Many revisions will come. Need to test tolerances and create hot end mount & Z-stop mount. Printing in PLA for prototype then will use PC or Nylon on final rev. Thanks for stopping...
thingiverse
Hi Everyone, this is my design, thinked for holding the Sunlu spools. It works with the 608 bearings. The bearings holes are a bit larger, because you can leave the debris that are difficult to remove, when you cut the supports inside the recess,...