anet a6 3d models

I'm replacing a faulty acrylic holder for my model fan cooler with a sturdy new one.

Subscribe now to stay up-to-date on the latest news and updates! ...https://youtu.be/V-q_PJ_qY5Y Get ready for an upgraded version of this amazing creation - check out the second version here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2340193

I designed a custom 40mm fan adapter to replace the standard 40mm extruder fan. This was necessary because I purchased a quieter 40x40x20mm fan to substitute for the noisy original one. The new fan's thickness made it impossible to simply swap out...

Because the exit opening on the original air nozzle was too small for me, I drew a new air nozzle. The old nozzle had an outlet of 1mm x 14mm. The new one has an outlet of 4mm x 25mm. ...Therefore, the cross-sectional area increased sevenfold.

To calibrate the bed of your printer, start by printing calibration cubes at a height of 140mm to 150mm. With four pieces printed and your printer set up, place one cube in each corner of the bed and you're good to go. ... In this version, measurements...

You require just four rubber bands to get started.

Holder for filament runout sensor switch attachment. Directly attached to a direct drive extruder, this holder takes up no extra space. Securely held in place using the existing nut and bolt combination already on hand. ...No additional screw holes...

Here is the new 480W power supply with a switch, featuring a power socket and fuse. This design is specifically for the S-480-12 model, which requires 150x50 mounting holes. ...To prepare the base plate, carefully drill three identical holes using a...

I made this mount so I can adjust the height of my sensor because the nozzle on my printer isn't always at the same level. I also created a calibration block that's 8.3mm thick, which is the recommended distance between the bed and the sensor body.

This creation came into being through the use of Tinkercad, and users can make adjustments to it directly on the website at https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7kZn4F2B3gQ.

This is an elementary cover for the power supply unit. It's engineered to replace the basic electrical connection with a IEC320 connector. To assemble this project, you'll need to drill holes for the screws and strongly recommend gluing the parts in...

The printer's original part can't reach up to 200mm, it consistently gets stuck.\r\nWith this upgrade, I can now extend my printing capabilities up to 230mm while eliminating the annoying Z vibration and oscillation issues.\r\n\r\nThis modification...

To assemble the Z-axis, attach the auto-leveling holder. ...However, since there's limited space, you'll need to join "right_inner_x_rod_brace_remix" and "right_z_carriage_remix" using glue instead of screws.

The project is a reworked version of the original 18mm sensor holder designed for the LJC18A3-H-Z/BX. ...The model, found on Thingiverse as #1785616, has been revised to include adjustments to openings and add more nut holes underneath.

Printed ABS plastic using BestFilament. ...Fill the extruder to capacity for optimal results.

I've Revamped the Fan Duct for Enhanced Performance and Customization. It's Now Ready for You to Tailor to Your Needs. What's New in Version 3? Flow Simulations Are Now Integrated, Offering a More Accurate Representation of Airflow Dynamics. This...

Mainboard Box: This massive mainboard box is designed to securely hold a double MOSFET, featuring large holes for wire passage. The distinctive hexagonal openings are strategically placed for optimal ventilation. To reduce print time, I cleverly...

This setup offers a practical alternative to traditional X belt locking methods, ideal for applications where frequent mounting and unmounting of the X belt is required, such as when replacing the x-axis assembly. ...While it enables effortless...

You will require one 40mm fan for the large cooler, four 10mm neodymium disc magnets for the extruder fan, and one auto-level sensor.

I designed a back brace that stabilizes the acrylic frame, greatly reducing the wobbling of the z-axis. The brace was made to fit my front brace, which is available on Thingiverse as item 3253243. Unfortunately, I couldn't integrate the limit switch...

Hey everyone! I've just published sources for the Franky x-carriage. ...If you want to add a BLTouch or make some changes, it's now going to be much simpler.

This is a 12V 24 SMD LED Panel Mount. You can find it at http://s.aliexpress.com/R36VNN7R. To install it, use two M3 screws and nuts. The panel's beam has a hole that allows you to run the LED wiring through it. ...I only used a support for the cover,...

You can build the device directly into its final form without taking it apart completely first.

I mounted a bltouch sensor to my 3D printer's carriage. ...It perfectly matches the design of this carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2658012.

La ubicación del cableado original, obstruye algunos movimientos, así que modifique el eslabón de johnniewhiskey y diseñe los extremos. ...Hay que introducir un recorte de filamento en el eslabón para dar estabilidad a la cadena porta cables

This is a fixing cube for the hotbed level. ...For example, if you have a Autolevel Sensor.

This holder is for the mosfet manufactured by MKS.\nRemove the two lower screws and spacer underneath the mainboard, replacing them with your chosen mosfet holder.\nYou will need four M3x8 size screws to mount the mosfet.\nPlease view the pictures...

The laser-cut holes in the acrylic plates are slightly oversized for the linear rods, causing them to rattle when printing. Engineered to attach on the opposite side of the rod retainers or directly above the Z motor mounts, these inserts help...

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I came up with this sensor holder myself because I already have a customized fan plate and wanted to mount it closer to the hot end. ...It also fits well when the x-axis is on the far right, which was an added bonus.