3d print speed test

The ball housing needs to be printed in black for it to trigger the sensor properly. The ball is a tight fit, and I use PETG filament; I press the ball in with pliers. When the filament is absent, there's a 8x3mm round magnet on the back that pulls...

I made it that way just because it can be printed without supports. The three holes are used to line up the two pieces. Drill them out a little and you can use a short piece of filament to aid in the process and just trim them off flush with that...

I printed these parts using a delta-style printer, employing the following settings: For the Rings & Handle: - Layer height: 0.2mm - Outside perimeters: 2 - Top and bottom solid layers: 3 - Infill density: 20% full Honeycomb For the Clamps: - Layer...

The fit of the Pi 4 in it hasn't been verified yet since I haven't printed it. Boxes for the Pi 3 and Pi 4 with the Pi shifted to the right side and a small cutout directly across from the USB power connector have also been added. This allows you to...

Print nose with supports everywhere and 20% support density. Also use 20% support density with support brim, support roof, and support towers enabled on the LID. Use four walls and 20% infill or more on the nose, and 40% on the LID. The lid also...

I configured the K-factor of linear advance feature to 0 in firmware, and it's necessary to configure it before every print in start G-code using a value of 0.7. I'm using this start G-code in Cura: M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed...

... structure (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4695870). So I also redesigned the 140mm spindle. It now has a hole at the top where you can put a (colored) steel ball. Also, the bottom edge is rounded to make printing the bottom a little easier.

Separating the parts: I recommend cutting as far as possible along the bridges formed during printing between the two parts before inserting the truss screw into its hole. Only then should you finish breaking the bridge by turning the parts around...

Depending on how your printer is configured you may find that some of the threads are incorrectly sized after printing. if that is the case I would recommend drilling them to a 3mm diameter and using M3x4x4mm threaded inserts. there is a widened...

During printing the holes can sometimes be narrower. Therefore it may be necessary to drill them out. Take one thread and make a multiple knot at one end and then pull the thread through one hole. Place the top ring with the bottom side facing up. At...

# BMG V6/Dragon directdrive mount CR10/Ender3/TevoTornado Remixed from the most rugged, solid and best performing direct-drive mount, credits for the original design go to @VykkuF (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3747412) ### Features * Redesigned,...

How to make You can print all parts without support. Place on the build table as supplied. Circuitry is exactly as same as former thing named "Minimal Mechanical Digital Clock with Network Time Acquisition", https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4931539...

The other must have mod is the welding mask, I was able to unsnap some joints on a $10 mask and 'thread' it through the existing holder, then just use the top Velcro strap to attach to the front headband, better than a printed attachment - takes all...

Duplicate and mirror the mount and print the 2 mounts. 12/18 update: made a servo mount adapter that lets you move the servo back to the stock battery tray location. use the stock M3x8 screws. you'll need an M3 (3mm) threaded rod to extend the...

It is though that below the ice in the surface it is a liquid water ocean, and it was early speculated that this ocean could hold life, with the geotermal heating from the tidal interactions with Jupiter and the other Galilean Moons (Io, Ganymede and...

This resulted in wasted project time as it was a 32 hour print. Therefore, I started thinking: could I turn this into some kind of jam sensor? The answer is yes, you can. So I set out on my mission to upgrade the Filament Bot. First let me say, my...

It's also very easy to print with. Use the photos for reference of my assembly description. Motor mounting Cut a piece of thin double adhesive tape about 5x5mm in size. Stick the tape to the inside of the motor holder on the frame. (See picture) ...

Here's a list of supplies required for building the frame: * M3 Bolts (16) 50mm, (8) 25mm, and (10) 15mm screws for electronics * A large quantity of ABS materials * Patience For electronic components, you'll need: * Any generation of APM with an...

Print instructions: - AVOID PLA !!!!! - Use ASA or ABS for the mounting plate, I think PETG can be no-go if you has high temperatures in your case - Fan top, plates, etc… can be PETG - Use supports un fan top. - I put some antiwarping tabs on...

... Done with Base Save as Part (*.prt) And as STL If you want to print later. The top screw Again start with a hexagon 2.5 wide 0.5 tall. Extruded base, make a circle in the middle 1.5 wide 1.7 long (This way you can be sure it screws in all the way).

A single support (base + 2 side panels) and a nut can be printed for each spool and the spool would only be changed by releasing the wing nuts so the spool screw would not have to be removed. It'll need: -2 bearings 628 / 6-2Z (13x6x5)mm -100mm...

Just follow these three steps: 1st step: Print the most used* clip: clip_0_0.stl 2nd step: Select the clip_X_Y.stl with X > 0 for wider clip Select the clip_X_Y.stl with X 3nd step: Select the clip_X_Y.stl with Y > 0 for higher clip Select the...

... fan in place of the current IEC inlet. Print Settings Printer Brand: SeeMeCNC Printer: Rostock MAX v2 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.3mm Infill: 0.2 Notes: Three perimeters helps ensure the inserts have a good amount of material to bite into!

* Insert M3 nut into the inset on the top left front of the printed carriage. * Install motor and attach to breakout board * Connect X limit switch to breakout board Cable Chain: * Remove the right side cable chain mount link, then cut out the...

Thicker panels and prints good now in 1/25th scale *UPDATE: 10/09/21* Uploaded a revised truck bed, this time with wall supports, Rev B *UPDATE: 10/06/21* Revised the truck bed, made the walls a little thicker and smoother, Rev A for both Pro Street...

I also added a small electrolytic capacitor to stabilize the power to the ESP32 to prevent low power brownouts, 47uf / 50vdc - More than a than...

Não sei sobre a compatibilidade com bloco e bico stock.O Bloco deve ser relacionado 180 graus para ficar mais afastado do BLtouch.Dependendo do tamanho do eixo do motor, será necessário cortar um pequeno pedaço do eixo.Print Settings - As mesmas...

Migrating from thingiversehttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4387788 Adapter to connect a removable 150mm flexible duck to a 250mm Ceiling Extractor to remove Solder / Flux fume.designed to be printed on a CR-10S PRO , so a 300X300 bed...

Hardware needed: 18x M3x8 (or longer) bolts 18x M3 nut 1x M8 threaded rod for spools (length 172mm when fixed midway of box height) 2x M8 nuts and some washers as spacers between spools 2x Pneumatic air quick release fitting with 6mm diameter thread...

Hello.I need to “repair” my 1080Ti fans because they started to make some weird noises and low the rpms, temperatures go higer, and… why no temperature and noise reduction upgrade ?First I want say the photos are of the first functional prototype,...