3d print glasses holder

Well I am just to lazy to print twice ;-), of course you can arrange all the “Text plates” and all the “cableTie” parts on a separate buildplate and go from there, that is your choice.Important; for the “Cabletie” Parts, due to sometimes small...

I use resin to print it myself due to the higher precision. If you own a soldering iron you can also solder one of the poles of the motor to the case itself and straight connect it to the rca-connector like I did in the photos attached. (photos to...

and post some makes if you use these it lets me know I'm not wasting my time uploading my designs and if you like what you see check out more of my lures at https://www.theneverendingprojectslist.com/ Print Settings Printer Brand: MakerGear Printer: ...

This collection is a curated list for the Gridfinity system that includes Structural prints and common applications. The collection excludes any designs for unique tools or vanity items. ...Please like/favorite the original posts</p><p>If you are...

I figured out the airflow issues and designed this print as one of many modifications I made. Since the case isn't terribly efficient at exchanging ambient air, I created this CPU shroud to prevent hot air from recirculating back into the heatsink. ...I...

Buck Converter (to power my 12v cooling fans) Order of Operations !!!CAREFUL When you are done printing and are removing supports, make sure to be very careful on the Mainboard side. There is a 5th screw that is buried in the support material so...

So I like to print a test piece before committing to anything big or sensitive. I find that making a piece of OS-Railway track using whatever filament is intended for the project is usually enough to warm up the bed and predict if the printer can be...

UNC 1/4 20 - http://ali.pub/4kpo3g I use high-speed epoxy to fix the screw and handle AB Glue Epoxy - http://ali.pub/4hvg7o The elastic that is yellow in the picture is a TPU filament - http://ali.pub/4kpplb I printed a knob from PLA filament -...

This design fits on a Prusa i3 MK3 bed.Note: Please only attempt this if you already have some experience with soldering, wiring and electronics in general.Note: Some ATX PSU's may be too deep for this design so if your PSU is over 135mm deep it may...

The screws go through the mounts (print off Y Rail Mount A and B twice and bolt C onto the back of each) and the belt is zip tied to this. My tests show good hold and adjustability. There are also some for the X rail but they involve a new design for...

since printing orientations seemed to have a effect on this as well. when tolerances were getting to tight. and making these small lines is easy to do and make it so that you can remove some unwanted play in the parts in case you have some issues...

(For a 6x12 building, for example.) Note that the roof will take a lot of materials to print, but if you like the style, go for it! EDIT: Check out my new Ultimate Roof Building Kit to further enhance your Roof building options, supporting various...

Only a few parts are needed and it is easy to print, preferably in PETG.You can mount it in different ways, on a tripod, with a table clamp or simply with screws.I would still have to work a little on the software, but it works so far.The stepper...

Assembly Method: So we looked at what was out there and wanted to simplify current designs as much as possible, we also wanted to design for laser cutting so these can be mass produced. -Its laser cut so 100-1000 can be produced a day -We...

This design is intended to be a relatively affordable, simple and easy to print electronics project. Remix as required to add a secondary sensor, extra valves, etc. I have uploaded the most current Parasolid assembly file so feel free to dive into...

I haven't printed the version with the hole for the reset button, I can reach in the USB hole with a spudger and poke the button so its not essential for my current project. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hP2VRmHu4Q0 When I get round to making the...

This model was almost perfect, but when I printed one out, it turned out to be a bit chunkier than I really wanted. So, I figured I'd take my own shot at it and came up with this. My requirements were: * It had to match an authentic full-size...

I printed the tree sections in alternating green for a more varied look. You could group them in Tinker and make a single/twin mega model - love that Tinker feature! Support is required in places due to geometry, but it's very simple square profile...

(Print "FrontPanel_input_noSCART" instead of "FrontPanel_input") If you connect Component or VGA, you can use a SCART breakout to pass through audio in a clean way, without ever having to swap the plug on the back. Last, you'll need 8mm M3 hex bolts,...

I printed it with ABS plastic, but PLA or other materials should work fine as well. To ensure it is strong and not prone to breaking easily on my first prototype, I used 50% infill (and four-layer walls) and might use less if I build another one. I...

Make sure to print the models with minimal infill, - they do need to float after all. There are two main pieces in the kit which we add magnets to: the IgG (antibody) and the Ag (antigen) models and it is*really* important that we insert the magnets...

Note: Someone has mentioned the possibility of additional electromagnetic interference generated by the psu by removing the metal lid, so I may try to print this later in conductive filament. As of now, I have yet to experience any downsides of using...

The support piece in the D-pad space will punch out with a punch and hammer after printing.Just place the shell on something with free space under the D-pad area and punch the support piece. Wiring the 9-pin d-sub for Amiga, Atari, Kempston or SEGA...

You can also use DIN 933 / ISO 4014 or DIN 912 / ISO 4762 or something similar - OBI: around 0.5€[8x] M4 nuts - DIN 933 / ISO 4032 (B3a) or nyloc variant DIN 985 / ISO 10511 (B3b), any material however if you have a M4 tap then you don't need nuts -...

Note: This will decrease your print height slightly! The CR-10S Pro struggles even more than the CR-10 series when it comes to Z motors going out of sync on power off. This is due to the same design as the one used by hoegee, but it works perfectly...

Little material and time is required for printing. The "screws" and "nuts" can be pushed onto one another with a little force, the components are too small for a screw connection. I use the fan on the desk and another one to circulate air in a mold...

BOM:-Smart filament sensor BTT upgraded version-2x screw M3x10-7x M3 Heat Inserts Nut Heat (same in original )after print carefuly cut the X&nbsp;&nbsp;UPDATE: config:&nbsp;now add Gcode command for turn ON/OFF by: “SENSOR_ON” or “SENSOR_OFF”config...

... in Tinkercad. Some of the screen shots show artifacts on the models from the edits, but do not show up on the prints themselves.Also if anyone has a spare Ender 5 carriage plate, I would happily take it off your hands (message me with price).

... after days, or use a step-by-step motor or a properly controlled servo motor. I took advantage of the suggestion in the comments to widen the dial, so you can read the time well between 9 and 12, the result seems very good to me. Happy printing!

I first encountered the idea for this type of robot in a biomedical article, presented as a potential new candidate for exploring the human colon due to its simplicity and ability to navigate confined areas....