2011 frame 3d models

### BOTH `Z axis clip` varieties require disassembly/reassembly of the rear of the frame They do NOT "pop" in, you **MUST** slide them in by removing the rear rail. Although the `Z axis clip` variant works just fine and is as close to the `Tobi0892`...

I have the Printermods Y axis rail brackets and MGN9's for the Y travel (mounted outside the frame… they tell you to mount the rails on the inside, but that puts them in the way of other things). ...I have the Y end stop moved on the inside of the right...

Update: It looks like the KK2 Board is getting harder to find but the frame should work with most small controller boards. 17cm between motor shafts and 29cm from each propeller tip. 170g with 1000Mah battery 11-12min flight time. Assembled with...

Its unique VSlot extrusion profile system ensures smooth and silent operation, while its lightweight and strong frame provides excellent stability. One of the standout features of the Scalar S is its advanced SSR cover system, which offers enhanced...

The rescaled version is then loaded to Fusion360, where the base profile is extruded in negative direction -0.6 mm and the white parts inlcuding the frame are extruded to the positive direction +0.6 mm. Lastly I added colors to the faces of the sign...

Materials: - 2 600 mm x 12 mm smooth rods for y axis - 2 400 mm x 12 mm smooth rods for the x axis - 2 200 mm)x 12 mm smooth rods for the z axis - 2 600 mm x 8 mm 8 mm lead (2 mm pitch, 4 starts) lead screw for the y axis - 1 450 mm x 8 mm, 8 mm...

 The 10mm bearings are instead simply a friction fit. My classic Anet A8 is in the garage awaiting a steel frame upgrade, so I'm using my A8 Plus as a test bed for these upgrades.  The photo's I'm posting with this design are of my A8 Plus that is...

The sea frame pieces were rather large, and so in order to accomodate any smaller printers, they have each been split in half and labeled as parts “#A” and “#B”. These halves can be kept separate if desired, although my recommendation is that they be...

The door furniture is secured with Flathead M3 12mm bolts and nylocs and additional PVC angle has been used to provide a lower door frame.If you wish to relocate your power supply unit external to the enclosure, then see the sister project [ here...

... easier to build but it requires a little different elements. When I'll finish with description of basic sensor I'll create description for V3 and then V4 (It's special version for Tatara frame, it's mounted on back of X carriage and it's only 5mm)

The Gamma Mods are designed to increase the overall reach of the OWI-535 Robotic Arm Edge by approximately 22.5 cm.Some of these parts require cutting part of the OWI-535 frame, which is a non reversible. Be certain you want to do these modifications...

NOMENCLATURE Engine support : 7 x CHC DIN 912 M3x30 screw 1 x M3 Hex Nut 2 x 608RS ball bearings 2 x M8x20 spacers (aluminum profile see plan) 1 x GT2 gear 20 teeth M5 1 x K40_Bed_Motor.stl 1 x K40_Bed_Cover_Motor.stl 1 x K40_Bed_Motor.dxf 1 x NEMA...

(Provided is for 11mm heatsink, but it can be easily modified)Post-Printing:The thermal pad needs to be cut out to fit into the red frame. The dimenzions are 50x50mm with 4mm sqares cut off in the corners. The thermal pad is then fixed between the...

Slide the assembled top part containing the pcb into the frame first, then slide it down and into the broad hole, the bottom part provides 9. Add a 12 Ohm resistor to the red LED's wire. Red is rated ~2.2V DC, Blue and Green ~3.3V DC each 10. VCC...

Used screws, nuts and washers: Extruder: 3x M3x35mm (original) RunOut sensor: 2x M3x16mm (original) 2x M3 hammer nuts Frame mounting: 4x M5x20mm 4x hammer nuts M5 4x washer M5 Connection: 4x countersunk screw M3x14mm 4x self-locking M3 4x washer M3...

This model is in proportion to my Dilbert series. Enjoy! Print instructionsRafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Resolution: .2 mm Infill: 10% Notes: See notes below for helpful printing and assembly instructions Building the Model Colors (there are no...

Please only attempt this if you are very experienced in 3d printer frame upgrades and modifications. Everything except the Z endstop will print without support. ...Add heatset inserts to the ballscrew mounts and X motor and idler pieces as needed, also...

Either way, use two PC4-M10 Bowden tube bolt-on connectors (Amazon or Aliexpress) to hold and feed the 4mm (2mm internal) PTFE tubing used to guide the filament from the opening of the gravity-trip arm to the printer or other frame. The tube can...

Really like the wheel from TheSloppyApprentice's Watermill and was looking for ways to hold it besides that large frame in the source.So I could make it stand in a bassin or hang under some opening where water is dropping off.So here are 2...

The only problem I have had, is when doing a Z calibration and the extruder moves to the top of the frame, the filament will push up into the container and can slip over the edge of a full filament spool. This can be prevented by holding the filament...

Which is what I did; and after a few iterations (see picture gallery - black one is original) I've obtained a surprisingly comfy and robust saddle which at least feels much better that the steel-framed real thing. I tested the final version a few...

If you use the shortened fan ducts with V6 nozzles, check if some part of the hotend collides with the plastic frame of the buildplate clip on the centre back when doing a bed leveling during measurement of the contact point in the back. You might...

Now tighten the screws and the roller guides, the X-axis should now run parallel to the front edge of the frame and move easily in the Y-direction. Mount the new (printed) pulley blocks at the top of the corners and insert the belt guides there. Put...

The chain connector that is attached to the frame is held in place with the top screw that mounts the Y-Axis stepper to the acrylic, as can be seen in the photos. The chain connector that is attached to the bed simply slips over the wiring connector...

I mounted the filament runout sensor to the top of my 3D printer's frame, right under the spool, using t-nuts and bolts. You can also use zip ties for a secure hold. Typically, runout sensors are positioned much closer to the extruder for minimal...

So in short: 3D printed parts screws/M3 bolts and nuts glue (5 minute epoxy) building materials (example: wood: 40*40 mm (main frame, rollers), 10*10 mm (reed and front/back stick, 10*40 mm (front/back rests) threaded rods (M10, M12 or M16)...

The main part of the bow (the riser) is a relatively common part when new but over time has worn away leaving only traces of the pattern and much of the aluminum frame underneath showing through. The grip has been modified and fixed during its life,...

This Auto Off system was designed and integrated to my Creality Ender 3 V2 printer but will probably suite all Ender 3 family printers as well as similar open frame printers from different manufacturers. The system is an external add-on, there's no...

If you want to build the clock as shown you will need the following parts in addition to the above: 2x printed STL Back-Mounting-Frame 1x printed STL ArdNano-Case 1x printed STL Stands This will fit an Arduino Nano or Pro Mini and a small DS3231...

This one is simpler to solve because of the 2 large pieces having only one way to fit in the frame. Individual Pieces are titled sxpx.stl where s means series, followed by the number, and p means piece, followed by the number again. There are...